timokon@yahoo.com Posted July 1, 2004 Report Share Posted July 1, 2004 Hi: Sorry that this is so long and wordy, but I want to paint a complete picture. For anyone that remembers, a couple of weeks ago. I posted about my car running like crap under extended driving conditions, ran the codes, and determined (with help from you folks) that it was a bad MAP sensor. Took the car in, had the MAP sensor changed, and the result was exactly the same. Ran like crap. Anyway, the garage called me, and told me that the TPS was bad, and the reason that it was running so poorly, and using a BOATLOAD of fuel, was that it was dumping fuel down the TB by the bucket. So they changed the TPS, and the car seemed to run fine. That night, my wife left the key in the on position all night, and for the duration of the next day, rendering the battery DOA. Had a rough time jumping the car, had to let it charge off of one of my other vehicles for a long time (bout 20 minutes). My wife drove the car around, stopping and starting, fine all day. The next morning, dead. Again last night, jumped it (after letting it charge off of another car for 20 minutes), let it run for a bit, took it for a ride, came back, and once again, dead battery. By the way, all cells are still wet. This battery (Exide) is only about a year old, and looking down into the cells, dosen't appear to be sulfated over, so initially, my feeling was that the battery couldn't be bad, but it's sure behaving like one. Could drawing it out to a "stone dead" state in near hundred degree heat cause irreparable damage? Haven't checked the alternator yet (just moved here and don't have my tools yet), it's only about a year old, but I would assume that I would see a "charge" idiot light if indeed it wasn't pushing juice, yes? At idle, the car is running rough, causing the dash lights to "flicker and dim" a little, but bringing the idle up just a tiny bit fixes that. Codes are: E32 - E52 - E55 - E98 I love this car, but it's driving me to drink. Its really become a money pit. Only has 81K on it. Really appreciate the time, help, and suggestions. Great day to all, Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
up2ng Posted July 1, 2004 Report Share Posted July 1, 2004 Cadillac OBD1 Codes e33 - Open MAP Sensor Signal (make sure MAP sensor is plugged in or replace) e52 - PCM memory reset (battery was dead) e55 - Closed Throttle Angle Out of Range [TPS] (search for ISC adjust here in the forum) e98 - High RPM P/N to D/R Shift Under ISC Fix the MAP sensor issue first and see what happens, most likely the other TPS code will go away too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timokon@yahoo.com Posted July 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2004 The code I am getting is E32, not E33. Was this just a typo on your part? On the E55 (closed throttle angle o/o/r), is, or could this be the cause of rough / low idle? Can you translate the E98? Does this mean that the car is going into gear at too high an RPM? Thanks, Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CadiKing Posted July 1, 2004 Report Share Posted July 1, 2004 timokon@yahoo.com, I am no expert, but I have had similar experiences with car batteries. My guess the battery or connections could be bad. Can you fully charge the battery, and then have it LOAD TESTED out of the car? This will tell you where you stand. I worked for Sears Roebuck & Co. years ago and have seen many bad/dead "Diehard" batteries that were less than a year old. (The reason the warrenty on batteries is pro-rated is to get you to keep buying their brand, because they pretty much know it will/should not last the life of the warrenty.) To answer your question... "Could drawing it out to a "stone dead" state in near hundred degree heat cause irreparable damage?" Yes! Sometimes lead acid batteries will not recover from a totally dead situtation. My rule of thumb is when a car battery is close to it's warrenty period ending, I just replace it. Even $120 is a small price to pay for peace of mind and not getting stranded, or worse yet, your WIFE not getting stranded. I know your battery is not very old, however, I have found that the hottest day of the year and the coldest day of the year are battery killers...especially if your wife totally killed it! Can you possibly swap a known good battery temporarily to verify it is your battery or connections? hope this helps... good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timokon@yahoo.com Posted July 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2004 Cadillac OBD1 Codes e33 - Open MAP Sensor Signal (make sure MAP sensor is plugged in or replace) e52 - PCM memory reset (battery was dead) e55 - Closed Throttle Angle Out of Range [TPS] (search for ISC adjust here in the forum) e98 - High RPM P/N to D/R Shift Under ISC Searched ISC Adjust in the archives. The only post listed was the one we're in. Any further help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacseville Posted July 1, 2004 Report Share Posted July 1, 2004 EO32= open MAT sensor circuit just a typo on his part. diag. is correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timokon@yahoo.com Posted July 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2004 OK guys, now I'm throroughly confused. Are we talking MAP (Manifold Abs. Press.) sensor, or MAT Manifold Abs. Temp) sensor? Heeeeeeeeeeeeeelllllllllllllllllllllllllllllp. