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Rough Acceleration


epluzy

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I just finished a cross country drive from San Diego to West Palm Beach and a the Caddy made it without a problem, and it was pulling a trailer the whole way. I stopped the night in Gainesville and that is when I first noticed the problem.

The engine runs rough at idle, almost like a cylinder might be missing and when accelerating the rpm's increase in steps not smoothly. the condition is worse when just starting the car and improves as the car runs. The night before the problem occurred I went over some serious metal joints in a bridge coming down that tossed everything around in the trailer and may have caused the problem. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

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my first thought would be the obvious, plugs & wires. When mine developed a mis at about 92K, though the plugs were needed they didn't cure the problem. New OEM wires did. This was shortly after having the fuel rail replaced. I'm sure moving the old wires around caused it. Have you recently had your fuel rail recall done? How old are your wires?

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I agree with Ranger that it's probably ignition related, thats a long ride and the engine gets hotter than normal, it can be a whole host of problems. First try parking the car in a pitch dark location and look for flashing of the ignition wires, you might want to spritz them with water and a spray bottle. Look around the coils for arching. Where ever you see a wire touching metal move it and look at the wire. A good tool for testing spark is an ignition spark tester, check it out here:

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/the404.html

This tool will help you to isolate a bad wire or coil, never pull a wire out of the coil and let sparks fly around, you can do other damage, like blow your blower motor with one nicely placed 40,000 volt shot.

Finally if you find nothing you may need to pull each plug as you may have blown the end off or cracked one...

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I haven't misted any of the wires as I am waiting for dark. I did inspect the wires and plugs and found oil around the outside of the spark plugs. I think that it might be caused by a damaged head gasket and so this fix has moved out of my range of mechanical knowledge. I wanted to see if this seems to be an accurate assesment and if this is a diffucult job changing the head gasket.

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Don't jump to conclusions, if you had a bad head gasket you would have other problems other than an engine miss! Don't look for trouble! And whatever you do, DO NOT even SUGGEST that to a mechanic if you take the car to someone for the miss.... good luck

the oil around the spark plugs is not related to the head gasket

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I just checked and there are small sparks coming from one of the wires. The number eight cyclinder, which also happens to have the most oil deposits. And I have had the fuel rail recall performed. Any idea where the oil might be coming from and if it is a serious problem.

thanks

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Not sure were the oil is on the plug wire but possibly from the cam cover. Best to stay with OEM wires I have heard. Best price I found was at http://www.rockauto.com. $122 including very fast shipping. F.Y.I., If you still have the original blower motor in your car, Do not let the wires get any closer than neccassary to the blower. They will take it out rather quickly. Actually, I think it was the misfiring wire that took it out. My blower went out shortly after my mis developed. Changing it was not fun (or cheap).

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just finished replacing the wires and the car runs great again. Thanks. Two questions? does it matter if the wires are touching the cam covers and if the oil is coming from the cam cover seal, how quickly do I need to get that fixed. Thanks.

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just finished replacing the wires and the car runs great again. Thanks. Two questions? does it matter if the wires are touching the cam covers and if the oil is coming from the cam cover seal, how quickly do I need to get that fixed. Thanks.

Great job I am glad you got it fixed. I would want to stop the oil leak asap. The wires should not touch metal, if you can get to a junk yard and get some high temp wire loom, you should put it over those wires where they touch, Mike

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When they replaced my fuel rail they added the plastic wire looms that where missing. I am quite sure you can buy them at Autozone, Napa, Pep Boys etc. I think more than keeping them from touching the cam covers, you want to keep oil off of them.

How quickly you need to fix the oil leak depends on how badly it is leaking and how tolerant you are of oil leaks.

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Be careful of the everyday wire loom, it has a low temp melting point and melts easily, the OEM stuff they use does not melt easily..

I go in tomorrow for my fuel rail recall, wish me luck...

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Be careful of the everyday wire loom, it has a low temp melting point and melts easily, the OEM stuff they use does not melt easily..

I go in tomorrow for my fuel rail recall, wish me luck...

The Fuel Rail Recall on my Deville when smoothly and quickly this morning. Odd but the car seems to start faster and seems a little quicker, but maybe this is my imagination. It was in at 8AM and I had it back at 11AM, not bad... No cross selling no service offerings, I was surprised.

The lady in front of me was in for an oil change and they hit her with the "30,000 mile service package" and they wanted $460, she nearly dropped over... It included throttle body cleaning, injector cleaning, oil, filter, grease job among other things. I was going to tell her, give me $230 and Ill be glad to do it for you! :lol:

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