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coil pack


RJSUS

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Do coil packs either work or not or do they get weak.....I have some low end rpm problems.....Changed plugs...new oe wires..cleaned throttle body..cleaned egr...checked FPR..only code that shows is 300....

Thanx...Russ

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The coil insulation can break down internally producing a return path that is 'easier' than firing a plug.

Make sure all 4 control connectors on the ends of the ignition module are clean and tight.

Not sure about this, but I believe crank position sensors can cause your problem also.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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JimD,

Take a mechanics stethoscope and listen to the coil packs. Suspect/weak coil packs - you should hear arcing. Good coil packs make no sound.

I hope this helps,

Chuck

This is really good to know that you can hear internal arching! Thanks

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Russ:

I decided to answer you here in case others can use the information.

The crank position sensors (two) are mounted slightly above and slightly below the crank centerline behind the left, or front, exhaust manifold. I have a picture, but it is a large file and once you get in there, I don't think you will need it.

Drop the oil filter and remove the filter adapter and drop it out of the cradle to get it completely out of your way.

You will have enough room to get 1/4" drive tools up there to remove the sensors. Make a note of which connector goes on which sensor.

There should be new O rings on your new crank sensors and I would also buy two new O rings for the oil filter adapter.

Have fun....

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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  • 5 weeks later...

RJSUS,

I had a coil breakdown over about 3-4 months. Idled and cruised fine but when you give it a little gas it would stumble, give her more gas and she run fine. Also no relevent codes really ever came up. This drove me nuts. Finally the coil started to fry and then smoked and then gave out completely. I would buy a good coil for about $45-50 bucks at the dealer and start swapping them out. There is a 1 in 4 chance you will find it the first time. Good Luck.

PAUL T.

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Thanks but did that already and that wasn't the culprit...I wish it would throw a code or 2 to see where to head next....If I had an injector problem would I get codes then? Next move is to pull the NEW OE plugs and NEW OE wires and check them out... Would a fuel filter give me all this grief?

Thanx...Russ

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RJSUS,

Better do a resistant check on each spark plug. I had this problem, it turned out I installed a brand new bad spark plug. Using an ohm meter measure the resistance from the spark plug tip to the electrode. The reading on a DVM should be a Meg ohm or greater. On a analog meter, the needle shouldn't move at all (appears to be open, which is good). My spark plug, which I kept as a remember of all the pain I went through measured 7000 ohms.

Good luck,

Chuck

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Well CD....Turns out it was a BAD brand new plug as you suggested.....The #6 plug had carbon tracks and turned out it had a hairline crack that wasn't visible until I put it under a magnifying glass....Thanx much for all the input..

Smooth running as a CADDY should be again..

Thanx

Russ

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Well CD....Turns out it was a BAD brand new plug as you suggested.....The #6 plug had carbon tracks and turned out it had a hairline crack that wasn't visible until I put it under a magnifying glass....Thanx much for all the input..

Smooth running as a CADDY should be again..

Thanx

Russ

Did you use dielectic <spelling? grease?

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sure did.....even tho the wires come with some loaded in already, I still use it whenever changing plugs ;)

Russ

Here is what the manual says about it. Notice the carbon tracking statement, Mike

post-3-1114124789_thumb.jpg

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... I just learned this little known fact last week doing some bathroom reading of my manual!  :lol:

Scotty,

You look so different in the bathroom!

Somehow younger, yet more refined.... LOL LOL

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