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Marcus815

Review of '93 Seville

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Model: 1993 Seville

Original Price: $40, 744

Test Drive Due to: I own it

Feature's: 3 cigarette lighters with ashtrays, great for friends that smoke or plugging in a lot of electronics.

Pro's: It's got a big 4.9L engine on it (thanks Bruce), which provides for good acceleration. Very spacious in the back seats, as well as in the front. Plush leather seats unlike any other car I've ridden in. Large trunk. Back seat air vents are powerful and very effective in cooling and heating. I think the frame is dead sexy and really smooth looking, unlike any car I've seen.

Con's: The armrest is mounted in a poor way, causing it to come undone and require to be reattached every few weeks. Digital fuel gage is very inaccurate, range meter isn't as accurate as on new car's but that's understandable. FWD isn't any better in snow, ice or rain...the car still slides and according to reviews it takes away some acceleration from a dead stop. Crummy mileage, especially around town. Car dies on occasion when first started, shifted, or accelerated quickly when first turned on. E-brake no longer works due to vacuum tube failure and cable linkage problems (it's really expensive to fix). Condensation in tail lights, but I'm working on fixing that ; )

In-between: Digital Speedometer. I've got a '96 Chevy Blazer which has an analog speedometer and I'm still border-line on which way I like it more. Digital is nice and it gets a "Ahhh" from friends whom have never seen one before, but you also lose the effect of accelerating fast and watching the dial move.

In General: Very reliable, never any major problems. A lot of little things can go wrong, so check on stuff like that if you're buying one, especially if it has a good amount of miles on it. It's got some great acceleration from 20 MPH onwards, making it real easy to pass other cars even if they're trying to pass you. That's of course speaking from having a 4.9L, I can't vouch for the 4.6L North Star as I've never driven with one. Overall it's a great car after fourteen years and still running strong and I consider myself lucky to have it.

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Edited by Marcus815

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E-brake no longer works due to vacuum tube failure and cable linkage problems (it's really expensive to fix). Condensation in tail lights, but I'm working on fixing that ; )

I have replaced my the tubing on my supply to the HVAC and Parking brake, its not expensive. I have also replaced the vacuum servo motor that releases the parking brake and that is also cheap. If you are talking about the parking brake cables, yes they can be expensive but if you do it yourself not really. Maybe its expensive if you don't want to be John Wayne and prefer taking it in for repairs.

Here is information regarding the tail light condensation

http://www.caddyinfo.com/taillight.htm


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I'm not exactly a car mechanic, so I posted what I knew. I'll take the advice but leave the sarcasm. Thanks. What is the average run-around price to get it up and running again, if I did it myself?

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Here is a thread discussing the parking brake job and the custom tubing that runs to the black tank under the headlight area ($13). If you had vacuum problems you would have HVAC delivery problems also, do you have HVAC delivery problems?

See this thread, http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...servo&st=15

Check this thread for a photo of the vacuum servo that releases the parking brake, you can replace that for about $20

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...64&hl=servo

If you have a vacuum gage you can test to see if you have vacuum, when the car is in park NO VACUUM, when you put it in DRIVE or REVERSE you have vacuum.


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Thank You. It doesn't release when I put it in Drive or Reverse, and that is because (according to the mechanic) the vacuum broke and it would cost at least 500. He told me I could release the brake by using the lever, which I had been doing for a while. Then one day I used it when I was parked on a hill and when I came out I released it as usual. I drove maybe a mile to my destination and within moments of parking I smelled rubber burning. I took it to the mechanic and he made sure the brake was not engaged and advised me to use the brake under only the most necessary situations. Since then I have not used the E-Brake.

Edited by Marcus815

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I am not sure how this problem could cost $500. Its possible that your vacuum servo's diaphram is bad. I posted a link above to where and what the vacuum servo looks like. It is held in place by two screws. You can test your vacuum servo with a handhelp vacuum pump that you can buy at Sears. See this one at Sears >> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...UseBVCookie=Yes

What you would do is push the E-Brake on, pull the vacuum hose off of the servo and connect the hose from the vacuum pump and pump it. You will immediately know what is wrong as the E-Brake will pop off, or you will not be able to draw a vacuum. If it pops off, your problem is elsewhere if you can not draw a vacuum the diaphram in the servo is bad and you just need to replace the serve (about $20 for part). You can do that job yourself with the photos I posted above, it is held by 2 screws, its tight but if you go slow you will get it, mike


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Well, I heard that the Cadillacs from that general time period had problems with their E-Brake's because of the Vacuum's and cables, so that general design wasn't implemented in later models.

I appreciate the info, though. I'm getting together later with a buddy of mine who works on cars and we'll take a look at it. He's got this '87 Firebird that looks great, but the engine is some replacement he found that has 85HP or something. It sounds like a lawn mower.

Edited by Marcus815

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Well, I heard that the Cadillacs from that general time period had problems with their E-Brake's because of the Vacuum's and cables, so that general design wasn't implemented in later models.

I appreciate the info, though. I'm getting together later with a buddy of mine who works on cars and we'll take a look at it. He's got this '87 Firebird that looks great, but the engine is some replacement he found that has 85HP or something. It sounds like a lawn mower.

Listening to 'urban myths' from 'mechanics' is not advisable. Bias can color their thinking. The parking brake mechanism and operation has been identical back to the 60's it does NOT have problems at all, and I believe its still used. CADILLAC designed and introduced this feature. If it is maintained, it works, PERIOD. Your car is 15 model years old. Rubber dries out, cracks, becomes porous or begins to leak at junctions and needs to be reset and replaced.

Rather than assume these are PROBLEMS, try to think about these things as things you need to diagnose and fix, like IRQ sharing/conflicts, since you are into computers.