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom karen Posted July 1, 2004 Report Share Posted July 1, 2004 Just a piece of info for you. Florida heat does a job on batteries. They can go bad in a short length of time. Some say that if it is a year or older and it goes dead, time for a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msilva954 Posted July 1, 2004 Report Share Posted July 1, 2004 Yea, I was having a really horrible time with my 92' when I bought it a couple months ago. Even though it had a warrenty that was still good for 2 years I ended up having to jump the car every time to start it. Florida heat sucks for batteries, I got a new one for $70 from Advanced Auto Parts and if you have a Costco membership I now see you can get top line batteries for about $50-60 which aint too bad. On a side note.....my fathers Mustang has always had bad battery trouble, we go through one a year on it and the whole line is carroded ?sp? same with the 97' T-Bird we had. But our BMW 3 series is perfect with batteries because it is in the trunk and not the engine compartment.......do you think this has anything to do with it?????Its almost 3 years old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 2, 2004 Report Share Posted July 2, 2004 But our BMW 3 series is perfect with batteries because it is in the trunk and not the engine compartment.......do you think this has anything to do with it?????Its almost 3 years old. Keeping the battery out of the engine compartment heat will extend its life. That's why the current DeVille and Sevilles have the batteries under the back seat. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timokon@yahoo.com Posted July 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2004 Got a little confusion going on here, and looking for some answers to tech / diagnostic questions. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Here's an abbreviated version of the thread with just the pertinent excerpts from the original posts, beginning with my post that began it: At idle, the car is running rough, causing the dash lights to "flicker and dim" a little, but bringing the idle up just a tiny bit fixes that. Codes are: E32 - E52 - E55 - E98 Then a member posted the following: e33 - Open MAP Sensor Signal (make sure MAP sensor is plugged in or replace) e52 - PCM memory reset (battery was dead) e55 - Closed Throttle Angle Out of Range [TPS] (search for ISC adjust here in the forum) e98 - High RPM P/N to D/R Shift Under ISC Fix the MAP sensor issue first and see what happens, most likely the other TPS code will go away too.Cadillac OBD1 Codes My response was: The code I am getting is E32, not E33. Was this just a typo on your part? On the E55 (closed throttle angle o/o/r), is, or could this be the cause of rough / low idle? Can you translate the E98? Does this mean that the car is going into gear at too high an RPM? Then MY post : Searched ISC Adjust in the archives. The only post listed was the one we're in. Any further help would be greatly appreciated. Then another member's response: EO32= open MAT sensor circuit just a typo on his part. diag. is correct. Then Mine: OK guys, now I'm throroughly confused. Are we talking MAP (Manifold Abs. Press.) sensor, or MAT Manifold Abs. Temp) sensor? Heeeeeeeeeeeeeelllllllllllllllllllllllllllllp. And then, the thread goes on to discuss batteries, and the effects of heat and corrosion, and the advanteges of NOT having them in the engine compartment. All good info, but what I REALLY need to do is discern the diagnostic codes. Thanks in advance for your help. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timokon@yahoo.com Posted July 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2004 Just an aside. It WAS a bad battery. Completely discharging it in the Fla heat rendered it DOA. The guy at the shop said that he sees it all the time. Looking forward to hearing from some of you guys on my "code" issues. Have a great holiday weekend ! Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timokon@yahoo.com Posted July 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 MAybe I'll just take a second on my house, throw away the 93, and get a new CTS-V. Anyone catch speed channel last night? Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.