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1996 deville #2 keyless remote entry


mamacad

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i just this car and the only remote they had was number 2. i see the info how reprograming the remotes, however the info said you have both remotes. is there a way to do this with just the number 2 one. thanks in advance

There is *NO* difference between remote #1 and #2. They are simply labeled as such for you and your wife's convienences.

Program only the one (twice) if that is all you have. If you wish, you may program a second one, but it's not necessary.

If you'd like two programmed, you must do both at the same time.

See: http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/cad96rke.html

Regards,

Warren

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  • 4 weeks later...

thank you for the info.

i tried this and nothing.

i tries a number remote1 and no go.

this is what is happening. i hold warmer and off bottons. til all the lights are on then let go. i press fan dn, no change then fan up the the climate control window go blank the ipc does not change nor the dic. i tried three times. the third time the same however , the trunk opened and gas door opened and i can hear it clicking. i never see any override nor programing data. any help would be nice , thanks

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Try skipping #1 and just go and program #2. There is a slight difference if you have memory seats as depending on the remote used, the seat/mirrors go to where they were with that particular remote (driver 1 seat position/driver 2 seat position). This should work as when I first programmed mine, I only did the #1 first and it worked. I did have to do it a couple times until the locks automatically cycle as in the instructions. You can purchase a set of remotes on ebay if you want both. I bought both of mine for $50 and they work great. When I bought my car neither remotes were included for some reason.

Here is a great site for programming. Make sure your battery in the remote is not dead or obviously it will not work. And there is a chart listed on this website as well, so you can verify it is the right model # remote for your year. Follow instructions until you get to PGM FOB1 S01------then hit the FAN Up Button to get to PGM FOB2 S02 ------------------ then jsut continue on. I am pretty sure that will hook u up.

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/cad96rke.html

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thank you for the info.

i tried this and nothing.

i tries a number remote1 and no go.

this is what is happening. i hold warmer and off bottons. til all the lights are on then let go. i press fan dn, no change then fan up the the climate control window go blank the ipc does not change nor the dic. i tried three times. the third time the same however , the trunk opened and gas door opened and i can hear it clicking. i never see any override nor programing data. any help would be nice , thanks

I had the same issue (only 1 remote, #2). The gas door, trunk opener always worked but no door locks. Opened up the remote and found some type of lubricant on underside of the key pad and on circuit board. No idea if factory lubed or an attempt by the previous to repair. In any event, cleaned off the residue and the remote functions as intended.

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after i hit buttons and the all the lights go on and off. i press fan dn because i have a digital panel. then where does the rfa display. i have ecc goes blank and nothing else appears on the ipc panel.

Right in the center of the cluster at the bottom. Should be able to hit the fan button and scroll through to it (don't be afraid to hold the button for a second). The system should start showing code info, after the system goes blank, but you do not have to wait for it to finish. Just hit the fan down button and cycle until RFA? appears. By the way, it stays in daignostic mode anyway until u turn the key off or hit RECIRC, or RESET . So, at any time you should be able to hit the fan down and scroll through the displays.

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thanks everyone, but i think it is lost cause on my part. i still get no codes, just the abs warning light came on. maybe go to autozone to see if they can do something. .with my luck the cars computer needs help.

remotes are good, horn works, fuses look ok. cant afford a dealer to fix it, around here not to many good ,honest people.

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thanks everyone, but i think it is lost cause on my part. i still get no codes, just the abs warning light came on. maybe go to autozone to see if they can do something. .with my luck the cars computer needs help.

remotes are good, horn works, fuses look ok. cant afford a dealer to fix it, around here not to many good ,honest people.

Where are you located? Maybe someone from the board can help you if you live close to someone. Question: When you hold the warmer and off button simultaneously with the key in the run position, everything on the cluster should light up, then go blank, then start flashing information to you. After you release the buttons, is this happening? If so, you wait for it to go blank then come up flashing code information, before you press the fan down button.

To enter diagnostic mode, proceed as follows:

Turn ignition "ON." Engine can be either OFF or RUNNING.

Depress the "OFF" and "WARMER" buttons on the Climate Control Center (CCC) simultaneously and hold until the segment check appears on the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC).

After entering On-Board Diagnostics, a segment check is automatically performed and then any trouble code stored in computer memory will be displayed. Codes may be stored for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC), Air Conditioning Programer (ACP), Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) Traction Control System (TCS) or Road Sensing Suspension (RSS) systems.

Each trouble code consists of the system abbreviation: (P: Powertrain, PCM), (E: Engine, ECM), (I: Instrument Panel Cluster , IPC), (A: Air Conditioning, ACP), (R: Supplemental Inflatable Restraint - Air Bags, SIR), (T: Traction Control - Anit-Lock Brakes, TCS), (S: Road Sensing Suspension, RSS), a three digit code identifier, and the letter C or H. All codes for each system are displayed together, in the order of their three digit number (lowest first). The final digit of the code, a "C" or "H" is used to indicate whether the code is Current or History. A "C" means the fault was still present the last time the diagnostic test was run, while "H" means the failure was not present the last time the code was tested for.

If no codes are present for a system, a "NO X CODE" message (with "X" being the system i.e. E, I, A, R, T or S) will be displayed. If the communication line to a component is not operating, a "NO X DATA" message will be displayed, indicating that the IPC could not communicate with that system.

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i just went to autozone. they told me that only the dealership can reset 96 sedan deville. cant be done through the off and warmer buttons.

or are bs me. i bought this car for my son but he did not want it and now thinking about keeping for myself. maroon, ragtop and 91000 miles. clean. thats why i wanted to get keyless to work.

When you hold the warmer and off button simultaneously with the key in the run position, everything on the cluster should light up, then go blank, and comes on again no codes flash

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i just went to autozone. they told me that only the dealership can reset 96 sedan deville. cant be done through the off and warmer buttons.

or are bs me. i bought this car for my son but he did not want it and now thinking about keeping for myself. maroon, ragtop and 91000 miles. clean. thats why i wanted to get keyless to work.

When you hold the warmer and off button simultaneously with the key in the run position, everything on the cluster should light up, then go blank, and comes on again no codes flash

Man that is odd. Mine is a 97, and the 96 and 97 program the same way. And if your cluster is lighting, then going blank......................That is then in diagnostic mode. You should be having the car performing it's checks automatically at that point. I just programmed mine. I just wonder now if there is a way to disable the codes.............which could be your problem, that they need turned on again. Unfortunately, I don't know the answer. Maybe someone else on here does. If not, I would just run it by a dealer. If it is just resetting something and programming the key fob, they won't charge you more then $50. And if it is more then that, you'll get that answer and then fix it yourself, knowing what the problem is ahead of time. You're not even gettting a "NO X CODE" or "NO X DATA" on the display?

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