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Everything posted by bil.dun

  1. Thank you. So, what happened was the glue holding the mirror to the backing plate was very dry, and the mirror easily separated from the backing. So, I cleaned up the surfaces, installed the backing plate to the motor, with several loud clicks (glad the mirror wasn't attached) and checked for proper movement, looked good, then connected the two spade lugs, and dimmer plug, reattached the mirror with silicone glue, and it works perfect! So thanks much for your help, I just wonder now that these dimming mirrors are no longer made, and are hard to find in good shape- should I buy another for a f
  2. Rockfangd, I just rec'd my replacement driver's side mirror- hard to find. So I can use the same method to install it as the pass side, but I need to be a lot more careful, so as not to mess up the liquid inside the dimming mirror- any hints? I read somewhere about using a block of wood to push the mirror back into place....again, any hints? Thank you! Bill
  3. Got it!!! You are extremely helpful....I can't thank you enough. Now that it's reinstalled, I need to tackle the driver's side, with a heated and darkening mirror, as mine is almost black. It should work out fine, I'll keep you posted. Thanks again! Bill in VT
  4. rockfangd, got the assembly apart, nothing broken, I really need your help in reinstallation.....see if this works * As it happens, it won't allow me to upload just 1 pic....I don't know what to do now.....it won't snap back into place. Bill in VT
  5. Yes, it does have memory, and tilt on backup. I'm a little more confident now, so today I'm going to give it a try, will keep you posted. Thanks!
  6. Thanks, rockfangd....I can't post a pic until I get the assembly removed from the housing. My main concern is, if I "pull" out the mirror and backing with some force, but carefully, as shown in some videos, (of 2000 and later models) will I risk breaking any mechanical parts? Then once it IS out, I think I can figure out the rest....or, if I can't figure it out, I'll post the pic of the unit. Have you tilted the mirror, and then pulled out the unit? Thanks! Bill in VT
  7. I know this question has been raised before...however I cannot seem to find a clear answer, so here goes. On my 1999 Deville, the passenger side mirror has broken, and can still be used, but the backing plate has become detached from the motor ( 2 shafts ). It is still connected at the pivot point, however. So, my question is, is it possible to force the backing plate assembly off, without breaking any attachments? There are NO clear illustrations of what the unit looks like, when disassembled....only 2000 and later. and how can I "refasten" the mirror assembly to the motor? Any help or redire
  8. Hey guys, interesting topic....I wondered if you guys could give some input on a 1984 Seville, in near mint condition, but in need of an engine upgrade. What, if anything, can be done to boost the power of the old 4.1l, or can it be replaced with a much better 4.5l, 4.9l, or a 307 Olds engine? Any input would be helpful, if this needs to be reposted somewhere else, great, but I'd like some help! Thanks Bill in VT
  9. Thanks guys. I know it doesn't make a lot of sense ( the spray ) but it did work sometimes for a few hours, sometimes overnight. Rockfangd, yes even when the doors were opened, the accessories would still work. But oddly, and truthfully, the condition has stopped for several weeks now. My son wanted to mention, that he did use the car often to jumpstart his '85 Corvette ( another project ). Thanks for all your help everybody! I do have another question, about replacing a 4.1l in a Seville, with a different engine, will post soon. Bill
  10. Just a very late update....we have disconnected the remote start, and still have problems with the ignition remaining in the "ACC" mode, even with no key present. So, my son would disconnect the battery overnight (I know, not good) Just another note, we did spray some CDC electrical cleaner into the ignition cylinder, which seemed to help, temporarily. But somehow, the condition has "fixed itself", now the car seems to start and run as normal...(yikes!) Thanks for all your help, guys...
