lobuick Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 howdy fellas....sure hope someone can help....i am lost. heater blower will not work. I did the ECC sys check in the service man. was OK no blower operation. on to ECC chart #2 STEP 1....pin B = 7.94 volts STEP 2....pin C open grd. w/key on good grn. w/key off? I cut blk/wht wire ran to grn. STEP 3 = 13.9 volts STEP 4 = 2.06 volts STEP 5 good grn. I replaced blower motor (new NAPA) I replaced power module (new delco 15-8548). still no blower. CODES: E070H, I039C. this is a late vin # 832027. there is a little confusion about the grn. circut for the HVAC power module, mine appears to go to S214. that is why i cut the blk/wht at the module plug and went to grn. any ideas??? THANKS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 P070 (E070) Intermittent TPS Signal I039 Loss of Road Sensing Suspension Data First, modding the wiring is a path to madness. You have no idea what unintended effects may accrue to shorting grounds and cutting wires. I would start by putting everything back and following the troubleshooting chart. Fix things by cleaning connectors and fixing broken or worn wires. One thing that occurred to me is that there are several fuses involved. You might start by looking at the fuses in the Maxifuse block under the hood and in the trunk on the rear of the back seat. The only two codes you cite are for the throttle position sensor and the RSS. You probably have a loose connector on your TPS and one of your level sensors, or perhaps a loos or missing level sensor link. My FSM is a 1997 and I have absolutely no confidence in applying it to your 1992 STS. So, for now, I suggest that you put the wiring back the way it was, button everything up, reset all the codes from the A/C console. See link in my signature block if you've been using a code reader and haven't already been reading your codes from the DIC, or if you don't know how to reset your codes from the A/C buttons. I would start and drive the car, then read the codes after parking but before turning off the engine. Then post all the codes here and maybe we'll see what is up with the heater motor. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lobuick Posted February 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 I agree about cutting wires - it was just a tempory test procedure after bringing engine up to temp. Why would STEP 2 show good grn. w/key off but open w/key on? Fuse B11 OK. I will road test tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 My Northstar schematics aren't of any value for your 1992 STS, or at least I have no confidence in them, but I will answer one question by pointing out that the relays may switch a terminal from ground to something else when the key is on, and the something-else may be an open circuit because of a wiring problem. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WinoBot_Beta Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 One thing that you could try is cleaning the blower connector end as best you can and then slightly bending the prongs on the blower so that they will make better contact once fitted inside. I had this problem before and thought the blower was bad, but it turned out after trying two good motors and getting nowhere, all I had to do was play with the connections a little bit more than usual but that was for 94'. On your car you should have a blower motor control module behind an access cover on the firewall about 2" x 3" that is held by two screws. This control module went out on my 86' and I just ripped one out of an Olds while I was at a wrecker. Apparently this is the most common thing to fail and is about a 3 minute fix. Try checking that out, although from the way things sound it could just be a poor connection on the blower pins and the wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lobuick Posted February 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 OK this is driving me crazy..... I went thru the ECC Chart # 2 again. I am using a new auto range digital mulitmeter (new Innova 3320) STEP #1 7.96 volts HVAC power module receiving a voltage signal from programmer. STEP #2 checks HVAC power module grn. circuit (temp to grn. but meter shows 02.0 - 01.8 ohms?) STEP #3 14.4 volts HVAC power supply STEP #4 = 2.12 volts power to blower motor (heres where it gets weird - eng. off, key off 12.69 volts - key on, eng. off - 12.2 volts, so I plugged in the blower thinking it would run......NO.....I then used a spare blower plug to the fan to BATT. and it runs????? STEP #5 good grn. blower fan circuit. All related fuses OK (B11 - Maxfuse 4) Why doesn't fan run when voltmeter shows 12.69 - 12.212 w/key on or off at blower plug???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lobuick Posted February 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 well boys, i'm goin into more dark territory......the FSM shows a procedure to manually adjust blower speed via the CCC panel to the ACP...this is getting pretty complicated for a retired OLD RR brakeman but i have time on my side!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lobuick Posted February 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 well fellas, the last procedure didn't work out....i thought i could adjust blower via the CCC panel but got to technical for me. i still do not understand the lack of ground w/key off to the blower power module. guess i will try the $90 per hour guy...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WinoBot_Beta Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 well fellas, the last procedure didn't work out....i thought i could adjust blower via the CCC panel but got to technical for me. i still do not understand the lack of ground w/key off to the blower power module. guess i will try the $90 per hour guy...... Did you check the contacts on the harness connector and blower?? I honestly could do nothing but throw my hands up in frustration when mine wasn't working. I even changed out the ground wire and moved it to a screw on the firewall. After all the time spent on it and mechanics baffled, it was just one single pin that was not making contact on the blower. And that was after trying a brand new motor. All I did was bend the pin slightly (even though they all looked straight) with a small screwdriver and then it was alive again... After it was working I felt like a complete idiot for not figuring it out sooner as I assumed that because the pins looked clean and straight, there was nothing wrong with it. I'm not saying this is your problem, but it sure is a small 2 minute job to try out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lobuick Posted February 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 well i tried tweaking the contact pins on the blower & power module, even added a little dielectric grease.....took a short drive....pretty cold here today ( 24 degress F)....still no blower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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