Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'overheating'.
Found 19 results
-
I have a 2008 DTS that is overheating due the fans not operating correctly. The fans do not come on. Only 1 fan will come on if you run the AC, the passenger side fan runs with the AC on, the driver side fan does not run at all. I replaced the entire fan assembly (2 fans in the assembly) same thing happened with the new fan. I checked the relays, they tested good, I replaced the relays just for the sake of it, fuse is an inline fuse you can view, it looks good, put a reader on it tested good, coolant levels are good, replaced thermostat for good measure. What can the issue be? why is the driver side fan not coming on, and why is the fans not running without the AC on? This is driving me crazy. -
I have a 96 Cadillac Deville that is overheating and blowing white smoke out of the tail pipe as well as spitting water out of the tail pipe. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Has new water pump, new thermostat, no leak, etc.
-
It is important to note that you will see wider fluctuations in engine temperatures with the AC off because the fans cycle on at 229 and off below 216 with the AC off. This will be true if the AC is disabled due to low refrigerant. With the AC on and operational, the fans are on low full time. The following details the cooling fan operation. The PCM will command fan operation when: Low Speed Fan Operation Engine coolant temperature exceeds approximately 106°C (229°F). Transmission fluid temperature exceeds 150°C (302°F). A/C operation is requested. After the vehicle is shut OFF if the coolant temperature at key-off is more than 151°C (304°F) and system voltage was more than 12 volts. The fans will stay ON for approximately 3 minutes. The fans will switch from low to OFF when the coolant drops below 102°C (216°F). High Speed Fan Operation Engine coolant temperature reaches 112°C(234°F). Transmission temperature is more than 151°C (304°F). When certain DTCs set. The fans will switch from high to low (except DTCs set) when the coolant drops below 106°C (229°F).
-
Hi All, I haven't been on the forums for a while - life has been busy, and the DTS has been running great (around 105k miles)! Until tonight. I pulled into the driveway after a 25 minute drive home (80°F ambient temperature), windows down (A/C off), I got the message "AC off due to high engine temp" or something similar. After I turned off the car, both rad fans continued to run for a couple minutes. After dinner, I went back outside and noticed coolant under the driver's side of the car (approximately below the water pump). I plugged in my OBDLink MX and turned on the ignition to check for codes - nothing showed, and coolant temp around 160 as reported by the OBD dongle. I turned on the car and verified that the pump belt was in tact and driving (it was), the temperatures quickly rose to 220 (fans on), and I shut off the car shortly after. I'd also cranked the heat in the car but the air didn't feel hot at all. Based on the location of the coolant dripping, I initially assumed the pump was bad, but when I searched for info on failed pumps, most posts talk about a broken belt. There appears to be coolant in the surge tank but I haven't opened it yet. Do you have any advice to help me troubleshoot this issue? Thanks,
-
Hello folks I own a 1999 Cadillac Deville and I was told by my mechanic that I have a blown headgasket... We have tried using blue devil headgasket sealer which worked for about 1 day and then the overheating appeared again. I was quoted by my mechanic that the job to fix the engine would cost anywhere between 2500-5000 dollars depending on the severity of the damage. Coolant was replaced thermostat was replaced... unfortunately this did not fix the issue I rely on my Cadillac heavily for work and I need a inexpensive fix and fast one ASAP that will last me and not pillage my bank account so that I can continue working. if anyone has any advice on how and what I should do thanks...
-
Have a 97 Deville, had been leaking coolant slowly, after engine had warmed up it was dripping by passenger front tire ( down the boot area), also associated with? AC would only blow hot air. Took it in, was told that I needed a new thermostat and a backflush told them to do it if it would fix problem. Now over a 20 mile trip had to pull over 3 times as engine was too hot to drive, had to add coolant as was low. Is it possible that they put a bad thermostat in or should I be worrying more that either they screwed something up when they worked on it or a new problem has arisen? I took it back, they said the fan was not coming on, and they replaced 3 relays. Also stated they ran power to the fan and it works. Claims it may have to do with the ECU and they aren't qualified to check any further than they have. Any suggestions? Thanks
-
I have a leftover GATES (US/made in Mexico) Part Number K030245 Micro-V that is brand new, never used. Would gladly mail it to you for free if you PM your address to me. Looks like former part number may be 3PK625. This belt probably fits all years of Northstar production. I only have one, so first person gets it.
