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Everything posted by Chris

  1. I've left the lower cover off and been driving, but no more drips - because of this, I'm having a hard time finding the crack location. I'll keep monitoring. Once I'm able to get the trouble codes read, I'll post back. Thanks for the help so far!!
  2. Ah, I see what you are saying... yes, that would not be fun! See above post... I couldn't quote you before for some reason. Coolant was extremely low (3/4 gallon), but was still present at the bottom of the tank. No low coolant messages on the DIC. I think you are right about location of the leak at side of the rad. I don't see any signs of leaking at water pump belt/tensioner - the red in the photos is an exposed wire and some brown residue that shows up red in the photo... really good eye!
  3. Last night I topped up the coolant it took almost 3/4 gallon - I filled it, turn on car, shut off, refill, etc.. Once full, I put on the rad cap and left the hood open and idled the car. I turned on the heat and it was definitely blowing hot air while warming up. Once the coolant temperature approached 200°F, I could feel heat through the upper hose to the rad, proving that the thermostat and water pump are working. At 221°F, the fans came on, and temperatures started falling after 223°F. No drips visible last night. I did the same test today with similar results (but also some drips) and believe I have two problems: Electrical - According to AllDataDIY, the rad fans are supposed to turn on low at 'approximately' 202°F, and high at 220°F. Mine didn't turn on at all until 221°, but I'm not sure if they were running in high or low speed. The fans are operated with three relays in the under-hood fuse box: "R1 (MINI) COOL/FAN 1" - 4 prong Hella 12193614 / 3614 "R2 (MINI) COOL/FAN" - 5 prong Hella 12193612 / 3612 "R7 (MINI) COOL/FAN 2" - 4 prong Hella 12193614 / 3614 I swapped the R2 relay with an identical relay for the wipers - both relays ran the wipers, and neither caused the fans to run at 200-220°F. Any ideas, or is Alldatadiy wrong with respect to proper operation? When running the AC, both fans run and temperatures stay stable (when parked) at around 207°F. Drips - Coolant is dripping from the left (driver side) of the rad somewhere. The foam between the AC and coolant rad is wet at the far driver side, and there is a drip visible - see photo. I'll put the car back up on ramps on the weekend, but any suggestions on the source or how to get to it? Thanks
  4. Thanks! I'm not sure when the coolant was last changed... I've had the car for 3 years and haven't changed it (bad, I know). I've removed the air dams/covers and will try and see what is leaking when I get home tomorrow. 2007. It may have been changed, but is in the same position (front driver side of engine).
  5. Hi All, I haven't been on the forums for a while - life has been busy, and the DTS has been running great (around 105k miles)! Until tonight. I pulled into the driveway after a 25 minute drive home (80°F ambient temperature), windows down (A/C off), I got the message "AC off due to high engine temp" or something similar. After I turned off the car, both rad fans continued to run for a couple minutes. After dinner, I went back outside and noticed coolant under the driver's side of the car (approximately below the water pump). I plugged in my OBDLink MX and turned on the ignition to check for codes - nothing showed, and coolant temp around 160 as reported by the OBD dongle. I turned on the car and verified that the pump belt was in tact and driving (it was), the temperatures quickly rose to 220 (fans on), and I shut off the car shortly after. I'd also cranked the heat in the car but the air didn't feel hot at all. Based on the location of the coolant dripping, I initially assumed the pump was bad, but when I searched for info on failed pumps, most posts talk about a broken belt. There appears to be coolant in the surge tank but I haven't opened it yet. Do you have any advice to help me troubleshoot this issue? Thanks,
  6. Awesome, congrats on the new ride! When are we getting photos? I loved my '02 SLS though it had bad tranny seals and never shifted in and out of drive properly.
  7. It doesn't seem to be, nothing prevents it from rotating on the shaft which confused me as to how this thing actually works! Thanks, it does look exactly like this (even the part number on the arm!). I looked for a replacement, but they all look different (similar to what Logan posted), though they appear to be a direct replacement... I tried looking up 09-11 DTS parts, and still get the other style. Maybe this failed in the past and was replaced with the newer OEM style.
  8. Thanks for the replies! The sensor works fine, but needs to be secured to the shaft. I noticed there is an indent for a small snap ring, so I've ordered a pack of various sizes. For now - and for the past month - I've had a zip tie preventing the arm from falling off the shaft. Worst case scenario, it comes off and air suspension inflates all the way (this makes the car really squirrely on offramps, but is very noticeable when checking mirrors). I'll post back the proper snap ring size when I change over to summer tires and have a chance to fix this.
