Bentham Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 Found this bazooka subwoofer that resembles a NOS tank and am thinking of getting it. I've always wanted to add a subwoofer and it'd be funny if people actually thought I had NOS. http://www.savinglots.com/lotprod.asp?item=NOS8 Anyway, it's cheap so I was just wondering if hooking up a sub is easy enough to do and will there be any complications? Thanks -Eric Eric 93 Cad Seville 100K 95 Chev Blazer 143K [garaged summers] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacseville Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 I'd stay away from tube woofer. Get yourself a small sealed box and 1 ten with a small amp. Generally tube woofer are loaded with a 6.5" driver. sometimes 8". anyhow, they are easy enough to install if you have an aftermarket cd player. otherwise it's a little more complicated. running the wiring kit is the hardest part. let me know what you decide to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie Hank Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 I have two 10" Bazooka subwoofers in my 'Stang, and they'll rattle my bumper off, if I let them. I don't know what your expectation is for sound, but there is a inverse relationship between frequency and the size of the driver, that is, the lower responses require larger diameter drivers. Based on your priority of "look", a 6-1/2" driver will probably suffice. Be sure to cut-out your signal at 150 hertz or lower, to get better bass response. This most cost effective way would be to buy a low-cost 2-channel amplifier that has a low-pass filter and bridge the channels. A 2x75 watt amplifier at 4 ohms will yield about 300 watts bridged, which would be more than plenty of power for one of these things. These size speakers will handle the additional distortion that comes from "bridging" the channels, but make sure the ampifier is designed for bridging, this type will inevitably have a low-pass filter. If you buying more than one bazooka, say two, see if they offer them in a choice of 8 ohms, wire them in parallel to yield 4 ohms, and appropriately size your amp. The reason for this, most amps are based on 4 ohm speaker loads, and wiring two 4 ohm speakers in parallel results in 2 ohms, which could overdrive your amp, if not rated at 2 ohms, as well. Some amps are stable and rated at 2 and 4 ohms, but they get a little pricy. The key to Bazookas is firing them backwards, towards the rear of your car. Amazingly, this allows the low frequency to hit the trunk of the car and resonate back to the passenger compartment, for maximum response. Bass response is non-directional, hence why most woofer manufacturers recommend you place home wookers near a wall (for resonance). A Bazooka "techy" recommended this to me, I tried it several ways, and his recommendation was quite noticeable. Good luck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentham Posted March 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 Ok, read your post 3 times Willie and am .. baffled at how much you know.. and how much I don't! I DO have an aftermarket CD head unit installed all the wires from that are running from the trunk I believe. It's a Balupunkt BPV660 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-NQdRNPtJc0t/c...a=0&cc=01&avf=N However, I'm not sure how to 'cut out' the signal but will my current set up be able to handle the sub? I also want a toggle switch -Eric Eric 93 Cad Seville 100K 95 Chev Blazer 143K [garaged summers] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dynomite98 Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 Wanna rattle your whole car? Go my route, three 12s in a Ported Bandpass Bax with a 1500 watt amp. Andrew Morris Dallas, Texas 1998 Black Eldorado: full custom Borla exhaust Custom intake 1500 watt Hifonics amp 3 12inch Boston Acoustic G2 subwoofers I-pod integrated 18 inch Lexani Krystals with Z-rated tires E&G classics Billet grill BMW E36 Angel Eye Headlights Ported SS heads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentham Posted March 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 haha, not looking to rattle.. just roll As willie says - more for show than anything. Just think it would be cool to have a NOS looking tank in the back So, I'm definately going with that.. just needed to know what else was needed, if anything to make it 'work' Thanks -Eric Eric 93 Cad Seville 100K 95 Chev Blazer 143K [garaged summers] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacseville Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 yes, your cd player will be able to "handle" that, as long as you have pre-out on the back of your receiver. (if you look at the back of it, it the two raised circle things... one is red and one is white) this is where you get your signal from (your signal wires run from your cd player to your amp) you will also need to get a wiring kit with 8 or 10 gauge wires. the kit you get should include enough wire to get from battery of your car to the amp, and another 3 ft. piece of ground wire. you need to start looking at small 2 channel amps tho. are you getting 1 