-
...just got my '98 DeVille back from the shop. Had an issue last week with overheating. Followed the digital prompts and by stopping to let the engine cool every few miles and adding coolant (with the radiator cap off like an "open" system) I made it home okay. No indication of water in the oil, so the head gasket appears to have survived. ...shop discovered that the water pump idler pulley was shot and had thrown the belt. I couldn't see anything wrong when I popped the hood because the water pump doesn't run off the main serpentine, but off the other end of the cam under its own covering shield. Now I know. ...and because overheating degrades the oil, my first stop after paying the garage repair fee was to have the oil changed. ...but I kept the digital display on the coolant temperature all the way home. Watched it crawl up to about 206 degrees...which makes me wonder what the normal operating temperature range should be. Owners' Manual doesn't say. I want to keep an eye on it for a while, but don't know what temperatures should be under normal (winter) conditions. Input? Thanks.
-
Hello, I am looking for help to solve an overheating problem on my 1996 Cadillac Eldorado ETC. The car reaches operating temperature in a normal amount of time. It Does not leak coolant or overheat while idling. It does not leak coolant or overheat at freeway speeds. However, the car does leak coolant and then overheat in "stop and go" traffic or areas with frequent stops or red lights. The overheating is caused by a loss of coolant leaking from the expansion tank outlet hose. If the car is refilled with new coolant, it returns to operating temperature. My question is what causes the coolant to leak out of the expansion tank outlet hose? RECENT REPAIRS: Heater Core Radiator Radiator/ Reservoir Cap Thermostat TESTS: Cylinder Compression Test (all 8 cylinders at approximately 160 psi) Coolant Pressure Test (maintains 16 psi of pressure for a long period of time and no visible leaks) Cooling Fans (both fans are in working order) Water Pump (circulates coolant throughout the engine) MISCELLANEOUS INFO: No white smoke comes out of the tail pipes Smooth engine idle No milky oil Clean Dex-cool antifreeze
-
Not low on coolant. The norm for the last 6 months has been just above halfway on the temp gauge due to crank sensor issues and a check engine light. Also now low on Freon so computer shuts AC off and gives me a text message on the dash.... No problems when driving at any speed above 20 MPH. However, when sitting in a drive thru line, the temp gauge begins to rise. It has not overheated yet, but it had been 3/4 to the red mark (where I either shut it down or start driving ) I listened for the fan motor, but don't hear it running. However it does seem to turn at a slower speed. It it a simple, the main fan motor is bad - fix it, issue, or is there a slow speed or other sensor issue that may be going on? I don't have the money to just start changing parts till I get the right one. I need to nail it on the first try. And to be sure, which motor is the non AC motor? -
I have a 98 Deville with a 4.6L v8 northstar. About a week ago, my car overheated. Let it cool down and turns out, all my water was gone! So, I found out that once the car gets up to running temp, pressure is pushing water out of the overflow tube, (there is only one reservoir with a tube right by the cap) untill there is no water left! Checked my oil, it's clean so I'm hoping it's not a faulty head gasket. But I think its weird that water is just coming right back out? Somebody please help me.. This car is the love of my life, but if I'm looking at over $3,000 in labor cause of a HG I think it's time to say goodbye. So someone please give me some good news!!! Also, it's not the thermostat. Just replaced that today.
-
With the recent warmer temps >70 I've been seeing the temp gauge rise at idle @5/8 on the gauge the fans kick into high speed but temps continue to climb. I pulled the purge line/orifice and ran a drill through it maybe some small crud but it wasn't blocked. Back in the fall I had a crack in the passenger side tank and replaced the radiator but recall the core not being as thick as the original - I'd have to get the micrometer out but maybe 1/8-3/16" smaller, so possibly the radiator cooling capacity is lower. At the same time changed the t-stat(supposedly fail open) it was different style and could also be contributing to my issues. Debating about having the tanks replaced on the old radiator and going back to original style t-sat and running another block test before I do any of this. There is no overheating under driving conditions accelerating hill climbs nothing only at idle for a minute or more in temps >70 and it comes back to 1/2 on the gauge after driving for 1/4mi. I haven't noticed any coolant consumption or leaks/smell during these idle slight - overheating incidents. Any other ideas?
-
My 96 Deville keeps overheating.. I've tested the heads for leaks.. passed. changed the tstat twice. put new radiator hoses. flushed the radiator and the engine. This has been over the corse of 3 weeks. everytime i change a part or add new fluid she runs fine for two days an then will not cool down. fans work properly, no leaks. When it runs hot the hoses are full af fluid and tight as if there is no circulation hense the change of the tstat.. like i said, ran fine for 2 days and did the same thing. tried flushing the system thinking there was a clog but again, after i was done she ran fine for a day and a half an overheated again. Tomorrow I'm suppose to change the water pump?? Any advise before i start this procedure? Pls? Jay.. bka.. rotwyla. thanks in advance.