  9. Hello, On the weekend, I was brushing snow off my DTS and heard a pump running. I originally thought it was the fuel pump but it ran much longer than the fuel pump normally runs. Later, I noticed that the back of the car was jacked way up in the air. Upon closer inspection, I found that the arm connected to the LCA was disconnected from the ride control sensor. See photos below. I set it back in place, and after moving the car, the ride height is back to normal. I'd like to re-attach the arm to the sensor, but I can't figure out how the sensor works. There doesn't seem to be any moving parts on the sensor - the shaft doesn't rotate and I can't see any other way for it to read data (magnet?). I've attached a few photos taken from the driver's side rear wheel well, behind the front of the tire: How can I attach this such that it will operate properly and not just fall off again? Thanks for your help!!
  10. There was always an issue with the transmission which likely tore the mount (it was very harsh shifting from P to R to N to D), the second time it was replaced for free under warranty. Rust is fairly common on vehicles here, especially since they switched from spreading salt to a brine solution in the winter. I work at a utility and lately we've been finding that steel service bodies are showing rust after their first winter! I think I will try undercoating my 'new' car before it sees it's first Canadian winter (previous owner lived in Florida during the winter)
  11. Hi BodybyFisher - Unfortunately I can't edit my original post to clarify, but each price includes ALL maintenance/repairs/licensing costs for that year. I've only mentioned the biggest ticket items. For example, the total cost for 2013 is listed at $543 and I mentioned IAC... the IAC cost $246 and I installed myself. Other costs (coolant, oil, throttle body cleaner, licensing, washer fluid etc.) totaled another approx. $300, bringing the total to $543. Also keep in mind that all prices are Canadian dollars, so you should multiply by approximately 0.75 to get USD pricing. I did most work myself, remaining work done at independent shops. Only the front engine mount was done at a dealership, and that was only because it was cheaper to leave the car at the dealership and pay for the work than it would have been to pay for parking while I was visiting Chicago!
  12. Hi Everyone, I did a cost breakdown when I replaced my 1993 STS ( ) and thought I'd post one similar for my 2002 SLS. Unfortunately, I sold this car for scrap as well - the frame was rotting so I couldn't (conscionably) sell it as a roadworthy car. I tried selling it as a parts car but no takers. Due to lack of parking I had to get rid of it quickly. I began driving the car in March 2011 and stopped driving it in September 2016. All prices are in Canadian dollars. Capital Costs Purchase price (all-in, on the road) = $7439 Sell price (scrap) = $300, sold September 2016. Average depreciation = $1338/year Maintenance/Repairs/Licensing – average $948/year Breakdown by year, including major costs (odometer reading at beginning of year): 2011 – 96850km - $681 – Front motor mount, wheel balancing 2012 – 113507km - $1441 – Front motor mount (again), rear motor mount, outer tie rod (left), sand and re-paint rear quarter panels (rust starting) 2013 – 129339km - $543 – IAC valve 2014 – 145840km - $1377 – Intake plenum, spark plugs & boots, all brake calipers, rotors & pads, outer rie rod (right) 2015 – 161775km - $962 – Replace fuel lines, HVAC blower 2016 – 183950km - $48.62 – Nothing major Driving – Owned car for 1996 days (~5.5 years) Over that time, I drove 94,555km and burned 11,018L of fuel. This equates to 20.185mpg. My average cost of fuel was $1.15/L, so fuel cost was $0.13417 per km. The ignition was on for 1635.3 hours, representing an average of 49 minutes per day and an average speed of 57.8km/h when ignition on. Cost per KM Capital - $7139/94555 = $0.07550/km Maintenance - $5055/94555 = $0.05346/km Fuel - $0.13417/km Total cost per KM = $0.26313/km + insurance Some photos of the car at the time I sold it: (body was in great shape aside from rust beginning to re-form on the rear quarter panels) Rotting Frame: Body: The last time I saw it :
  13. The new brake light arrived today. I swapped them (wow that was fast & easy) and the new one works great. The date sticker on the faulty one indicated a January 2007 build date so I assume it was the original unit. Out of interest, the new one had a build date of November 2015. Thanks again for everyone's feedback - definitely made me more comfortable spending $300cad on an LED strip
  14. I have a 12V DC external power source and hooked it up to the CMHSL. Nothing. I've ordered a new unit and surprisingly, prices are much cheaper up in Canada for once ($339cad is the standard price at stores or $295cad including shipping at dealership online stores) whereas I was quoted over $300usd by and on ebay. Thanks again for the replies and interesting to read some of the conversation!
