Changed the TCC solenoid in my '00 Deville

[digital_dad]

Well, I finally decided to change my faulty TCC solenoid. I really just did this out of interest to see how difficult the job was and whether it was worth the effort for those who may be contemplating this job. I say Nay Nay.

I really believe that the fluid change had more effect on drive quality than the TCC replacement. I'm only guessing at this because I really can't feel any difference except in a much smoother shift pattern from 1st through 4th. Is there really a difference in total ride quality; I'm sure there is but it is indistinquisable to me, and I feel that I'm very sensitive when it comes to the way my cars feel like when I drive them. One thing I wished I looked at carefully before I did this is my RPM's before and after. I'm only going off memory, but I think it improved about 300 RPM on the Higway. I will be doing extensive Highway the week of June 8th to get a final number for you to compare off of. I was at about 2100 RPM to 2200 RPM at 70 to 75 before; I think. As a side note, while I was this far into the trans I changed my 1,2 & 3,4 and my 2,3 shift solenoids because of poor shift engagement in really cold weather.

Nice things about changing the TCC solenoid is that I was able to change the filter in the side of the trans that this solenoid sits and I was able to check the movement of all the parts inside the valve bodys in the trans. This gave me great confidence in the wear life of my trans, which is in excellent condition overall. I will say I'm suprised at the size of the shavings on the trans magnet. I'm used to only seeing a graphite powder size material buildup on the magnet and not actuall drill shavings. I had two or three very small spirals from a drill bit on the magnet which I would have never expected to be left from the factory washout.

Things necessary to remove in order to drop the engine far enough to do this job:

Remove splash shields

Unbolt driver side strut and brake lines from frame

Completely remove driver side trans mount

Unbolt steering gear universal at the rack; single 11mm bolt and slides right off (not easy to get back on)

Disconnect brake lines from Master Cylinder and remove from plastic retaining clips on frame on drivers side.

Undo main bolt to engine mount on passanger side: no need to unbolt the mount itself from the frame

Remove completely the radiator and radiator fans. Redirect coolent drip from dripping onto EBCM.

Remove gas lines from their retaining clips

Bend the back most O2 sensors heat sheild out of way

Unbolt the six engine mount bolts

Unbolt small metal coolent lines attached to side of trans to move out of way

Now slowly drop the engine just far enough on both sides to gain compelte access to the driver side trans pan. The passanger side does not need to come down near as far as the drivers side. As you bring the engine down be exceptionally carefull not to pinch or bend any brake, cooling or air lines. I did not disconnect the AC system because the lines were flexable enough to do this without doing anything with them. I just made sure they continued to feel free and mobil as the engine came down.

Charlie

[joeb]

you said disconnect brake lines from master cyl? does that allow air in the brake lines than? i have seen on other cars where you could just unbolt the MC from the brake booster and let it move. i did it on a dodge when i changed out the high mounted rack and pinion. i have to do the PCS on my grand prix and lowering the trans enough to get to the side cover seems similar.

[digital_dad]

Yes it does allow air into the brake lines, but I did not mind this because I wanted to flush my lines anyways. It is up to you on whether you do it the way I did or the way you did yours. Either way works, it is just yours you don't have to bleed the brakes after.

It has been along time since I've taken a Master Cylinder apart, and I remember the armature you have to discount from the brake pedal. I don't remember if this is connected to the booster or the cylinder? So I just chose not to get into that part, and to just bleed the system with fresh fluid.