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Question about vent tube under air fliter box


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I have an 01 STS, and I have been playing with the vent tube under the air box. I thought about modifying the vent tube, but one of the problems is that the vent tube's opening restricts the box. (I think that I have included a picture of the different sizes of the tube and the box.)

The car screams, more so than it already does, with the vent tube removed. Rather than altering the vent tube, what about simply removing it? My concern is with rainwater intake.

The area that the vent tube sits is super clean, meaning that it doesn't appear to pick up signifigant water in that area. I would think that if signifigant rainwater entered the area, there would be, at least, a slight film of dirt in the area.

Do you think that there would be a rainwater intake problem if I removed the tube and used a seal on the bottom of the air box from the engine compartment air?


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This issue has been brought up numerous times. Seems that there isn't enough significant HP change to offset the downside(s) to such a modification. The airbox and it's surrounding components are designed that way for a reason. To help block road dust, debris, water,etc. I recall Guru going into a whole dissertation regarding certain mods and the difference between real performance modifications versus what "feels or sounds" like performance modifications.

Have you tried modifying from the cat back yet? If you have your heart set on doing an airbox mod then I would read up in the archives. I know some have done it. Good luck with whatever you decide. :)


"Burns" rubber

" I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. "

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like Guru said, puddles are gonna be your fear, if you want to open intake a little, i would rig a "Ghetto" forced air induction by rigging a tube from the grille, which will also reduce the air temp being used, to a cone filter with a heat sheild around it. itll give you more air, a deeper sound, and cooler air if you have a proper heat sheild. a cheap way to do this is to custome cut cardboard to block the engine from the cone filter, wrap it with aluminum foil, because aluminum is not a conductor of heat, and put a rubber gassget around the "homemade heat sheild". itll block the engines heat fairly well. remove the tube that gives you air from behind the headlamp, and run your tube from the grille through the opening behind the headlamp, and you got yourself a FAKE RAM AIR / COLD AIR INTAKE, WITHOUT POSSIBLEITY OF HYDRO-LOCKING THE ENGINE. just something i havent tried but seems possible. ;)

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<< would rig a "Ghetto" forced air induction <snip> and you got yourself a FAKE RAM AIR>>

I think you forgot the part with the chewing gum and the duct tape. Oh yeah... and spray the whole thing with WD-40 too. :P

I saw a show on the building of Harley's V-Rod motor once... and for all the high-tech scientific design tools and computer-aided programming which went into it, when it came to the real world execution of the radiator (the V-Rod has Harley's first water-cooled engine), they ended up mocking up the air dams from an old pizza box they had lying on the work table. :lol:

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