  15. Thanks for all the replies! I'm glad that the brake lights aren't supposed to operate with the ignition in the off position! Jim - Just to clarify, I disconnected the stop light and measured voltage across the connector. With the brake pedal released, there is 0V, with the pedal depressed, there is 14.5V. Based on that, I don't believe there is any problem with the ground, and that there is an internal issue with the CMHSL.
  16. The third brake light doesnt work on my 'new' 2007 DTS . The voltage at the CMHSL is approximately 14.5V when the ignition is on and the brakes are depressed. Is this the normal voltage? I just want to make rule out electrical issues before replacing the CMHSL. I also noticed during testing that the brake lights don't light up with the ignition off and brake pedal depressed. Is this normal? Thanks... photos of the new ride to come...
  17. Thanks for the reply - but don't welcome me, I've been around longer than you! Life has gotten busy and my car has been great so I haven't been on as much lately. After seeing the car, I can see it would be major work to remove the top. I actually think it looks good, but I'm a bit concerned about how it will hold up through the winters (i.e. salt/brine getting trapped between the vinyl and actual roof). Despite this, I ended up buying the car (75k miles) and will pick it up on Friday. There is one outstanding issue that I know of with the car but I'll make a new post so we can let this one die.
  18. My SLS is rotting from underneath so I'm looking for something a little newer. I'm going to see a 2007 DTS owned by a guy that lives in Florida during the winter (i.e. the body should be in better shape than most local cars). I know that these cars don't have the capability to read codes to me... I do have a Bluetooth OBD2 connector which might be able to read me codes. Can anyone give me (or point me towards) a run-down on things to watch on these cars? I searched the forum but didn't see anything that really stood out. Also, the car has a vinyl roof covering. How are they attached to the car? Is it possible to remove, or would the paint/trim be damaged underneath? Thanks for any help you may be able to offer
  19. Actually on the 2002.5 and up it's so easy. 3 bolts that hold up the insulation panel below the glove box. Then 3 screws that hold the blower in place. There is a vent tube for the motor that just slips on a nipple and 1 electrical connector. Those take about 10 minutes to change.The 2000 thru 2002.5 are a real pain. In the pics you can see the 3 screws. For the newer style you can remove blower from the plate and swap. On the the older the mounting plate and blower are 1 piece, and the plate/blower can't be removed without a lot of disassembly about a 2-3 hour job. It wasn't! Unfortunately, I have the 2000-2002.5 style that Jwoods posted. It was 2 bolts to drop the lower IP cover, 6 bolts (3 in very very awkward places) to drop the fan, then a tight squeeze to actually get it out.
  20. Thanks Jwoods! I cut back some insulation with shears but was still having trouble. It turned out the insulation I couldn't cut off (due tightness of the space) was actually preventing the top of the blower from reaching the gasket. It looked like a Dremel tool would be a help so I ordered one and it arrived today. After 10 minutes with the Dremel, installing the new blower was an absolute breeze. Blower out, noise dampening material in tact (notice all the scratches from getting the original blower out). Insulation at bottom of pic is on the back of the floor carpet and was not cut. After cutting back noise dampening material with dremel, blower not yet in: After installing new blower: The new blower is a TYC 700098 from for approximately $70 CAD shipped, all-in. It works great, all I need to do now is tape in some of the sound dampening and replace the under-IP panel. For anyone doing this job in the future: I only popped out the right panel in front of the door (to allow the carpet to be peeled back) and dropped the under-IP panel. I didn't move anything else. Also, there are some hidden clips holding wiring to the blower assembly which aren't obvious and will actually hold the blower in place as you try to pull it out... beware! Thanks for everyone for helping me out with this job! Good to have it done before the cold weather strikes!
