bil.dun

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About bil.dun

  • Rank
    Reader (10+ posts)
  • Birthday 09/01/1957

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    1999 deville
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southern Vermont
  1. HELP! I purchased a 1988 Brougham, low mileage great shape, all the good stuff....it came with a VSS security system, installed by the dealer. I thought it was disabled/ disconnected, HOWEVER, I went to start it today, and the starter would not engage, and, to my dismay, I noticed the system keypad light was blinking....OH NO! So, I know there have been MANY problems with security systems with other cars and owners, but I can't seem to find any posts or forums on this particular aftermarket system....any help from you guys on this would be G R E A T L Y appreciated, or guide me to a source of info on this subject. Thanks so much, Bill
  2. I wondered if you guys could clue me in on something....before I had this trouble, I bought the car knowing that it would need new belts, as it squealed like a you know what when first started, then after a short while, it would stop squealing, rev up a little, and run smooth and quiet. Now after this scenario, the squealing is worse, and it seems as though maybe a pulley driven component is causing the belt to squeal, until it decides to turn freely, and the component I suspect, is to the left of the AC compressor, just slightly above it (looking from the front of the engine, of course). Is that the "air pump"? And would that cause the belts to squeal, until it started operating properly, and also cause the engine to miss? I haven't taken a compression reading on the cylinder that the mechanic says has no compression, but I will in the morning. I'm not so sure the GM mechanic was 100% honest in his "diagnosis", as he had a personal interest in the car, and basically offered me a few hundred dollars for it....thank God I'm not that stupid...Any ideas? Is there an "air pump in this engine? Thanks for your replies, Bill
  3. Thank you so much for your input, O C T .....I may not be able to find the GM product, but can't wait to give it or something like it a try. I'll post the results. You know, I think the old girl is growing on me, I've briefly considered selling my '99 Deville in near pristine condition, 51k miles, to pay for the repairs on this old gal! It seems totally crazy, but, I guess that's what us old car buffs do sometimes...if you want to view the car, you can see it listed on ebay for a few more days, I just wanted to see what kind of interest it brought, I may just take it off and keep it ( especially if the sticking valve clears up) Thanks again, Bill
  4. Hi, thank you for your response...you worked on the GM assembly line? What could be cooler than that, seriously! But anyway, I'm having the old girl towed home today, and in bits and pieces will start removing all that's in the way of the valve cover, remove it, start her up, and see if a valve(s) is sticking, hopefully not broken......is there a product you could recommend that will free up that valve? I've seen seafoam being slowly poured into the carb on online videos, and marvel mystery oil being used as well. It seems that if you pour it in slowly, with the engine running, it could cause a fire...but it did seem to work in the videos. If one were to research the 1987 Brougham, it does indicate that they used an olds 307 this year, and a chevy 305 as well, it could be determined which engine you had by the VIN....mine is an olds 307, according to the engine code. Any more advice from you and other readers would be GREATLY appreciated !! My last resort, is to sell her for parts, or repair, at a huge $ loss for me, as well as losing my sweet old "87...Thanks again, Bill
  5. Hi Guys, back again for some advice.....I just purchased an '87 Brougham, really nice shape, it may have only 29k miles, but I'm unable to determine if that's accurate. The car has sat unused for much of it's life. I know often that's a big red flag, but it ran well, drove good, and I couldn't resist. What my problem is, is that I drove it about 200 trouble free miles, excluding the shrieking fan belts, which I've ordered online to replace. Started right up, idled smoothly, braked well. I had the oil changed, and added i can of seafoam to the tank. I drove about 15 miles, got it on the highway to help burn out all the carbon and junk, and before leaving the highway exit, it started running rough, I got off the highway, and it was really running rough with a very rich smelling exhaust. I brought it to the local GM dealer, they looked at it the next day, and came back with no compression on the #6 cylinder.....all others were fine. The diagnosis was broken valves on that cylinder, and was told that was a common problem on these 307's, and the mechanics opinion was these engines were junk, and the Chevy 305 was a much better engine. I was quoted $500 just to tear apart enough to ascertain this is the problem, and about $2000 / upwards to repair. Needless to say, it made me sick, I lost some sleep, and also the mechanic offered me $700 for this nice car. So after several days of thinking this over, I'm thinking of selling the car for parts or fix, but wondered, what if it's only a sticking intake and/or exhaust valve, and would I dare get into the engine myself, and remove tons of wires, brackets, hoses, and whatnot, remove the valve cover, and check for sticking valves? I'm sure some of you guys have experienced this problem! Any advice? I really do like this car, it's in my mind the CLASSIC Caddy, and I would like to keep it, I just can't afford to sink a fortune into it....I know that's every car lovers dilemma...any advice or input would be greatly appreciated, I'm having it towed back to my house in a few days. Thanks, Bill
  6. i guess I'm going to answer my own post here, I actually found the above mentioned topic, for all to read under " 1999 deville campaign # 99086"...it gives a lot of info as to which VIN's were in question. Bill in VT
  7. Thanks again guys for all your help...along the same topic, I do believe I read somewhere, that in 1999 some of the N* engines had the bolt holes drilled too deep, or something along the lines of bolt or bolt hole issues....and that some engines had the defect, and others may not have it. It was noted that you could determine if you had one of the engines in question by the VIN #.....any input on that topic? Thanks in advance for any more advice.....I'm sure it could benefit other readers as well. Bill in VT
