CV Joint Question

[tjan420]

Hello my car used to hum around corners now it squeeks hard when i go left not so bad when i go right so im thinking its a wheel bearing how would i check this and also how would i check my cv when i jack up the car, if the CV did need replacing how hard of a job is it> and what tools would i need ?

Thanks

[Ranger]

A CV joint will make a clunk when turning. This sounds like a wheel bearing. Do a series of S turns like a NACAR driver warming his tires. A bad bearing will get louder when loaded and quieter when unloaded.

[tjan420]

yes makes sense its my front left tomorrow ill jack it up n take a look , what would i need to replace a wheel bearing how hard of a job is it and how long should it take ,

thanks a million

[Jan Olsson]

yes makes sense its my front left tomorrow ill jack it up n take a look , what would i need to replace a wheel bearing how hard of a job is it and how long should it take ,

thanks a million

Quite easy and if you are used to FWD I guess it will be really easy.

You need an ordinary size puller, a 33 mm socket and a ball joint separator. Works with a rubber mallet, prybar and a hydraulic jack if one doesn't want to damage the sealing with a "standard" ball joint splitter.

[tjan420]

thanks is their anywhere i can find a step by step??

[BSchlossmann]

I started replacing the wheel bearing hubs last night. My 93 Eldorado with 205k miles was making a bearing noise when the steering wheel was moved counter clockwise indicating that the problem was with the passinger side wheel hub. I used an impact wrench with a 34mm socket and the axle nut came off easily. Remove the brake caliper and tie it up out of the way. The tool needed here was a larger alien key on the back side of the caliper, I don't remember the exact size. Remove the rotor. Next, rotate the axle aligning the larger of the 3 holes and remove the 3 bolts using a torx (t-55). The wheel puller didn't work real well and the bad bearing separated as it was removed from the hub. I would recommend taking some liquid wrench or PB Blaster a day or so ahead of time. I removed the bearing race from inside the hub and cleaned it up with a small wire brush and some course sand paper. You will need to undo the hub electrical connection. It's the larger clip and don't brake the clip, that part stays with the car and is not part of the hub.

I found a presentation on CaddyInfo that well documented this procedure with a lot of pictures.

The only major problem that was encountered was on the Driver's side. The hub wouldn't release from the shaft. I spent a couple of hours trying to get it to release. I used a rolled up paper towel as packing material and then load it up with PB blaster and let it soak over night. The next morning it was still a no go. I re-attached the 3 bolts and carefully hit the end of the axle with a sledge hammer. Still wouldn't let go. Lastly, I used the wheel puller with my impact wrench little by little while banging the back of the hub with a hammer. It finally released.

I don't know what the stealer ship would charge for the same job. I think that I saved a considerable amount by doing it myself. In the ideal world it could have been an easier job. However, in the real would there are always hitches in the get along. I'm estimating that the entire job took about 6 hours. 2 on the passinger side and 4 on the driver's side.

[BSchlossmann]

FYI. Shakelton did a real nice power point presentation on replacing the wheel bearing hub. Perform a search on "Shakelton" , select the link to the presentation, and then hit the space bar to step through the presentation.