Need your help on a problem

[AliRaza]

Any comments suggestions please???

[Oldgamer]

It's possible you got some water or dirt in a tank some how. If it runs now more or less Ok, why you run that tank dry? It will eventually anyway. It looks like its getting better, right? Adding octan buster doesn't do any good to solve a problem. The engine coughs not because of octan, because of something else. I hope it will "cough" less.

[AliRaza]

Thanks for the reply. I am planning to run the tank dry by driving it around the city. It is still coughing the same way. But at a lower speed. On the highway it coughed a little but catches up pretty quickly. As mentioned in one of the previous posts, at higher rpm, the fuel pressure is a bit higher and that may cause car not to completely die out when I am around 2000rpm. But while standing or moving slowly at turns, while the rpm is around 1200 or less, it stops. However starts right back again at a quarter of crank.

[Scotty]

Aliraza, you made this statement above "No fuel there when you turn the ignition to on".

You won't get fuel when the key is turned on, you will HAVE fuel there, a sort of dampness because the FPR diaphram is leaking. Look for dampness regardless as to whether the key is on or off.

You may be confusing this with the fuel injector test where you pull the fuel rail and turn the key on and look for an injector leaking?

What is your fuel pressure with the key on engine NOT running?

Have you cleaned the hell out of your TB?

Try letting the "system" do a re-learn, maybe the idle control needs re-calibrating

Also, does anyone know if a stall can be caused be a slow EGR valve failing to return to the closed position? And if the EGR was sticking and slow to close would it set a code?

[Oldgamer]

Sticky EGR will set a code P039

[Ranger]

I believe a stuck open EGR will cause a stall but as Oldgamer said it should set a DTC.

[Scotty]

Ranger, if the EGR is slow to close will it set a code do you think? I understand that it will set a code if the pindle is sticking, but what if the EGR pindle is just slow and causes a stall under load (coasting in gear, etc), will it set a code?

[Ranger]

Off the top of my head, without searching through the manual, I would guess yes. My assumption is that it is operating in closed loop and if the PCM doesn't get the response it is expecting it will set a DTC. There are 10 EGR DTC's P0400-P0408, P1406 & P1407. A couple of them look like they could fit but again, this is just a guess.

[johnnydone]

i may be out of place but isnt there an ignition module in the dist if all else seems ok it could be that its drying out uses silicone grease if there is a module i would take it to autozone and have it tested if ok make sure u regrease it

[AliRaza]

Does anyone know what Code B2118 means. I found on the net that it is something about Front Vertical Sensor Failed "

"

The car still choking and stalling specially while going through road bumps. I am thinking about loose connections.

Also this morning, it started well but as soon as I put it in drive, engine died. Happened quite a few times.

On the highway, any jumps causes the engine to stalls (rpm jumps to zero) but the speed cathces it again.

I found some history codes but right now B2118 is the current code. Planning to work on it tonight. Any ideas????

I think I have ruled out teh fuel fiter and fuel pump as the pressure is where it should be.

Checked the battery connectors. Negetive terminal was a bit loose but even after tightening it, its still doing the same.

[TDK]

Ali,

I believe B is for Body and 2118 relates to the vertical position feedback sensor, probably used to return the driver's seat to a given memory position. I don't think its related to your stalling problem.

I still think the stalling is related to a crankshaft sensor and if you are lucky, only a loose connector on one of them.

In one of your posts you noted checking the crankshaft sensors and for loose connectors in general. Did you ever get to it?

Good luck

[AliRaza]

We checked the crank shaft sensors for the loose connection. Those are pretty tight and in place. There is no code for those CKP as well. Just changed the fuel pressure regulator but no change.

I was reading about a transmission lockup plug that may cause this problem.

Any inight???

[AliRaza]

Guys,

Any help regarding this issue. I am completely confused and dont know how to move forward

[AliRaza]

Any ideas about this problem. I am completely stuck and out of assumptions/ideas.

Ali

[Matt]

I do not know how to use the quote button yet BUT you said,"The car still choking and stalling specially while going through road bumps. I am thinking about loose connections". I just went through the same running trouble you are describeing. You also said,"Also this morning, it started well but as soon as I put it in drive, engine died. Happened quite a few times.

On the highway, any jumps causes the engine to stalls (rpm jumps to zero) but the speed cathces it again". My problem was very very close to what you have described. I went through 7 days of constant trouble shooting and no sleep. I also replaced, swaped and tested many parts. I also used that ,Um, lets just say Fuel pressure guage taped to my windshield for a ride around town. I did all that you did. I found it to be a ground wire problem. In my case the ground wires were missing from a job done at a shop I "Used to deal with".( now I do my own work) BUT before it got super bad I had all the symptoms you talk about. Some how the PCM was opperating on some kind of ground loop return that was slowly failing. The car was running worse by the day till finally I couold not drive it. I say check all your grounds. There are ground wires in the cockpit under the right and left kick panels and one under the driver seat. There is one near the starter going to the frame and another from the battery to the metal area near the nose of the car. In my case I put back one from the engine block near the starter to the frame and I put another from the bell housing to the frame. I used that wide braded ground strap. That fixed all the things you talked about. I also noticed my battery charging volts were very low before I fixed the problem, after adding the grounds I am back to 14.2 volts. It was around 12.2 to 13 volts before. I hope this helps.... Matt

[AliRaza]

Matt,

Thanks for the detailed reply. I checked my battery charging and it is in the range of 12 to 13 volts. I will start looking at all the ground connections today. Hopefully it will be one of those.

Will get back to you on that soon.

Thanks again

Ali

[bobnsue2]

Matt,

Thanks for the detailed reply. I checked my battery charging and it is in the range of 12 to 13 volts. I will start looking at all the ground connections today. Hopefully it will be one of those.

Will get back to you on that soon.

Thanks again

Ali

Hi,

When my 91 sts 4.9 was failing, it was doing similar stuff but at low speed mostly when cold. And it also was 12 to low 13s volts which I thought was a bit low since the alternator puts out 14.7.

Eventually I got to the ground wires behind the battery.

On the 91 there are three smaller bolts on the body that all the circuits go to. Then a part of the battery cable goes to one of them. Even the computer and sensors ground there.

I tested with big jumpers with alligator clips, one from engine block to battery ground and one from the body to battery ground.

It cleared the problem up! So I added a new ground from the block to one of the posts, at the same time cleaning and tightening the three posts.

This has fixed my problem, and it is now running high 13s to 14 volts.

Maybe just cleaning and tightening was enough but I don't want to remove the new ground wire after all the work with troubleshooting.

This car has always lived in California, so there was no rust or corrosion, and the three ground posts were tight to start with.

Since you timeserted your engine, did you remove the engine

to do it? maybe knocked off the ground connection?

My 91 has two grounds to the engine, one near the starter and one back on the right rear. When I change the oil next time i'll check close while under there.

Good luck,

Bob B

[Matt]

I di the same thing but I use battery jumper cables. When the engine was at its worst I put one leed to the engine and one to the battery ground and it instantly cleared up. That was the key to check all the grounds. I to have the one spot ware all the system grounds meet up with the battery ground wire on the chasis. I cleaned and re did those to but I also added those two big wire brade grounds. I have a 93 Seville.