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quick question for the enthusiasts. what can i do to get colder air in my northstar. sometimes when i track it, i ghetto rig a heat shield out of a small wet towell in the freezer for about 20 minites untill it frezzes over and mold it over the hose and air box. but that lasts for about 2 or 3 quater miles. anything permanent i can do.

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It takes longer than 17 minutes for someone to respond, so might wanna lay back on the bumping posts until a couple days has past with no response.

And, you can get some custom tubing going on and move the intake to a better spot, along with building a nice heat shield for it. I don't know if Katshot uses these forums, but he has a nice set up.

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An interesting question...

To begin with, I agree with K2K, that a better method might be to find cooler air to begin with (not under the hood ?)

But back to the IT (icy towel)

Have you inserted digital temperature indicators upstream and downstream of the IT at WOT - to see if there is actually a temperature differance?

Have you documented that the ET is lower or the speed is higher by molding an IT onto the intake?

I doubt that the plastic air intake flex hose is a good heat(cold) conductor. Aluminum or stainless steel flex hose could be used to improve the heat exchange but there are other challenges here.

The flex hose itself is probably too short (not enough surface area) for the job. Air is difficult to exchange heat - compared to almost any liquid. By the time the exchanger has enough surface area, the heat exchanger (like a gas furnace) is quite large and may have a significant pressure differential across it. This pressure drop negates any potentail benefit from the denser air. Even a small tube/shell or finned heat exchanger within the inlet air duct would probably cause excessive pressure drop.

One method to overcome the small heat exchange surface area is to increase the delta T, meaning find something a LOT colder than frozen H2O. Using the car's own refrigerant A/C to cool down the intake air, seems like a sure way to loose net power. However, If the stainless hose had an outer liner of stainless steel, than the annular space could have some liquid nitrogen -320F maybe, or frozen CO2 (dry ice) in an anitifeeze solution (like trichlorethelene perhaps... may need some flamibility data here) -100F maybe. The refrigerant (nitrogen or carbon dioxide) would gas-off quickly - but they might cool the air down significantly. Sure this assembly would be complex, expensive, potentially damaging to the car and generally hazardous in nature - but you asked!

This is all only theory and conjecture and not to be tried without trained, adult supervision.

Even if the air could be cooled (like a cold day), I think the MAF or whatever is measuring the air flow (oxygen content) - adjusts the fuel injectors to arrive at the correct ratio - regardless of temperature. In other words - the computer might undo whatever density increase due to temperature. However, the engine is essentaily an "air pump" and the more air (easy if it is denser) that it can pump - then the more horsepower (so I could be worng about the computer interferring).

Good luck :)

Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning.
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