Eldorado engine studding an ???

[Roadcapt]

Made a deal with local shop to drop the engine cradle and reinstall after i do the stud kit. Now i will be putting new gaskets on the top end of engine, plugs,wires. Now I need advice on what else to replace while it is sitting in my shop.

Also will replace frt struts.

Price to drop engine cradle an reinstall $1000.00

Then off to the body shop!!!!!

[KHE]

If the crankcase half seal is leaking, I would re-seal the case halves. I'd also replace the front and rear main seal. The rear main seal is now a cartridge type seal that is much more durable than the old lip seal. I would also replace the oil manifold plate that is between the oil pan and the lower crankcase. If your blower motor is the original design (with the 1/2" thick steel inertial plate), replace it with the new style blower and install the fiberglass/foil heat shield. If the HVAC plastic case is deteriorated, the time to replace it is when the engine is out of the car.

[airmike]

When I was talking to Jake at Northstar performance he told me to check the timing chain tensioner and for slack in the intermediate sproket. I stated that I had heard the tensioner would wear almost immediately so I had not intended to replace. He said yes if it is not excessively worn, a new one would wear some but if it was too worn it will get into the chain rollers. I am now replacing both, I think, if my part ever show up. My chain was definitely and obviously well worn into the tensioner.

[Roadcapt]

Thanks guys I am taking notes. This motor has 165.000 miles on it so will order the timing tensiner and inter wheel.

[Roadcapt]

Why replace the oil manifold plate. will do the seals except rear main unless it is leaking. Do not plan on seperating eng an tranny. Thanks again!!!!

[KHE]

When I was talking to Jake at Northstar performance he told me to check the timing chain tensioner and for slack in the intermediate sproket. I stated that I had heard the tensioner would wear almost immediately so I had not intended to replace. He said yes if it is not excessively worn, a new one would wear some but if it was too worn it will get into the chain rollers. I am now replacing both, I think, if my part ever show up. My chain was definitely and obviously well worn into the tensioner.

The tensioner pad that will wear the most is the tensioner on the intermediate chain due to the extreme contact angle. The other two that tension the camshaft chains will last several engine lifetimes. As long as the intermediate chain did not wear through the plastic pad on the tensioner, it is fine.

[airmike]

Kevin I am glad you chimed in on that. I didn't give very complete info. My tensioner is worn to the point the roller are into the plastic. That is the tensioner on the left when facing the chain, sprocket assembly.

[KHE]

Why replace the oil manifold plate. will do the seals except rear main unless it is leaking. Do not plan on seperating eng an tranny. Thanks again!!!!

If you do not have any oil leakage by the oil pan then you probably don't need to replace the manifold plate but with age and miles, they do have a tendency to leak. It would be really unfortunate to have it start to leak a short time after you complete the repair - that would be my luck...LOL. Once they leak, in order to replace it, either the engine or the transmission needs to come out.

Kevin I am glad you chimed in on that. I didn't give very complete info. My tensioner is worn to the point the roller are into the plastic. That is the tensioner on the left when facing the chain, sprocket assembly.

Mike,

The only tensioner where the chain directly contacts the tensioner pad is the intermediate chain tensioner. That tensioner is mounted the lowest of the three tensioners and is between the crankshaft and the intermediate sprocket. The other two have long guides between the tensioner and the chains. I think you and I are talking about the same tensioner. If the grooves in the tensioner pad are deep enough that the chain could contact the metal portion of the tensioner in a few thousand miles, I would replace the tensioner - cheap insurance that you won't have to do the job again.

The guides for the camshaft sprockets will have shallow wear marks from the timing chains - you don't need to replace those since the new ones will have grooves on them in a few hundred miles anyway just like the old ones.