Jump to content
CaddyInfo Cadillac Forum

Need help with passive strut replacement

Recommended Posts

I'm attempting to replace the front sturts on my 93 Eldo. I have researched the archive and produced hard copy printouts for reference on similar strut replacement posts. I'm currently having 2 frustrating problems.

Problem #1, I can't remove the nut from the linkage arm. I broke two torx sockets, the damm thing just rotates. I grabbed the outside with a vise grips and have pretty much destroyed the threads. I'm considering using an easy out or a pipe wrench next. This is after several over night application of liquid wrench. The links appear to be in good shape and I perfer not to spend the extra 100 bucks to replace them.

Problem #2, I was able to remove the two large nuts located at the bottom of the strut. I could then remove the bolt from out of the top hole, and at this point, I'm able to move the strut around a little changing the chamber. The bottom bolt on the other hand won't budge. It's a little difficult to get at with the 1/2" breaker bar with a 2' pipe extension. I tried pounding on the end of the bolt to drive it out with a hammer. It won't budge. The question is, can this bolt be pounded out, as was the top bolt, or does it have to be un-screwed. I can get a bigger hammer. If it has to be unscrewed then I'll need to get a impact wrench.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did this job about a year ago and fortunatly for me everything came out relatively easy. As for the the bolt yes you can pound it out but you will damage it and need to replace it. the one thing to watch out for is that you do not over pound it to the point where it mushrooms and will no longer get thru the hole. i would suggest try heating it first to loosen the bond that the rust has created and then tap on it to remove. you will still have to replace the bolt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Problem #2:

The shank of the bolt often corrodes to the to the knuckle. The best way is to use an impact wrench to remove the bolt.

'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know if this link will help you out, but it's worth a try.



1994 STS Pearl White 260,000 KM (163,000 miles)

<img src="http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v137/caesar/caddycaesar.jpg" border="0" class="linked-sig-image" />

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used my dremel to notch the strut shaft on both sides, then used an nifty tool I came by last year. An adjustable wrench vice grip combo to hold the shaft. It only took maybe 10 min tops to notch the shafts with the dremel grinding wheel. You can really get a good grip with the adj/vice grip tool. It has been one of the best tools I have besides the dremel. I believe I bought it at Lowes.

Good Luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The passive Strutmaster struts are installed.

With the information provided on earlier posts. A got a bigger hammer, a 5 pound sledge, and applying force to the bolt with a braker bar I was able to pop it free.

An impact wrench would have been a better way. Now for the stabilizer shaft. I tried to cut a notch with a saws all across the shaft and then hold it with a large slotted screw driver. I also used a die to dress up the threads. The slot was use less. What worked rather nicely was that I was able to use a small vise grips on the shaft on the backside of the bracket.

I did encounted two minor problems with the Strutmaster struts.

1) The boot washer prevented the end of the shaft for being inserted properly into the mounting bracket. You couldn't put the nut on. Fix was to remove the washer.

2) The brake line mounting bracket hole position had a different offset. Fix was to use a longer smaller diameter bolt and a small stand off behind the bracket.

I did purchase an alignment level. I would not recommend this method because when I had the alignment checked all three. Caster, chamber & toe were out of adjustment. Leave the alignment to the professionals.

The cost for just replacing the struts was 230. I choose to do this part myself a save the $230. The cost of the passive struts on E-Bay were $140 delivered.

I give the guy $20 to swap the springs. And the alignment ran $140. I took out a 3 year program. A one time alignment run between $60 to $80. Total cost was $300. I haven't driven it a lot, but it seems the bump front end rattles are history. This was done at 146k miles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Create New...