  21. I got my new motor last week and plugged it in - it worked so I know the motor was the problem. Today I removed the old one... it was a pain (having a 5.5mm wrench would've been helpful!), but I got it out. Getting the new motor in is proving to be quite a struggle. During removal I followed the instructions on AlldataDIY but there are a couple items I skipped not knowing what they were referring to (see bolded below)... these might be causing me grief now: Remove the right side sound insulator. Pull back the carpet near the blower motor. Remove the IP compartment. Remove the dash integration module from the bracket. Remove the 2 rear dash integration module bracket screws. Reposition the dash integration module bracket in order to remove the blower motor. Disconnect the electrical connector (2) from the blower motor. Remove the blower motor retaining fasteners (1). Rotate and remove the blower motor from the vehicle. What is the IP compartment and dash integration module? I removed everything that I was able to. Any other tips for reinstallation? I did read some suggestions to cut out some of the sound deadener foam on the floor for the reinstall. Thanks again for the help!
  22. Thanks for the replies... idiot me tested last week on VAC (new multimeter and dark outside!)... testing on VDC shows the expected 14.7V which coincides with the voltage on the DIC. There are no bone yards nearby so I just ordered a new motor. I'll post back when it arrives. Thanks again for the replies!
  23. Hey guys, The HVAC blower fan quit working in my 2002 SLS last week. The HVAC system is still powered, I can hear the vents opening/closing when I change modes, some heat comes in at highway speed, and the auxiliary (rear) fan still works. I started by checking the G201 panel attached just in front of the passenger door and it appears fine with no corrosion. The fan stopped without warning (most cases I've read had intermittent problems prior to quitting for good). Then I dropped the panel from under my glovebox and disconnected the blower motor. I figured I'd make sure power was getting to it before attempting a replacement. The blower connector is 3-wire. Uninsulated, purple (center), and black. Regardless of fan position (including having the whole system shut down), I'm getting 30V across the uninsulated and purple wire, and no voltage anywhere else. Is this normal? Anything else I should be checking? Thanks!
  24. Thanks for the ideas guys! JimD - not sure why I didn't think of alligator clips, they worked perfectly... even grabbed onto the negative "pocket" terminal of the battery! After accessory power shut down, it hovered around 55mA (flickered between 0.05A and 0.06A).This is approximately twice what the Alldata manual says the maximum should be, and nowhere near enough to kill the battery so quickly. I suspect the consumption is so high due to the remote start keeping something active that wouldn't otherwise be. I ran the workweek disconnecting the battery twice a day and reconnecting. This made me notice how sensitive the connection between negative terminal and the ground wire is (even a moderately tight connection makes the lights flicker).. After doing finding only a 55mA draw, I thought id leave the battery connected and see how things went. Its been fine since Thursday night, including over 48 hours parked on the weekend. Thinking about it made me realize two additional details I'd noticed but hadn't really thought about before: 1) When attempting a load test, we first started off using the posts under the hood (which are the posts I used to boost my car). We found 0 volts so pulled out the back seat and tested at the battery. 2) The battery in my remote start died over the weekend that the car had problems... it remained dead over the course of Monday (the day it died again at work) and I replaced the battery on Tuesday. I'm thinking a loose connection may have been the cause of all this... I'm thinking that when it was starting ok later the same day after only minutes of charging may have been due to the heat in the cab. Ever since the first time I disconnected (and properly reconnected the battery), there haven't been any issues. Thanks for the replies, and I'll update this thread if the problem returns. Merry Christmas everyone!! I thought the remote start remote dying could have cuased the first battery death (two-way communication and maybe the car kept trying to send a "success" signal), but that couldn't explain the second death the same day.
  25. I guess you are right, FWD had all but eliminated the need for snow tires. More RWD cars will SOMETIMES require snow tires. However, traction control and Stabilitrack make RWD cars much better in the snow than they were back then. I'm pretty sure that with these two systems on board, RWD cars will be just fine in the snow with just all season tires. It's the ICE that really presents the problems for drivers these days. Not much will help there unless you do have studded tires. Somewhat true, but all FWDs are not created equal! I had a work car (2014 Fusion) last week and with less than 5" of fresh snow, I almost got stuck on my first incline (a bridge over a highway). Luckily I wasn't the guy in the CTS that was completely stuck, but I think SLS would have had no problem at all. Even the Fusion would have been ok with snow tires I think. They are becoming quite popular here. I'm pleased about that... beautiful cars! That's really good! My winter fuel economy normally drops by a few MPG presumably due to the fuel mix, lower temperatures, and increased idle times. Winter does cause brutal traffic on the highways here which actually reduces fuel used due to stop-and-go traffic instead of the normal 75mph cruises