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Power Window Switch R&R help


cwchilders

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hi all. Spent yesterday browsing, searching and poking around, Nice place here for a CaddyAddict (1999 DeVille Concours, my third Caddy). Gonna jump right in with my first post, 'cause it's snowing outside up here in Juneau Alaska and my Driver side window will only roll down, not roll up:

I need to remove the window switch assembly, and searched to find really helpful advise on the forum--thanks! I need some clarification, though, if someone could help with this project. The window switch assembly is in the middle of a wood trim plate, with the mirror control forward and the driver settings recall controls to the rear. The window switch assembly is not square, as the lockout switch stubs out. Do I insert the trim tool forward of the window lockout switch (left corner), or to the right of the lockout switch, more to the center of the assembly? Am I correct in assuming I do NOT remove the entire mirror+window+driversettings control assembly--just the window switch assembly from the middle of the trim plate?

regards,

CW

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Remove the power window switch assembly.

Place protective tape between the forward edge of the power window switch assembly and the door trim panel.

Important

In order to avoid damage, the retention spring clip must be fully disengaged prior to removal of the power window switch assembly.

Between the forward edge of the power window switch assembly and the door trim panel, carefully insert a plastic trim tool far enough to depress and disengage the switch plate retention spring clip.

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Here is what your FSM has to say about that:

Document ID# 307884

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"Power Window Switch Replacement DeVille

Removal Procedure:

Apply a strip of protective tape in front of the switch trim panel.

Use a wide flat-bladed tool in order to pry up on the front edge of the switch plate.

Insert the blade under the switch plate in order to disengage the retention clip.

Firmly press the blade toward the front of the switch plate (1) drivers door or (5) passengers door and disengage the retention clip.

Notice

The retainer clip must be fully disengaged before the switch plate is removed. Otherwise, damage to the switch plate could result.

Pull the flat-bladed tool upward while pressing firmly toward the switch plate.

Pull the plate from the trim panel.

Disconnect the electrical connectors (2) from the drivers door switch plate (1).

Disconnect the electrical connectors (2) from the passenger door switch plate (5).

Remove the switch plate (1,5).

From the back side of the switch plate, gently pry the tabs in order to release the window switch from the switch plate.

Remove the switch."

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Basically, I just use a 3/32" screwdriver blade to do the trick at the rear of the switch panel..

Regards,

Warren

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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Thanks Warren! So, the 'switch plate' is the entire assembly including the mirror, window and driversettings controls?

regards,

CW

Yep!

Regards,

Warren

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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CW,

In case it is not the switch, then you can consider a swap of the motor from the back-driver's side window to the front-driver's side.

This assumes that your '99 Deville Concours body style and power window motor etc, are similar to my '94. Personally, I would like to find a nice '99 DCS with fewer miles, so my youngest son can have our '94.

Granted, this is not the finest repair solution, but then again it a lot nicer then no power window waiting for parts.

Good luck :)

Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning.
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I came across that idea while researching on the forum (could have been one of your posts?) I can see where that rear motor is hardly used at all! My Concours has only 60K miles, as I live in Juneau where there are no roads in or out--does take a while to get parts shipped in, though.

Thanks again for your help on this, most appreciated, here.

regards,

cw

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Personally, I would like to find a nice '99 DCS with fewer miles, so my youngest son can have our '94.

Of course I'm much older now, but how I wish my Dad had thought like you in my younger years. :P

Regards,

Warren

Posted Image

There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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If you get in a bind and need that window up in a hurry then this little trick just might save the day. Some say it is only a temporary fix while others have had long term success with it. This is what you do:

1. turn the ignition key so the windows have power.

2. open the door and hold the window switch in the UP position.

3. firmly slam the door shut while holding the window switch in the UP position.

4. window should roll up

Honestly the first time I read about this fix I laughed in disbelief. But it's worked for me on a few occassions and I use my side window all the time. Haven't had to use this trick in about 2 years I believe.

"Burns" rubber

" I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. "

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My daddy told me to "Sing smooth and buy a big car, son." So, my guitar cost as much as my Caddy...

CW

:D:D:D

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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If you get in a bind and need that window up in a hurry then this little trick just might save the day. Some say it is only a temporary fix while others have had long term success with it. This is what you do:

1. turn the ignition key so the windows have power.

2. open the door and hold the window switch in the UP position.

3. firmly slam the door shut while holding the window switch in the UP position.

4. window should roll up

Honestly the first time I read about this fix I laughed in disbelief. But it's worked for me on a few occassions and I use my side window all the time. Haven't had to use this trick in about 2 years I believe.

Hey guys it works and I have done this 3 times in 3 years on my 98 Deville.The 3rd time being last night.All 3 times it was very humid outside or raining.

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I live in Juneau Alaska, where it rains 94 inches a year--the world's largest temperate rainforest. Pretty much raining and humid everyday; except today when it is snowing and humid...

I cannot fully express my appreciation for the help from the forum members. Not just my post with the service manual quote + user-tested fixes, but the knowledge available through researching previous help you-all have given.

I have the switch removed. Apparently ran the battery down running window motors, trying to test my 'rube-goldberg' attempts at tricking the window into roll-up by disassembling the switch. I did get it to roll DOWN some more, but the ic on the circuit board scared me off in the end. Got about a thousand four-hundred and seventy six error codes re low current (look-up from link found researching caddyinfo.com), and a search on the forum pointed me to battery/cable problems--fixed it! Still, the CD flying out of the dash into the back seat after the trunk popped open while the car would not start when the computer was confused by the low current scared the crap out of me for half a day.

Battery charged, corroded positive cable cleaned. New switch is in the mail, car runs again tonight, so wife pretty happy; In Alaska it will take until next week at least to get the window switch and remove the plastic silver-colored (matches the Anniversary Concours pretty close right from the shelf) duct-taped to the window (looks pretty Alaskan that way, though). Again, thanks all you guys!

regards,

CW

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