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Scotty

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OK I have another post where I explained that I put a shorter serp belt on today to eliminate the AC compressor as my hub bearing went bad. Before it went bad I seriously overheated the compressor and it was smoking from the hub rubbing against the compressor housing. Changing the belt, I pulled the battery, cleaned the positive battery terminal as it was corroded and all seemed to go fine.

Tonight when I was coming home I hit some heavy traffic and I checked my coolant temp and it was 257 degrees :o I immediately got over to side roads and then back to an expressway and while I was moving I was fine 196 to 201, once I stopped in my driveway I let it idle and it hit 240 and the fans did not kick in. What happened and what should I look for. Could the compressor overheating (the AC was OFF as it was no longer cooling) cause an electrical problem somewhere.

One more thing, there are two positive battery cables piggy backed on top of each other why is that? Where is the cooling fan relay? Thanks, Mike

:blink:

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By the way I checked the codes and here is what I found

PC0603 History

PC1660 Was Current this morning now history

IP1552 History

PZ1552 History

Thanks, Mike

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This gets deeper all the time, I just went to the codes and found this

DTC P1660 Cooling Fan Control Circuits ( I had a CURRENT PC1660 this morning and now its a HISTORY PC1660), SO it seems to me that If the PC1660 is the same as the DTC P1660 Cooling Fan Control Circuits I had this problem for the last day or so as the light came on recently. I just assumed that it had something to do with the AC compressor. Any Ideas, boy do I need a manual. If anyone has this DTC P1660 Cooling Fan Control Circuits description I would appreciate it, Good Night, Mike

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If anyone has this DTC P1660 Cooling Fan Control Circuits description I would appreciate it

I can look it up for you tonight, Mike, when I get home, if someone hasn't posted it by then. Yes, you DO need a manual! :)

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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If anyone has this DTC P1660 Cooling Fan Control Circuits description I would appreciate it

I can look it up for you tonight, Mike, when I get home, if someone hasn't posted it by then. Yes, you DO need a manual! :)

Thanks Jason! I think I found it! I went out this morning and pulled the A/C Comp fuse and it was blown. I must have blown on Thursday and that is why I lost my AC, but I did not realize that I lost my Cooling Fans also. I guess the hub bearing heated up the clutch and clutch windings and shorted them out and the clutch just drew too much current and blew the fuse. The fuse controls the AC Compressor Relay, Cooling Fan Relays 1, 2, and 3 and Compressor according to my owners manual. This was a big wake up call for me, when something is wrong, don't let it fester and keep driving it! Thanks!

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Any AC compressor experts feel free to chime in, I am lost. As I said, I found the A/C Comp fuse blown and replaced it. That fuse controls the AC Compressor Relay, Cooling Fan Relays 1, 2, and 3 and Compressor according to my owners manual. My compressor hub bearing totally went and my compressor over heated and began to smoke. I can only imagine that the clutch assembly overheated and the windings melted and fused, which is probably the cause of the fuse blowing. I changed the fuse this morning and ran it for awhile with the AC off. I assume that with the AC off, the compressor will not run, maybe I am wrong. The fuse blew again meaning most importantly that I do not have any cooling fans. I have not removed the power lead from the compressor yet but will later tonight to see if the fuse still blows. Any ideas? If the AC is off will the 'system' try to jog the compressor momentarily for any reason thereby blowing my fuse again? Thanks, Mike

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Here is an update, as I said I took my compressor out of the serp belt loop with a shorter belt (6K739) and replaced the 10 AMP AC Comp fuse that controls the cooling fans and compressor clutch. Even though I kept the AC off, the AC Comp fuse blew.. So thinking and assuming that the 'system' must jog or probe the compressor even though the AC is off and it blew the fuse, because it is likely the clutch windings were shorted out from being over heated so badly, I disconnected the electrical connector from the compressor. I just drove all over and she seems to be working just fine, let it idle for 30 minutes and then drove it again. The fans cycle on and off as expected. So far so good and the AC1660 code is gone. Will advise if I lose my cooling fans again, I am a little concerned that I may have damaged one of the three cooling fan relays from increased current draw from the clutch windings as they began to short out, but all looks fine so far. Any ideas, or insight into my theories or line of thinking would be appreciated. Mike :blink:

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As can be seen in this photo the hub has been badly overheated the red powdery deposits all over show the metal to metal grinding that took place. The bearing is totally shot as the hub just flops around. I understand from another posting that the hub can bind and shatter. I have been having whining, and growling for over a year, and it sounded like it was coming from the power steering pump, well, now I know that the sound can radiate everywhere, as my engine is quite as a mouse, and all whining is gone. I thought all you out there would like to see my experience on this.

From this experience I strongly recommend that if you are getting a whining, you eliminate the AC compressor by utilizing the 6K739 short belt. For $30 you can quickly diagnose the whine, and either eliminate the compressor as the source or find that it is the compressor immediately. The hub can be replaced very easily and you can eliminate the big expensive job that I now have....this is no longer a hub problem, it is a hub/clutch assembly, and probably a seal, so it makes sense for me to replace the compressor, Mike

post-3-1086367527.jpg

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So thinking and assuming that the 'system' must jog or probe the compressor even though the AC is off and it blew the fuse

Under some conditions, the PCM will engage the compressor clutch during cranking to help purge any liquid refrigerant that might have accumulated in the compressor. Liquid refrigerant will usually migrate to the lowest/coolest areas, and as ambient temperatures start to rise in the morning (assuming the car has been parked for some time), heavier components will tend to warm-up the slowest. If the initial engagement occurred at a higher speed, the resulting slugging would produce an objectionable noise; this happened in the case of my 1989 Century (3300) quite often, so I installed a switch to activate the compressor relay during cranking.

The quickest solution would have been to remove the A/C relay.

___________________________________________________

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The quickest solution would have been to remove the A/C relay.

"The quickest solution would have been to remove the A/C relay". NOW you tell me!! Getting the connector off the compressor involved disassembling half the car! (inspection panels, splash shields, not too mention getting the connector off in a tight spot, etc) I am getting to know her well though, LOL....

Thanks for the information regarding the system purging the liquid now it makes sense as to why the fuse blew with the AC switch off! Mike

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Since you are right there at the compressor why not just pull the hub/clutch assembly off and see what the seal is like. If you don't notice any signs of leaking and the system is still pressurized then the seal at the compressor is probably fine. Just do the hub/bearing/clutch unit on the compressor and you are back in business.

Thanks bbobynski, maybe the noise I was hearing was not internal to the compressor, but the hub all along. You don't think that seriously overheating the seal like this will cause a problem either immediately or over time? Thanks, Mike

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Thanks, I have the hub removal tools for the 91, do you happen to know if those removal tools fit my 96? Maybe Ill pull it apart in place and look it over. Thanks again, Mike

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