or 2 of these subs? I recommend only getting 1 since it's 4 ohms, and that's what 2 channel amps are designed to run at in bridged mode. if you get all this then you'll need to set the gains on the amp. this is so important! if you buy all this stuff post again, and i or somebody will help you set your gains. i blew my last 2 S10L7 solobarics in a ported box b/c my gains were not adjusted correctly. (it wasn't my fault, my gain cd was wrong, i swear!) toggle switches are not a bad idea either. a toggle switch will be placed in the remote turn on wire that goes from your cd player to the amp. basically when the cd player turns on, it will send 12v to your amp to tell it to turn on. that's how your amp comes on when your cd player does. the toggle will put in this wire, and now you can turn your amp on and off! (handy when the are in the vicinity!) here are some brand of amps to stay away from: Profile rockwood Pyle Lightning Audio Ultra Liner No name amps Coustic Digital Audio Boss etc, etc, etc. here are some decent cheap amps Sony Lanzar Bazooka Infinity older ones Fosgate older ones clarion just about any wiring kit will do let me know if you need help picking any of these things! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacseville Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 dynomite 98, what u runnin?(brands etc) do you have a bandpass or ported box? did you do your install? please share pics! I've got a fosgate 500bd on ebay right now if you need a monster amp?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K2K Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 Bah... You all think you have the coolest systems I have a Bose Delco Gold Series sound system *with* a cassette player and a CD player. Yea, didn't think so. I think the factory sound system is pretty good, mainly because I don't know what the hell is what when it comes to sound systems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie Hank Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 However, I'm not sure how to 'cut out' the signal but will my current set up be able to handle the sub? Eric, Its hard to diagnose your current set-up with the Blaupunkt, based on what you are telling me,...but I will make a suggestion. You happen to have a '93 Seville, the same car I have, and they incorporate a strange stereo system (standard system), that is, there is no "head unit", but a control panel in the front and a rear amplifier in the back right corner of the trunk. It really sucks when it comes to modifying as there is no room in the dash for a standard head unit, so I'm not sure how you got the Blaupunkt to fit in the dash. I'll start off by asking a few questions: a) Did you install the Blaupunkt ? Yes - proceed with the next question No - seek some advice from a local mobile audio store Does your installed Blaupunkt unit have a subwoofer preamp-output? Yes - continue to step d No - go to step e c) Do you want to consider an easy way out? Yes - go to step f No - go to step b d) The subwoofer preamp-output should already have a low-pass filter setting, therefore run these pre-outs to your new subwoofer amplifier pre-ins and wire accordingly. e) Now, I read your shortcut to Crutchfield's Blaupunkt BPV-660 and it only lists rear preamp-outputs, which lends me to believe you do not have subwoofer pre-outs on this head unit (lower cost unit). What this means is, you considering purchasing a cross-over unit (box), that will tap either the front two channels or rear two channels, and allow you to filter out the frequencies you want to divert at a subwoofer range (150 hertz or less, the hard-cores with 12" subwoofers or more cut-out at 75 hertz or less), and send this pre-amplifier signal into your subwoofer amplifier. Basically, I did this in my '73 Mustang. I directed the head-unit front speaker pre-outs to a cross-over box front speaker pre-in, and it directed that to the front speaker pre-ins of my front speaker amplifier. The cross-over box also allowed me to pick either the front speaker pair or rear speaker pair pre-ins to be pre-outed to the subwoofer pre-in amplifier. I happened to use an MTX 4-channel cross-over with subwoofer, and all my amps (3, one front amp, one rear amp, and one subwoofer amp), to perform this. f) If everything is working fine, and you want a cheap easy way of handling this, ...you may want to consider this.. There are some "cheap" amplifiers around that will take a "high" input, that is, an amplified signal. Some amplifiers will state "high" versus "low" inputs. A "low" input is what I discussed before, a pre-amplifier input. A "high" input would be tapping directly from the the wires of a speaker. You could consider "tapping" off the inputs of the rear speaker wires of the rear deck of your Seville, and feeding this into the "high" input side of a cheap amplifier (Good amplifiers will not allow this). I did thid on my '93 Seville, because I did not not want to go through the agony of "gutting"the system. And guess what, the system sounds much better than the factory system, but still sounds like "crap" compared to my Mustang. Bottom line, I have never heard a factory system that sounds really good, the Monsoon system in my 2002 SS Camaro sounds pretty good, but it won't get your attention like my Stang. I've read all kinds of posts talk'in about how well the Cadillic Bose system sounds, but I have written it off as a bunch of old men who listen to "Cher", or "Neil Sedaka". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie Hank Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 Bah... You all think you have the coolest systems I have a Bose Delco Gold Series sound system *with* a cassette player and a CD player. Yea, didn't think so. I think the factory sound system is pretty good, mainly because I don't know what the hell is what when it comes to sound systems. Wow, you have an OEM system....how cooollll... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacseville Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 good reply willie... very organized! *pat on the back* maybe he should look at a powered subwoofer?! that'd sure make things a bit easier! local audio store has kits to install a cd player in the caddy. i had a 93 deville, and i just went to local audio store, and they had a kit just for my car. $16! and, it doesn't really matter if the Head unit doesn't have sub outputs. just buy an amp that does have the x-over. let me see if i can find a powered subwoofer that looks like nos bottle. i think there are some around. i don't think we should recommend that he try to get high level outputs! that's sure a lot of work and frustration for a noob! you know, local audio store, if you buy all this stuff, will install it for like $75 or so! seeming like a better and better idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentham Posted March 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 wow - i might need to print this one out lacseville - I do need some help picking one out.. Ofcourse, I'll go for one on trust eBay so steer me in the right direction .. Willie, sorry for making you write all those steps! I had it professionally installed but yes, I know they did run a lot of wires from the trunk. I saw 'Legacy' amps on eBay for 29$ I'm assuming those are the no name brand ones hah -Eric Now what? Eric 93 Cad Seville 100K 95 Chev Blazer 143K [garaged summers] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacseville Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 okay, just let me know what kind of money you are working with. i can find lots of amp to fit your application. all my links will be to ebay, b/c I LOVE ebay!! giggles yes, legacy is a big no no! i'll look for amps and wiring kits, but for now here's link to ebay where you can get your nos woofer for 145+25 for shipping. save yourself $30 or so! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=32823 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie Hank Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 good reply willie... very organized! *pat on the back* maybe he should look at a powered subwoofer?! Interesting you mentioned that. I bought an 8" powered subwoofer from Mobile One for $ 100 on sale about four years ago, and tapped off the rear speakers to install it (it had high inputs, basically the amplfier knocks the signal back down and re-amplifies it). Nothing to brag about, but a notable improvement from the OEM standard system. I will say this, I replaced the rear deck OEM 6 x 9's with Pioneers for another $ 100, and it made a world of difference. OEM speakers truly suck !!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentham Posted March 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 The less the money, the better.. I wasn't planning on needing an amp, but if I must.. then I must under a $100 for an amp pushin it? Again, I'm going for looks.. not that I want it to sound like crap but I'm not trying to win a bass competition... yet -Eric Eric 93 Cad Seville 100K 95 Chev Blazer 143K [garaged summers] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie Hank Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 The less the money, the better.. I wasn't planning on needing an amp, but if I must.. then I must under a $100 for an amp pushin it? No offense, but if $ 100 is your budget, I've been wasting my keystrokes,...buy a CD Player and headphones..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentham Posted March 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 haha - no offense taken. I'm saying $100 for the amp. then $150 for the sub and 20-30 for the wiring.. that's.. 300 total roughly. I'm willing to go a little more.. Just tell me what I need Thanks -Eric Eric 93 Cad Seville 100K 95 Chev Blazer 143K [garaged summers] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacseville Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=39733 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=39733 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=39736 (my fav) http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=39737 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=39737 link for amps for your application http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=32808 