Chris

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About Chris

  • Rank
    Enthusiast (250+ posts)

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    '07 DTS
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    walsh_online@hotmail.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Etobicoke, Ontario

Recent Profile Visitors

3,934 profile views
  1. Awesome, congrats on the new ride! When are we getting photos? I loved my '02 SLS though it had bad tranny seals and never shifted in and out of drive properly.
  2. It doesn't seem to be, nothing prevents it from rotating on the shaft which confused me as to how this thing actually works! Thanks, it does look exactly like this (even the part number on the arm!). I looked for a replacement, but they all look different (similar to what Logan posted), though they appear to be a direct replacement... I tried looking up 09-11 DTS parts, and still get the other style. Maybe this failed in the past and was replaced with the newer OEM style.
  3. Thanks for the replies! The sensor works fine, but needs to be secured to the shaft. I noticed there is an indent for a small snap ring, so I've ordered a pack of various sizes. For now - and for the past month - I've had a zip tie preventing the arm from falling off the shaft. Worst case scenario, it comes off and air suspension inflates all the way (this makes the car really squirrely on offramps, but is very noticeable when checking mirrors). I'll post back the proper snap ring size when I change over to summer tires and have a chance to fix this.
  4. Hello, On the weekend, I was brushing snow off my DTS and heard a pump running. I originally thought it was the fuel pump but it ran much longer than the fuel pump normally runs. Later, I noticed that the back of the car was jacked way up in the air. Upon closer inspection, I found that the arm connected to the LCA was disconnected from the ride control sensor. See photos below. I set it back in place, and after moving the car, the ride height is back to normal. I'd like to re-attach the arm to the sensor, but I can't figure out how the sensor works. There doesn't seem to be any moving parts on the sensor - the shaft doesn't rotate and I can't see any other way for it to read data (magnet?). I've attached a few photos taken from the driver's side rear wheel well, behind the front of the tire: How can I attach this such that it will operate properly and not just fall off again? Thanks for your help!!
  5. There was always an issue with the transmission which likely tore the mount (it was very harsh shifting from P to R to N to D), the second time it was replaced for free under warranty. Rust is fairly common on vehicles here, especially since they switched from spreading salt to a brine solution in the winter. I work at a utility and lately we've been finding that steel service bodies are showing rust after their first winter! I think I will try undercoating my 'new' car before it sees it's first Canadian winter (previous owner lived in Florida during the winter)
  6. Hi BodybyFisher - Unfortunately I can't edit my original post to clarify, but each price includes ALL maintenance/repairs/licensing costs for that year. I've only mentioned the biggest ticket items. For example, the total cost for 2013 is listed at $543 and I mentioned IAC... the IAC cost $246 and I installed myself. Other costs (coolant, oil, throttle body cleaner, licensing, washer fluid etc.) totaled another approx. $300, bringing the total to $543. Also keep in mind that all prices are Canadian dollars, so you should multiply by approximately 0.75 to get USD pricing. I did most work myself, remaining work done at independent shops. Only the front engine mount was done at a dealership, and that was only because it was cheaper to leave the car at the dealership and pay for the work than it would have been to pay for parking while I was visiting Chicago!
  7. Hi Everyone, I did a cost breakdown when I replaced my 1993 STS ( http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?/topic/37755-my-93-cadillac-sts-rip-1992-2011/ ) and thought I'd post one similar for my 2002 SLS. Unfortunately, I sold this car for scrap as well - the frame was rotting so I couldn't (conscionably) sell it as a roadworthy car. I tried selling it as a parts car but no takers. Due to lack of parking I had to get rid of it quickly. I began driving the car in March 2011 and stopped driving it in September 2016. All prices are in Canadian dollars. Capital Costs Purchase price (all-in, on the road) = $7439 Sell price (scrap) = $300, sold September 2016. Average depreciation = $1338/year Maintenance/Repairs/Licensing – average $948/year Breakdown by year, including major costs (odometer reading at beginning of year): 2011 – 96850km - $681 – Front motor mount, wheel balancing 2012 – 113507km - $1441 – Front motor mount (again), rear motor mount, outer tie rod (left), sand and re-paint rear quarter panels (rust starting) 2013 – 129339km - $543 – IAC valve 2014 – 145840km - $1377 – Intake plenum, spark plugs & boots, all brake calipers, rotors & pads, outer rie rod (right) 2015 – 161775km - $962 – Replace fuel lines, HVAC blower 2016 – 183950km - $48.62 – Nothing major Driving – Owned car for 1996 days (~5.5 years) Over that time, I drove 94,555km and burned 11,018L of fuel. This equates to 20.185mpg. My average cost of fuel was $1.15/L, so fuel cost was $0.13417 per km. The ignition was on for 1635.3 hours, representing an average of 49 minutes per day and an average speed of 57.8km/h when ignition on. Cost per KM Capital - $7139/94555 = $0.07550/km Maintenance - $5055/94555 = $0.05346/km Fuel - $0.13417/km Total cost per KM = $0.26313/km + insurance Some photos of the car at the time I sold it: (body was in great shape aside from rust beginning to re-form on the rear quarter panels) Rotting Frame: Body: The last time I saw it :