  11. OK, thanks guys, that could be the problem....so, we'll try to figure out how to disconnect the remote start system, and see what happens. Of course I'll keep y'all posted on what we find. Thanks!!! Bill in VT
  12. Thanks you guys...to be more specific 1) The car has an aftermarket remote start; seems to work fine up to this point. 2) Oddly, 2 nights ago, the car started ITSELF twice during the night! The next morning the battery was flat DEAD. 3) We jump started the car, drove for an hour, and when we returned home, it started fine. 4) HOWEVER, I did notice the radio stayed ON, even after turning off the ignition, AND removing the key, and yes, also after opening the doors! So, I found that with no key, the windows operate, W/S wipers, radio, but NOT the dash, or blower fan, so basically it acts as if i
  13. Can you guys please direct me to ignition switch problems? My problem is suddenly all my accessories work with the key in run/start position, but ALSO when the ignition is OFF and the key is removed, and yes, even after the doors are opened...! Thanks for any help, or redirection, if necessary Bill in VT
  14. Greetings again, C I.....I'm looking at purchasing a 1990 Coupe DeVille, equipped as the "Palm Springs" edition......it has the Phaeton roof, stainless lower body trim panels, two-tone leather seats trimmed w/white roping, and two tone door panels, Bose sound system (or what's left of it), C C grill, and maybe a few other add-ons. Cool looking car! But in need of a lot of TLC, she runs out nice though....any of you guys have any input or info on this model, or anyone that owns one? I'd really like to buy it, she might be a potential money pit, but very worthy of restoration. Thanks for any
  15. Hello out there! I'm looking at a few 2004-2008 SRX suv's, and have heard some good and some bad things about them. I am currently looking at a 2006, 2wd, 3.6 V-6. Seems pretty nice and the price is right, but has anyone out there any input on how good these engines are, and how good are the 2 wheel drives in snow? Or the 4 wheel drives? Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Bill
  16. Hi OldCadtech, thanks for your reply....the previous owner is, you guessed it, deceased. His son, who sold me the Cad, a really nice guy, has no info on the system or code, I need some kind of a manual for it, I think it's the VSS 100 keypad system. It has ran fine for two weeks now, I thought it was disabled, ( the siren is disconnected) but apparently not, as it is now steadily blinking....I'll try to contact a locksmith/ alarm company, maybe even GM. If I cant get anywhere with that route, I guess I'll try to squeeze under the car, and try to find that splice to the starter, or, do you know
  17. HELP! I purchased a 1988 Brougham, low mileage great shape, all the good stuff....it came with a VSS security system, installed by the dealer. I thought it was disabled/ disconnected, HOWEVER, I went to start it today, and the starter would not engage, and, to my dismay, I noticed the system keypad light was blinking....OH NO! So, I know there have been MANY problems with security systems with other cars and owners, but I can't seem to find any posts or forums on this particular aftermarket system....any help from you guys on this would be G R E A T L Y appreciated, or guide me to a source of
  18. I wondered if you guys could clue me in on something....before I had this trouble, I bought the car knowing that it would need new belts, as it squealed like a you know what when first started, then after a short while, it would stop squealing, rev up a little, and run smooth and quiet. Now after this scenario, the squealing is worse, and it seems as though maybe a pulley driven component is causing the belt to squeal, until it decides to turn freely, and the component I suspect, is to the left of the AC compressor, just slightly above it (looking from the front of the engine, of course). Is
  19. Thank you so much for your input, O C T .....I may not be able to find the GM product, but can't wait to give it or something like it a try. I'll post the results. You know, I think the old girl is growing on me, I've briefly considered selling my '99 Deville in near pristine condition, 51k miles, to pay for the repairs on this old gal! It seems totally crazy, but, I guess that's what us old car buffs do sometimes...if you want to view the car, you can see it listed on ebay for a few more days, I just wanted to see what kind of interest it brought, I may just take it off and keep it ( especia
  20. Hi, thank you for your response...you worked on the GM assembly line? What could be cooler than that, seriously! But anyway, I'm having the old girl towed home today, and in bits and pieces will start removing all that's in the way of the valve cover, remove it, start her up, and see if a valve(s) is sticking, hopefully not broken......is there a product you could recommend that will free up that valve? I've seen seafoam being slowly poured into the carb on online videos, and marvel mystery oil being used as well. It seems that if you pour it in slowly, with the engine running, it could caus
  21. Hi Guys, back again for some advice.....I just purchased an '87 Brougham, really nice shape, it may have only 29k miles, but I'm unable to determine if that's accurate. The car has sat unused for much of it's life. I know often that's a big red flag, but it ran well, drove good, and I couldn't resist. What my problem is, is that I drove it about 200 trouble free miles, excluding the shrieking fan belts, which I've ordered online to replace. Started right up, idled smoothly, braked well. I had the oil changed, and added i can of seafoam to the tank. I drove about 15 miles, got it on the highway
  22. i guess I'm going to answer my own post here, I actually found the above mentioned topic, for all to read under " 1999 deville campaign # 99086"...it gives a lot of info as to which VIN's were in question. Bill in VT
  23. Thanks again guys for all your help...along the same topic, I do believe I read somewhere, that in 1999 some of the N* engines had the bolt holes drilled too deep, or something along the lines of bolt or bolt hole issues....and that some engines had the defect, and others may not have it. It was noted that you could determine if you had one of the engines in question by the VIN #.....any input on that topic? Thanks in advance for any more advice.....I'm sure it could benefit other readers as well. Bill in VT
  24. Hey thanks again guys for your help. I looked at a '99 Deville today, in good shape, 97k miles, and a known head gasket problem. The owner has driven this car for 6 years now, with no trouble, and one day, had an overheat. Had it towed to the mechanic, and was told it was the head gasket....it would be OK to drive it around town, just not up steep hills on the highway. So he's selling it for $400...?! I started the car, let it sit while we talked, and after 15 minutes, the temp never exceeded 197 degrees. And still not, after a half hour. Cooling fans were on. The exhaust smelt fine, but it d
  25. Cool...so to speak! Thanks for that in depth response....in answer to your question, I've had my '99 Deville for 2 years now, and no problems. ( Bought it at 36k) I keep an eye on the temp from time to time, in hot weather. It is just as it should be, at 196 degrees avg., but of course will climb to 221 or so (during hot weather, climbing steep hills in VT), and then the cooling fans kick on, reducing the temp to where it should be. So all looks good, so far. Maybe I don't need to be so nervous, but what can I say? It's white, white vinyl top, dark blue interior, lots of options for the yea
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