For instance, in an earlier post, you made what to me is a HARSH and inaccurate statement under CONS, no less. You say, "Digital fuel gage is very inaccurate, range meter isn't as accurate as on new car's but that's understandable". You present that statement as factual when you couldnt be MORE wrong. There is a fuel level sending unit in the TANK, your's probably needs replacing, simple. The gages are VERY accurate when they operate correctly, your's is NOT.

You make this statement, "FWD isn't any better in snow, ice or rain...the car still slides and according to reviews it takes away some acceleration from a dead stop". This statement it totally erroneous. FWD is WAY better in the snow than traditional rear wheel drive its NOT even close. Now I don't mean all wheel drive, quattro, or RWD with traction control I mean traditional RWD.

If by "according to reviews it takes away some acceleration from a dead stop" you mean, that the traction control limits wheel spin, by transferring power, braking and dropping cylinders?, you are correct, and that is a good thing! Spinning your wheels wildly does NOT get you out of mud and snow and its dangerous for the transaxle. You may be able to turn your traction control off, check your manual.

If you are interested in diagnosing and fixing your problems we can help you. But please DON'T assume that what you experience is NORMAL and try not to listen to garage mechanics that are bias and that have limited experience. Its better to ask questions than to make statements of fact, that may be based on misinformation. Keep in mind that you are driving a 15 yo old car that may or may not have been maintained peoperly and that may or may not be experiencing problems.


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Well, I heard that the Cadillacs from that general time period had problems with their E-Brake's because of the Vacuum's and cables, so that general design wasn't implemented in later models.

I appreciate the info, though. I'm getting together later with a buddy of mine who works on cars and we'll take a look at it. He's got this '87 Firebird that looks great, but the engine is some replacement he found that has 85HP or something. It sounds like a lawn mower.

Listening to 'urban myths' from 'mechanics' is not advisable. Bias can color their thinking. The parking brake mechanism and operation has been identical back to the 60's it does NOT have problems at all, and I believe its still used. CADILLAC designed and introduced this feature. If it is maintained, it works, PERIOD. Your car is 15 model years old. Rubber dries out, cracks, becomes porous or begins to leak at junctions and needs to be reset and replaced.

Rather than assume these are PROBLEMS, try to think about these things as things you need to diagnose and fix, like IRQ sharing/conflicts, since you are into computers.

For instance, in an earlier post, you made what to me is a HARSH and inaccurate statement under CONS, no less. You say, "Digital fuel gage is very inaccurate, range meter isn't as accurate as on new car's but that's understandable". You present that statement as factual when you couldnt be MORE wrong. There is a fuel level sending unit in the TANK, your's probably needs replacing, simple. The gages are VERY accurate when they operate correctly, your's is NOT.

You make this statement, "FWD isn't any better in snow, ice or rain...the car still slides and according to reviews it takes away some acceleration from a dead stop". This statement it totally erroneous. FWD is WAY better in the snow than traditional rear wheel drive its NOT even close. Now I don't mean all wheel drive, quattro, or RWD with traction control I mean traditional RWD.

If by "according to reviews it takes away some acceleration from a dead stop" you mean, that the traction control limits wheel spin, by transferring power, braking and dropping cylinders?, you are correct, and that is a good thing! Spinning your wheels wildly does NOT get your out of mud and snow and its dangerous for the transaxle. You may be able to turn your traction control off, check your manual.

If you are interested in diagnosing and fixing your problems we can help you. But please DON'T assume that what you experience is NORMAL and try not to listen to garage mechanics that are bias and that have limited experience. Its better to ask questions than to make statements of fact, that may be based on misinformation. Keep in mind that you are driving a 15 yo old car that may or may not have been maintained peoperly and that may or may not be experiencing problems.

Right, I understand that. It is 14 years old, so I do figure that things will go wrong. A buddy of mine put it this way when he was referring to Audi, I suppose the same can apply to Cadillac's...

"People say alot of things go wrong with Audi's, that they need alot of maintenance. But look at it this way. Let's say Audio has 800 features, and a Honda has 100. And for every 100 features, 1 feature will break. That means 8 things will break on an Audi and 1 thing on a Honda. That doesn't mean the Honda is any better at all, just that it has less features".

Believe me, I know mechanics are biased. I did my own research when he fixed some of the problems I had, but I don't know much about car's so in the end I had to hope he was being honest. I'm not with that mechanic anymore because the closed up shop after 40 years, so I take it to a new place. The new place has told me multiple times that "things will break on this car that we can't fix because it's a Cadillac and Cadillac's use special parts that we don't have. That's what luxury cars are". Thats not my way of thinking, but that's what I was told. Anyhow, I'm here to try and get another viewpoint, I appreciate it Mike.

BTW, I have fixed a few things myself on my car, or at least given my full effort. A buddy of mine broke the automatic retracting antenna on the back by accident (I squeezed every last penny out of him to replace it, haha). I removed the cotton padding in the trunk to get to the antenna and got in the trunk and removed the antenna altogether. I then went on Ebay and ordered a replacement antenna. The antenna arrived, but it was different than advertisement and I returned it. I looked all over the internet but could not find the exact automatic antenna to replace it with, so now I have a retractable antenna that is manual. The mechanic told me that it would cost $250 to replace the antenna, and since I knew nothing else about the antenna or the part number to try and find one I got stuck with a $40 manual retractable one. It gets ****** reception and the radio always get's static.

Mike, I'm glad we got into this discussion. It has renewed my initiative to find a replacement antenna, a real replacement. I'm going to go to the local junkyard that's about 15 miles away and see what he has. Thanks

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I appreciate this conversation and I will reply, but I am going to let others comment on some of the things you just posted about luxury cars and not being able to get parts, etc. That is exactly the kind of thing I am talking about with mechanics, see this site

Car Parts Try searching for your antenna


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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