  8. The new brake light arrived today. I swapped them (wow that was fast & easy) and the new one works great. The date sticker on the faulty one indicated a January 2007 build date so I assume it was the original unit. Out of interest, the new one had a build date of November 2015. Thanks again for everyone's feedback - definitely made me more comfortable spending $300cad on an LED strip
  9. I have a 12V DC external power source and hooked it up to the CMHSL. Nothing. I've ordered a new unit and surprisingly, prices are much cheaper up in Canada for once ($339cad is the standard price at stores or $295cad including shipping at dealership online stores) whereas I was quoted over $300usd by gmotors.com and on ebay. Thanks again for the replies and interesting to read some of the conversation!
  10. Thanks for all the replies! I'm glad that the brake lights aren't supposed to operate with the ignition in the off position! Jim - Just to clarify, I disconnected the stop light and measured voltage across the connector. With the brake pedal released, there is 0V, with the pedal depressed, there is 14.5V. Based on that, I don't believe there is any problem with the ground, and that there is an internal issue with the CMHSL.
  11. The third brake light doesnt work on my 'new' 2007 DTS . The voltage at the CMHSL is approximately 14.5V when the ignition is on and the brakes are depressed. Is this the normal voltage? I just want to make rule out electrical issues before replacing the CMHSL. I also noticed during testing that the brake lights don't light up with the ignition off and brake pedal depressed. Is this normal? Thanks... photos of the new ride to come...
  12. Thanks for the reply - but don't welcome me, I've been around longer than you! Life has gotten busy and my car has been great so I haven't been on as much lately. After seeing the car, I can see it would be major work to remove the top. I actually think it looks good, but I'm a bit concerned about how it will hold up through the winters (i.e. salt/brine getting trapped between the vinyl and actual roof). Despite this, I ended up buying the car (75k miles) and will pick it up on Friday. There is one outstanding issue that I know of with the car but I'll make a new post so we can let this one die.
  13. My SLS is rotting from underneath so I'm looking for something a little newer. I'm going to see a 2007 DTS owned by a guy that lives in Florida during the winter (i.e. the body should be in better shape than most local cars). I know that these cars don't have the capability to read codes to me... I do have a Bluetooth OBD2 connector which might be able to read me codes. Can anyone give me (or point me towards) a run-down on things to watch on these cars? I searched the forum but didn't see anything that really stood out. Also, the car has a vinyl roof covering. How are they attached to the car? Is it possible to remove, or would the paint/trim be damaged underneath? Thanks for any help you may be able to offer
  14. Actually on the 2002.5 and up it's so easy. 3 bolts that hold up the insulation panel below the glove box. Then 3 screws that hold the blower in place. There is a vent tube for the motor that just slips on a nipple and 1 electrical connector. Those take about 10 minutes to change.The 2000 thru 2002.5 are a real pain. In the pics you can see the 3 screws. For the newer style you can remove blower from the plate and swap. On the the older the mounting plate and blower are 1 piece, and the plate/blower can't be removed without a lot of disassembly about a 2-3 hour job. It wasn't! Unfortunately, I have the 2000-2002.5 style that Jwoods posted. It was 2 bolts to drop the lower IP cover, 6 bolts (3 in very very awkward places) to drop the fan, then a tight squeeze to actually get it out.
  15. Thanks Jwoods! I cut back some insulation with shears but was still having trouble. It turned out the insulation I couldn't cut off (due tightness of the space) was actually preventing the top of the blower from reaching the gasket. It looked like a Dremel tool would be a help so I ordered one and it arrived today. After 10 minutes with the Dremel, installing the new blower was an absolute breeze. Blower out, noise dampening material in tact (notice all the scratches from getting the original blower out). Insulation at bottom of pic is on the back of the floor carpet and was not cut. After cutting back noise dampening material with dremel, blower not yet in: After installing new blower: The new blower is a TYC 700098 from Amazon.ca for approximately $70 CAD shipped, all-in. It works great, all I need to do now is tape in some of the sound dampening and replace the under-IP panel. For anyone doing this job in the future: I only popped out the right panel in front of the door (to allow the carpet to be peeled back) and dropped the under-IP panel. I didn't move anything else. Also, there are some hidden clips holding wiring to the blower assembly which aren't obvious and will actually hold the blower in place as you try to pull it out... beware! Thanks for everyone for helping me out with this job! Good to have it done before the cold weather strikes!