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My STS shut off in spirited cornering at 45+ MPH


chig

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I dove into the 2 lane off ramp at about 50 on the inside lane. As the tires started to squeal I braked and then poof. The whole thing shut off, braking got hard as did steering. All the gages went out. [since the car was off] I got it under control a couple feet from the guard rail on the outside lane. While coasting I put it in neutral and started it back up, then continued on my way.

Now my normally quiet ceramic brakes are squealing. :(

I have a service appointment monday.

Hopefuly there is a OBD code.

Here is the corner:

Anyone ever have this happen?

Chig.

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That happened to me once on a tight turn in my 92 DeVille. My battery wasn't bloted down, (don't remember if that's how it came or I left it off for some reason) and the battery tilted a little a bit and the power cables must of broke contact or something (they were also little loose, or maybe it shorted out on something on the terminals' side). It was scary losing your stearing and braking with cars parked on both sides of the street. I dunno...just a thought.

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Had a 88 Vette that I lost the alternator once, when it quit the whole care went dead, like fliping a switch. It happen went I was driving down the road , not anything like what you were though. Sounds like the car did the same thing. I would check some connections alternator, battery, etc...

sebring06RTP.jpg
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This problem may prove to be quite unique !

Might be interesting to verify the problem in an open parking area in various g-configurations along with straight-hard braking: hard forward turns right/left to hard braking, hard reverse turns right/left to hard braking).

The post about unbolted battery seems reasonable to start with:.

I'd raise the seat (where the battery is at in that car I think) and really check it out. Along with all cables, etc and any accessories that may have taken flight at some point and arced across the positive to the frame.

A loose cable behind the dash would be the next place for something easy.

Next your'e gonna need a manual to do some serious line tracing.

Good luck :(

Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning.
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Rereading your original post....why did the gauges "go out"...??  The guages shouldn't have changed due to an engine stall.  The car and gauges should stay powered up and operate fine even with the engine off.  If the gauges went off I would suspect that the power was cut somehow...  could you possibly have touched the key in the process and turned it to off??  Do you have a large amount of keys hanging on the ignition key ring that could have swung suddenly and moved the key enough to turn it off???

No Idea why the gauges went out. I distinctly remember looking at the instrument cluster to figure out what was wrong. It was completely dark. It was not a bright sunny day, rather a little overcast. When I restarted the car, my gauges came back. Bright lights, bouncing needles.

I have 4 keys and the remote on my keyring. 2 house, Honda (not ricer- hee hee) and my Caddy key.

I was steering with my left hand and did not bring the right to the wheel till after it went out.

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It sounds like you lost power. I have had the mis fortune of this happening to me with my 1970 Trans Am once. Funny thing, as I was pushing it out of the road (and it's a heavy car) someone drivivn by asked me (laughing) if I wanted to sell it? Laughing back ... I said "HELL NO" Anyway, the culprit with mine was the + battery cable had repositioned itself to short against the car chassis and when it did ... it was good night Irene.

My guess is with you, the main power leads/cables are shorting out somewhere. I'd start looking around the battery itself, alternators, starters and ignition switches and the cabling to these components. After that start looking around the main electrical connectors the go from the engine compartment to the passenger compartment.

The unfortunate part is sometimes these items are not that easy to find.

Hope this helps!

Jim White

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you say you had bouncing needles.. i had those when i had a short in my brake light, guess it grounded.. matter of fact, you say you were braking when this happened too.

Worth a check i suppose

What I meant by the bouncing needles is the way the needles move when the car first turns on. They move all the way to max and then to min and finally to normal readout.

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Today I tried to launch it from a stop. Couldn't get it over 20mph and 2000rpms. Just dogged along. No burnout or anything. Bending another corner I floored it on the way out, but again, it wouldn't go above 2000rpm. No traction control either, the brakes weren't actuating, and nothing on the DIC.

We'll see what the dealer finds Monday.

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Something is loooooooooosssssseeeeeee :)

Or there's water where it shouldn't be, or my favorite: a piece of dust in the WRONG place.

For instance, a water drop somewhere near a bare wire and when you turn it moves and contacts, or something is loose and it slides. Try going over some nasty bumps, try turning the wheel left and right hard really fast (not while any other cars are around) and see if you can replicate it.

Slam on the brakes, punch the gas, beat the hell out of it. If you can reliably replicate it, you can fix it.

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yeah man, thats what mine did when i had that bad brake light.

goes all crazy for a second or few, then levels out.. also happened when i hit the brakes

sounds like a ground to me, when it started doing this.. i got sick thinking about the repair bill. shoots up to max posistion then comes down sorta slow, little bouncing action

almost took mine to get it diagnosed when i figured it out, $90 an hour which goes torwards the repair bill

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Today I tried to launch it from a stop. Couldn't get it over 20mph and 2000rpms. Just dogged along. No burnout or anything. Bending another corner I floored it on the way out, but again, it wouldn't go above 2000rpm. No traction control either, the brakes weren't actuating, and nothing on the DIC.

We'll see what the dealer finds Monday.

Are you saying the car would not shift out of first gear no matter how hard you tried?

Any codes showing up in the system?

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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Are you saying the car would not shift out of first gear no matter how hard you tried?

Any codes showing up in the system?

That is exactly what happened, and there were no codes.

I have made the car go slightly sideways in the snow and have seen the "stability sys engaged" on the DIC.

I have also seen the "traction engaged" when puttering up a slick snow covered hill. Max rpm was 2500 and I heard the anti-lock brakes doing their thing. Made it up the hill though.:rolleyes:

None of that happened in this instance.

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