this is the only link you need for wiring kit. knuconceptz is a relatively new company and they make the best wiring kits!! this kit has everything you need, and it's good quality stuff. i'll never buy stinger or streetwires again! this is all i run now! check these amps out. they are like the kind you need. you can look for some too. if you find one that you think is good, paste the link and i'll let you know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacseville Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 oh yeah, $100 for a decent used amp isn't unrealistic. just watch the auctions! let me post a few more. this is jensen brand. they aren't the top dog by any means, but i've heard them in a couple of my homeboys cars and they can make speakers thump. if i had a boat, i'd put a jensen amp in it. they're (dare i say) okay amps, for the money. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=18796 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=18796 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=18796 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=18796 these amps can be had for about 20 plus shipping! they aren't the best, but they aren't the worst. they will get your speaker bumping! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacseville Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 bentham, willie, fellas, i'm going to bed (it's 1:15 here)! bentham, look through this stuff, if you have any questions, i'll reply on my lunch break tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie Hank Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 bentham, willie, fellas, i'm going to bed (it's 1:15 here)! bentham, look through this stuff, if you have any questions, i'll reply on my lunch break tomorrow. I'm going to bed too, ......but "IT IS WRITTEN, SO LET IT BE SAID", Never buy used electrinic equipment.... Are you guys high or what ????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentham Posted March 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 Here I am again. Willie.. I agree, I would definately buy new. lacseville - great links! You even picked out a color scheme. I'll be watching those auctions and finding some more for myself. Thanks a lot you two. -Eric Eric 93 Cad Seville 100K 95 Chev Blazer 143K [garaged summers] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacseville Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 i have no problem buying amps used. usually either they work or they don't. you know they always see 12v and there's not much to screw up. never buy used subs. you don't know what kind of life they've had. wired properly, overpowered, underpowered, improperly enclosed, etc. used amps are a great way to go and i and many many other people buy them regularly and never have any problems. it's up to you of course, b/c if you buy new, then most of the time they'll have a pretty good warranty if you really screw them up! willie, i agree with you about buying most car electronics used, do you object to used amps as much? if so, why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie Hank Posted March 6, 2004 Report Share Posted March 6, 2004 willie, i agree with you about buying most car electronics used, do you object to used amps as much? if so, why? The only issue with buying a "used" amp is you don't know the intelligence level of the previous owner. The could have tried to "bridge" a "non-bridgeable" amp, wired it to a string of speakers wired in parallel (which could over-drive and bloe it), I guess its the same rationale why parts houses won't allow returns. But, I did buy a "returned" JVC power amp several years ago from an audio shop, I figured they would be credible and the price was super cheap,...and alas,..it worked. I just gave it to a 16 year old son of a friend who is putting his first system in. As for my Mustang, I completed gutted my first installed system (back in 1990), and replaced it 3 years ago. I have a Pioneer head unit w/remote, a Pioneer 6-CD changer, 3 MTX amplifiers (700 watts RMS @ .02 THD), an MTX cross-over, 1/2 farad capacitor, 110 amp alternator and 8 speakers in total. I have Infinity "separates" tweeter/mid-range speakers in Q-pods on the passenger floorboard (satellite cross-overs in trunk), a set of 6 x 9 speakers in the front door panels, and 5-1/4" co-axial speakers in the back. The front fours speakers are driven by an MTX 4 x 50 watt amplifier, the back set of speakers are driven by an MTX 2 x 50 watt amplifier, and the two 10" passive Bazookas in the trunk are driven by 2 x 100 watt MTX amplifier "bridged" to 400 watts. One day I drove up to an Autozone parts store playing "The Ocean" by Led Zeppelin, and almost the whole store came out to see what the racket is. I have to admit, it sounds pretty incredible. I spent $ 300 alone for Rockford-Fosgate "Obsidian" twisted pair and shielded interconnects. Anyhow, its fun. I have to add a second battery though, my voltage drops on deep bass hits, which hampers battery charging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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