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Ignition fixed


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Well I know this is a new thread, but I feel it works best for clarity.

I had to replace my ignition lock cylinder due to a spring cap coming off, which would not let me turn the switch to the off position.

I replaced the cylinder pretty straight forward if you have the manual, and got it all back togeather and had a ton of problems. no retained power, no power door locking, alarm chimes going all the time, key in key out, car on car off it did not matter, and no brake lights, tail lights ok, turn signals ok, trunk mount light ok.

After much head scratching and manual looking, I contacted Logan of Logan Diagnostics, What a super guy!!!

Logan told me to look into the turn signal switch, and going back to the manual, there it was in black and white, the brake switch sends a signal to the trunk mount light on a straight circuit, and the for the regular brake lights it runs throught the turn signal switch. Logan also suggested that the alarm buzzer assembly in the steeering column might be what was making my alarm chines and security light go off. Since i had to go back into the column, I pulled the buzzer assembly, it is a little white plastic thing with 2 copper contact springs on it, somehow they had been pushed togeather and was making a complete circuit.

I straighten and reinserted the buzzer assembly, replace the turn signal switch and put everything back togeather, and no alarms, my brale lights work, retained power works, and doors power lock and unlock now.

Now the only problem is no blower fan, I think I have blown the AC programmer.

For all those who may want to do the key clinder or turn signal switch, it is a very doable job, I would not try it unless I had the locl plate compressor and the manual. I would also pay close attention to the alarm buzzer, and wiring layout for the key cylinder.

You can fish the pass key wires pretty easily through the steering column, but when you get to the turn signal switch connector, that is another thing all togeather, I ended up cutting the old connector off ato remove the old switch, and with much cussing and sweating I was able to fish the new connector down the column. If I had to do it over, I think I would cut the wires on the lower end remove the old switch, but I would tie a wire on the loose end to snake up the steering column, I would then cut the connector off the new switch and tie my guide wire to the loose end and pull back throught the column, then I would splice, wrp and heat shrink to the old connector wires. Logan says that is how they do it also.

I am working on my steps of what I did and will post when I get it ready.

So if you have any questions let me know and I will try to pass on what I learned the hard way.



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Thanks for the valuable info. And, of course, kudos to Logan.



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