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A/C Clutch coil on 94 Deville


cwillis

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First the A/C compressor fuse blew, then the bearing in the clutch pulley started making a rubbing noise, so using the Robinair clutch removal tool, I removed it and found that the bearing had begun to come apart. I noticed a looseness with the pulley after removing the belt, and there was a slight "plastic" burn smell. After pressing a new USA bearing back into the pulley hub, and putting it back on the compressor shaft, I noticed a slight binding while rotating the pulley. Suspecting the coil had overheated and shorted, I bought a new coil. Now the problem...how do I get the old coil off the compressor shaft? Do I need a special puller? It appears to be a pressed on coil, as I see no retaining clip or screws holding it in, and the clearance is small between the metal coil housing and the compressor. I am attaching a picture of the compressor with the old coil still on for clarity. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated!

CWillis

post-3-1093836545.jpg

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You should be able to use a standard 3-jaw puller to remove the coil but you will need to rent/borrow/fabricate the installer tool.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Mike, thanks for your most helpful information and diagrams. I had envisioned using something like a pitman arm or a jaw puller, but the picture you attached now gives me a clear representation of how the coil comes off and goes back on. I'll look around and see if there is a puller like that available for rent, or if necessary do some fabricating like you suggest. It might be all for naught if I end up having to install a new compressor, but worth a try. Did you use a new Delco compressor in your replacement? In my case, I see no oil leaks around the shaft seal, and prior to the bearing problem, the a/c was working very good, so I am hoping for the best, but you know how that can go. Regards, CWillis

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I ordered my AC DELCO compressor from Brasington, www.gmotors.com it was about $270 or so with delivery. Have not installed it yet but plan on it soon, this heat is killing me..... :lol: Good Luck with it

I used to work in the shipyard and we used to fabricate this type of stuff. If you have a drill press it makes the process easier as you can custom make the 'back' or spine to your needs. A nice piece of 1/2" by 1" steel would be great. I have great luck with 'all threads', nuts and either large sockets or pipe sections that fit your needs with large washers. Just a few ideas.

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Thanks again for the comments. This is what worked for me, others might not be so lucky....The coil was removed by gently tapping a wedge chisel under the back of the clutch coil (which has a metal frame around it), swapping positions around the coil until it moved off the shaft. This action does not involve the compressor shaft, only a raised metal collar mounted on the compresssor. What I found was that when the pulley bearing begun to go, it scraped the coil's metal housing, and heated up the plastic part, causing it to short out and have a burnt smell. The clearance between the coil and the pulley is around 20 thousandths, so the bearing wear caused this coil to fail. The pulley scrubbing caused the coil to move off its resting place just enough to scrub the pulley housing. Thanks to Scotty and his diagrams, I was able to complete the repair. You may find this hard to believe, but I actually installed the new coil with a 2" schedule 40 plastic coupling which fit the inside of the coil perfectly, and with gentle hammer taps in 3 places on the coupling, the new coil seated perfectly on the compressor collar. I'm back on the road again!!

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CWillis, you know something you said in your last post made a light go on for me. NOW I understand why I was smelling plastic burning for about a year..... It was my AC clutch plastic burning from the bad hub bearing. How is the AC, all fine still? Mike

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  • 3 weeks later...

Mike,

I appologize for the delay in answering your question......we were on an extended vacation, and have now returned. Yes, the compressor continues to work well. There is absolutely nothing but smooth sounds coming from under the hood now. I think I mentioned it earlier but while I was at it, I replaced all idler pulleys and the water pump. The idler pulleys were starting to show wear, but the old water pump was rock stable, just a precaution. The alternator and PS pump bearings are still very quiet, so I'll keep a close watch on them. Anyway I hope this will settle those problems for a while. Many thanks to you and the others that gave suggestions in this matter. CWillis

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