jdelhorbe Posted August 3, 2006 Report Share Posted August 3, 2006 How do you get the front brake rotor off the steering knuckle. I removed the caliper, the axle nut and seperated the rotor from the axle shaft. The rotor looks like it is pressed into the steering knuckle. Do I have to remove the entire steering knuckle to get the rotor off. I have both STS GM shop manuals and they do not show anything on rotor removal. I just want to get the rotors resurfaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted August 3, 2006 Report Share Posted August 3, 2006 All you need to do is take the caliper and caliper bracket off. The AXLE NUT does NOT need to come off... Put it back on and torque it back to spec when the caliper is on so you can use a drift or screwdriver in the vent to act as a stop to allow you to tighten the axle nut to spec, for now, just put the nut back on to keep the axle shaft from dropping back, be sure to torque it later.. SOMETIMES the fn rotor is fused to the hub bearing assembly with rust, debris, jay walkers, etc. I see you intend on using it again, so don't hammer on the inner braking surface. Use some type of penetrating solvent around where it contacts the hub to help loosen it. Turn the wheel each way and take a heavy hammer and bang it off from the rear at a safe location.....If you find a nice location to strike it, put the car in neutral (leave parking brake on and chock the rear wheels in both directions) and turn the hub so that you can strike it all the way around 360 degrees. Since you need to use it again, use a brass rod or similar and find a place to hit from the rear in an area that won't damage the rotor's braking surface. Rotors FROZEN onto the hub are common and they can be a BEAR to get off, have patience it will come off... Mike PS, try not to get solvent on the wheel studs, if you do, use brake clean to get it off, the penetrating solvent will screw with proper torquing of the wheel nuts later, that goes for the axle nut also. ALSO, make sure that there is NO spring steel retaining clips on your wheel studs holding the rotor on, I doubt it, but I wanted to caution you to that possibility.... they are usually only there on the first brake job from the factory assembly.. Here is a photo with the rotor off to give you an idea of what it looks like. My axle nut is off, I was replacing my hub bearing, Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackc Posted August 3, 2006 Report Share Posted August 3, 2006 I was able to jar mine loose by smacking the rotor with a hammer between the lug studs. Don't be afraid to hit it hard and repeatedly. Its the shock from the hammer blows that eventually breaks the rust bond. Mine popped loose on about the 4th blow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdelhorbe Posted August 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2006 The rotor is now off and at the shop being turned. Thanks for the quick response. It was the 2 metal factory clips and some rust holding it on. Once I removed the clips I was able to pry it off gently with a larger screw driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted August 3, 2006 Report Share Posted August 3, 2006 Nice, I mentioned those above, I am shocked they are still in place on your 93! Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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