  8. Hey thanks again guys for your help. I looked at a '99 Deville today, in good shape, 97k miles, and a known head gasket problem. The owner has driven this car for 6 years now, with no trouble, and one day, had an overheat. Had it towed to the mechanic, and was told it was the head gasket....it would be OK to drive it around town, just not up steep hills on the highway. So he's selling it for $400...?! I started the car, let it sit while we talked, and after 15 minutes, the temp never exceeded 197 degrees. And still not, after a half hour. Cooling fans were on. The exhaust smelt fine, but it did smell of exhaust fumes in the coolant overflow tank (I think). I asked him if he ever changed the coolant..answer- no. I asked him if he used high test or regular- answer, always regular. Well, what do you know...in my opinion that's what caused his problems. So my question is, the car never ran hot while idling ( I thought it would) and I wondered if any of you guys have used a product called "steel seal"..it claims to be a breakthrough product, proven over 10 years, and they even have a N* formula....hmmm...sounds good to me. I know other products are a waste of time, but this one seems to have potential. I would buy the car for , I hate to say, beater, or for my 15 year old son to tinker with. The brand new tires and chrome rims alone are worth more than $400....There are many more good trim parts, non rusted doors, interior parts, etc. So, whaddaya think? Any input would be greatly appreciated! Even if you think I'm crazy ( or not) please let me know! Thanks in advance, Bill in VT
  9. Cool...so to speak! Thanks for that in depth response....in answer to your question, I've had my '99 Deville for 2 years now, and no problems. ( Bought it at 36k) I keep an eye on the temp from time to time, in hot weather. It is just as it should be, at 196 degrees avg., but of course will climb to 221 or so (during hot weather, climbing steep hills in VT), and then the cooling fans kick on, reducing the temp to where it should be. So all looks good, so far. Maybe I don't need to be so nervous, but what can I say? It's white, white vinyl top, dark blue interior, lots of options for the year....it really drives like new. At 50k I just had the front brakes done, they were original, never touched. Next, the rear brakes. Believe it or not, the battery is original, no kidding! It has the date code stamped right on it! It starts in the coldest temps, never gives out. Any way, thanks again, all you guys (and gals) are great, I love this forum, and, any more input would be greatly appreciated! Bill in VT
  10. Thanks to both of you guys for your input. Rockfangd, you say you have 2 '97's that were bad when you bought them....did you do the head gasket and or bolt repair, or are they driveable as is? Mine is a '99 Deville, now with 50k miles, pretty much mint, very nice car. But I'm worried about the future, and that bolt problem, is there anything that can be done (other than coolant changes) to prevent a breakdown in the future, such as longer bolts, or whatever? And currently, I'm considering purchasing a 1 owner low mileage "96 Deville, grey metallic/ cream, with a painted roof, lots of options, basically a cream puff....I just seem to recall someone stating the '96's had almost no issues as opposed to the '97- 01's. Thanks in advance, Bill in VT
  11. Hi again, I tried to find a previous post regarding this specific subject, and came up with 0 answers, it may have been discussed before.....so here goes. I am wondering if anyone knows if there are certain years that the 4.6 Northstar didn't have the headgasket/ bolt problem, it seems to be more prevalent in the '97 to '01 engines, (from what I've read). I thought I heard or read somewhere that the '96 Northstar had fewer if no problems with the above issue, is that true? Also, I do believe that the Northstar of any year was an awesome engine...my opinion is that owners of these Cads either did not regularly use high test and switched to regular gas as the price went through the roof during those questionable years,which over time can cause problems, (read the owners manual!) as well as did not keep the cooling system up to date with coolant changes on a regular basis. And as they sat in sweltering heat, in traffic, with the AC cranked, the old acid coolant did it's damage and then they blamed the engine design. I could be wrong, I was once before (?!). Any input on this, from you guys, who are way more knowledgeable, and experienced than I? Thanks a million for any input, this is a great forum, Bill in VT
  12. Thanks for your response barczy01....I'll have to look into the coolant pipes you're talking about. It looks like a decent car, has a few really cool things I like, one being the "Gold Bose" CD stereo and speakers, the cloth roof looks really elegant on this one, among other things. I guess I need to decide quickly, and make up my mind.....any other input from you guys who own or have owned one of these would be greatly appreciated! I'm a little nervous about travelling all that way and being disappointed...Bill in VT
  13. Hey guys, back again....so there's a '93 sixty special for sale that I'm very interested in. 74k miles, nice shape, 2 owners, runs good, but a/c, heat, and radio do not work. Could be a simple fix, maybe not. But the car is beautiful, owner must sell, and I may wind up paying $1500 for it, but it's 1200 miles away, I would need to fly there, pick it up, and drive it back home. Do you guys think I may be crazy, or do ya'all think I should give it a shot? I've been assured it's mechanically well maintained, and loved, but it's owner is no longer able to drive it, it has sat nearly idle for a few years, except for an occasional start up and drive. It's "driving" me crazy, I really want this car! Any advice would be appreciated...I definitely have Caddy fever....Thanks, Bill in VT
  14. Hi again, the problem was at the sway bar itself, the tapered stud didn't seem to want to be "pressed" into the opening properly. But I think the links can be installed in either direction, though, so I think the problem is that one of the "ball studs" was somewhat oversized...manufacturing oversight? The AC Delco part seemed to fit properly. I don't always trust these aftermarket "ACME" brands anyway. (Although it did come with grease fittings, seems like a good idea) Thanks for your input rockfangd!
  15. Sorry, stupid me, actually it was the STABILIZER LINKS I replaced, not the Bushings.....Thanks! Bill