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1996 DeVille Won't Start


BIL

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My wife said the car refused to start after driving it 3 times in the last 2 weeks but finally started after five minutes or so. Today we tried to start the car in the morning and the lights all work fine, all insturments are lit but we just get a click under the black plastic pannel on the drivers side under the hood, approximately over the wheel. The car only has 43,000 original miles. Help! Anyone have a suggestion?

BIL

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My wife said the car refused to start after driving it 3 times in the last 2 weeks but finally started after five minutes or so. Today we tried to start the car in the morning and the lights all work fine, all insturments are lit but we just get a click under the black plastic pannel on the drivers side under the hood, approximately over the wheel. The car only has 43,000 original miles. Help! Anyone have a suggestion?

BIL

This should be easy to fix. Remove the battery connections and clean them especially the positive terminal. The positive terminal has two cables connected together by a lead lug, take the red plastic insulator off. Watch how it comes apart and either soak all the parts in baking soda and douse with water or go to your local parts place and buy battery terminal cleaner (preferrably) and follow the instructions on the can. Put it all back togther and tighten the connectors very good.

I have a 96 and now clean mine every 3 months or so, for some reason corrosion builds up at the positive cable. My battery is fairly new also... Report back your results... Mike

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Sounds like the battery is dead or, like Scotty said, corrosion.

I know this sounds like a broken record, however, in my opinion, the first thing is to check for diagnostic codes even if the problem seems obvious.

To enter the diagnostic mode.

1. Turn ignition "ON."

2. Depress the "OFF" and "WARMER" buttons on the Climate Control Center (CCC) simultaneously and hold until the segment check appears on the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC).

Depressing the "OFF" button on the CCC will stop the system selection process and return the display to the beginning of the trouble code sequence. You can do this at the end of the process. When it starts asking questions just depress the "OFF" button as all you want to see is at this time is codes.

Post the codes, if any, or go to the following link:

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html

Scroll down to the "GM Diagnostic Trouble Code Lists."

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The starter or battery (failing under heavy load) may be bad, but the first thing to eliminate are poor battery cable connections.

Always remove the Negative (ground) cable first, and replace it last. This will avoid accidental "arc welding" with your wrench, when unbolting the Positive cable.

As per Scotty's advice, also unbolt the ground cable end from the block. Clean the cable end and the stud with wire brush.

Verify the stud is tight to the block, and then place the cable back on the stud and tighten securely.

-George

Drive'em like you own 'em. - ....................04 DTS............................

DTS_Signature.jpg

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Always remove the Negative (ground) cable first, and replace it last.  This will avoid accidental "arc welding" with your wrench, when unbolting the Positive cable.

This is always a good practice, and it also minimizes the potential for the battery exploding. Good advice, its something I do without even thinking.

In addition, I think I will look for my grounds also, and clean them up, I will be under my car today...

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Sure sounds like a dead battery. You didn't mention if the battery is original. If it is, like Guru says, "It doesn't owe you a dime". Infact, it has long out lived it's life expectancy and should be burried with honors.

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It was the battery cable. Ididn't check it first becfause the battery is only 6 months old. Live and learn.

Thanks

BIL

Explain what you mean when you say battery cable, was it corroded? THanks

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I had to change my battery because I beleive the dealer over tightened the positve terminal and pulled the ring out of the battery. Acid had been dripping out of the battery for weeks until one day it wouldn't start and I got out to jump it and noticed all the corrosion and grabbed the positive cable and it came off in my hand. It must have been hanging on by a prayer. The battery was replace at a prorated cost of 50 dollars from a Chevy dealer I got it from. I didn't say anything to the Caddy dealer because how do you proove this one.

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