littleoletot Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 I have this wonderfull "beast" which has behaved perfectly for many years now ( apart from a boot, sorry trunk leak now sorted thanks to your help ) but has developed this unfortunate habbit of cutting out whilst driving during the warm up period. The engine fires up from cold fine and car drives away without any missfire whatsoever untill after a few miles when the temperature guage shows we are nearly up to optimum working temperature and the engine dies no matter what the throttle openning is. After sitting on the side of the road with the engine fuel/air intake warning light on for half a minute or so the engine will restart if cranked with the throttle fully open and after some backfiring will then run happily all day long unless parked and allowed to cool down again and then the same fault will occur. Now if the engine is started from cold and allowed to idle up to working temperature it will drive away quite happily and not cut out. I have looked at the computer fault codes which reveal no specific area of trouble and when reset the warning light goes out -- until the next time you try to drive away and the fault occurs again. Anybody out there know an answer please ? U.K.Tot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 Please post all of the codes here... That may give us a sign of where the trouble lies... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littleoletot Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Dear Jim, thanks for your help,the downloaded codes are as follows - ABS-no codes, AMP-no codes, DDM-no codes, DIM- no codes, IPC-U1016 history(battery/independently minded alarm ?), IPM-no codes, IRC-U1016 history as IPC ? MSM-no codes, PCM-P0102 history MAF problem ? P0335 current-crank sensor, P0336 current-crank sensor, P0386 history-crank sensor, P1106 history-MAP sensor, P1189 history-oil pressure switch, P1372 current-crank sensor, P1599 history-don't know, U1056 history-battery etc, RFA-no codes, RIM-U1255 history-loss of module connection?, RSS-no codes, SDM-no codes, TTM-B1983 history battery again, U1016 battery again, VTD-no codes. Well that's about it, alarm seems to go off when car is feeling lonely and unused, or left in sun and then cool night when pressure alters or battery looses charge if car not used for a bit. The crank sensors? well could be the connection sockets got some water in them when touring Scotland 2 weeks ago, as it was as ever very wet and we went through some quite large puddles, but thought that would have dried out by now. The MAP and MAF problems? the only thing I have had done was a change of filters and oil before we went away. I checked out the dipstick security and that the air filter was fitted the right way round as I am no longer able to do the jobs anymore myself and all seemed OK. So any suggestions would be much appreciated as I no longer have access to a workshop or test equipment. Kind Regards U.K. Tot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Dear Jim, thanks for your help,the downloaded codes are as follows - ABS-no codes, AMP-no codes, DDM-no codes, DIM- no codes, IPM-no codes, MSM-no codes, U1016 history(battery/independently minded alarm ?), U1016 history as IPC ? U1056 history-battery U1255 history-loss of module connection? P0102 history MAF problem ? P0335 current-crank sensor, P0336 current-crank sensor, P0386 history-crank sensor, P1106 history-MAP sensor, P1189 history-oil pressure switch, P1372 current-crank sensor, P1599 history-don't know, B1983 history battery again, Well that's about it, alarm seems to go off when car is feeling lonely and unused, or left in sun and then cool night when pressure alters or battery looses charge if car not used for a bit. The crank sensors? well could be the connection sockets got some water in them when touring Scotland 2 weeks ago, as it was as ever very wet and we went through some quite large puddles, but thought that would have dried out by now. The MAP and MAF problems? the only thing I have had done was a change of filters and oil before we went away. I checked out the dipstick security and that the air filter was fitted the right way round as I am no longer able to do the jobs anymore myself and all seemed OK. So any suggestions would be much appreciated as I no longer have access to a workshop or test equipment. Kind Regards U.K. Tot I reformatted it to make it easier for me to read... U1016 - Loss of Class 2 Communication with VCM U1056 - Loss of Communications with RSS U1255 - Class 2 Communication Malfunction B1983 - Device Power Circuit Low The 4 codes above may have been caused by a low battery. P0102 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low Frequency I don't know what could cause this. P0335 - CKP Sensor A Circuit Performance P0336 - Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor A Performance P0386 - Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor B Performance P1372 - Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor A-B Correlation P1599 - Engine Stall or Near Stall Detected All 5 of the above codes point to needing to replace both of the crankshaft sensors. P1106 - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage P1189 - Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) Switch Circuit Was the car jump started? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littleoletot Posted June 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Dear Jim, Thank you for your reply and thoughts regarding the "beast", I have never jump started the engine, but have had battery problems in the past and replaced the battery about two years ago so that may refer to that as I have never cleared the DTC memory. What I can't quite get my head round is the need to replace the crank sensors when the condition only occurs when (according to the temperature gauge) the engine is just about to reach normal running temperature from cold. If the car is allowed to stand and cool but not become completely cold there is no problem, nor is there if the car is started from cold and left to idle to reach normal operating temperature. Is this a common fault as I would have thought that if the sensors were faulty they would have been problematic at other times as well, which is not the case ---- hmmm is there a way to test them whilst on the car as bet your bottom dollar if you take them off they will test o.k. Or is it a case of buying new ones, fitting them and hoping the problem goes away, oh Lord I hope not! Thanks again U.K. Tot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Since you have never cleared the codes... It would probably be in your (and our) best interests to clear "ALL" of the codes...and then we will see what comes back. Clearing them will eliminate all of the old codes that are no longer applicable. I do know that Cadillac had a bunch of bad crank sensors around the time of the Beast...but I don't remember "EXACTLY" which years were problematic... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 2001 was definitely one of those years. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 2001 was definitely one of those years. Thanks JimD... I thought it was...but wasn't sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.