-
I have a 1996 Cadillac DeVille Concour Sedan with a 4.6 Liter 8 Cylinder Northstar Engine that has 74,389 miles on it. Recently, it started leaking coolant approximately under the front center of the car. I applied a product called BARS LEAKS RADIATOR HEAVY DUTY LEAKS additive and it worked for about two months. The problem arised again recently and I did the same thing but the results was unsuccessful. The tank had become half filled with these pellets and now the coolant is leaking at a much faster rate then before. I was wondering if there is a way to replace the leading tube on the bottom to keep the cost down or if I have to replace the entire system all together? I have low a/c compressor readings when I try to turn the fan on to keep it from overheating while I'm driving but that fails. The highest temperature ever recorded while driving is 258°. It still purrs like a cat without any engine noise but I noticed that more coolant LEAKS out when it's in idle. Can someone Please help me? I don't want to have to sell HER.
-
Hello, Fellow Caddy enthusiasts! New member here... Actually, this is my first post ever(Hopefully it's in the right place ) ! Anyway, I am posting this because I've been having some issues with the coolant system on a 98 STS... O.k. So, I AM aware of the head-gasket failure on this car and that was the first thing that I had diagnosed; It was done by a professional mechanic, GM certified(if that matters)! Also, tried to have the shop flush the radiator/coolant system... The rest of the work I did myself!? I'm NOT a mechanic but, I am fairly sensible and know my way around a wrench pretty well. Here is a list of what I did myself: Changed 1. Thermostat, 2. Water pump, 3. Radiator & 2 main hoses, 4. Reservoir tank and Pressure Cap ! Before taking the car apart it ran HOT but, i did have a small amount of circulation and the heater(defrost) blew hot air... After putting everything back together it feels like there is NO circulation in the two big radiator hoses at all; And they eventually get very hot and start to swell under pressure! Also, I can turn the Defrost setting on and the car NO longer blows hot air. Only cold! That's car idling 20-25 mins. at a time and heating up to about 3/4 the way up on the temp gauge... Which makes sense if it's not circulating. So, my question is, "What have I overlooked?" or "Is there anywhere I can access the coolant system diagram for this particular vehicle?" I have read about the water-pump pulley and a "crossover" hose(not sure where that's located) but, is there anything else? Is there any extremely small hoses or ports that I may need to check? I tried to be as thorough as possible?! But, if you have any questions or advice feel free to reply! Any help would be GREATLY appreciated! So, If anyone has any ideas please let me know! Thanks in advance!!
-
Here's the deal, my 97 northstar has been getting hot and not sure what to do. Replaced the thermostat, did not get a flush kit but drained the system and ran a ton of water through it with a hose. It has been doing ok at highway speeds. I can drive like half an hour on the highway and then come to a stoplight and sit and the temp starts rising and my oil pressure light flashes off and on. Seems to overheat at a a stand still. on the other hand, i started it and let it idle for 30 minutes in the driveway and it was fine. Oil is not milky so I do not think this is related to head gasket problems. Now I am at a loss. Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
-
I am interested in buying a 97 or 98 cadillac sls with an overheating problem,it has the v-8 northstar engine,the car and transmission are great condition,interior and paint is great,newish tires,tags are 2 years out now,whats the value of this car with an engine that only drives 10 miles before overheating? If i did buy this car what types of engines are compatible with it? I dont mind looking towards a camaro engine,Is there any way of making this car rear wheel drive? I want to make this cadillac a beast
-
I recently redid all my brakes. I replaced all 4 rotors, all the pads. It wasn't too difficult and I want to say that I did everything correctly. But! I took the care for a test drive and everytime I let off the accelerator the car would decelerate significantly. I did a few hard stops. Might have helped a little, not sure. I put the parking brake on and off a few times. I think that made it a bit better as the car would coast a ways without slowing down as much. I drove it around a bit longer and then parked it at home, and my neighbor in the driveway getting her mail could smell/ feel the heat coming from my car as i drove in. So I got out and sure enough both back wheels were super hot. The fronts were practically ice cold. Please help! What could be my problem? Calipers? Parking Brake? I would like to have some experienced input before I proceed. Thanks
-
I just brought a '97 D'elegance yesterday for $1,000 in Maryland. It overheats almost immediately. Every time I drive it the temperature shoots up pretty fast around 244F in about 5-10 minutes or so. What did I get myself into? I think I got got. Oh well. What are some fixes? I dumped $135, for a battery, $240 for MDTags, $10 for tool kit to put in battery and tags, $ 368 for 1st and last months insurance. As well as the $1,000 for the car. I'm felling stubborn. I want to make it work. I refuse to just have wasted almost $2,000 in less than 24hrs!
