micahdaniel Posted October 4, 2007 Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 1- My shop manual says I need a special tool because the coil can cause severe injury if the motor/regulator is removed without it. Can I do the job with normal tools or do I need the special tool? 2- The reason I'm in here is because when I try to lower the window I just get a click noise at the control. I took the wires off the motor and found 12 volts there constant when the control was activated. This makes me suspect that there's something in the control that detects an over current situation at the motor and gives the click noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrez00 Posted October 4, 2007 Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 did you try holding the window button down and at the same time slam your door shut? Worked for me and problem solved ever since. If you are in complete control..... you are not going fast enough.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKcat Posted October 4, 2007 Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 Well, again, sometimes plain old logic is the best fix. We have been having a nightmare with our windows since last Saturday. We first thought it was a loose or broken wire to the driver window; then decided maybe it was the main switch; still not sure. Today at lunch, I tried your theory; guess what???? The darn thing worked It still seems like the windows are on delay. Before, they were "instant down" as soon as you pushed any button; now it is like they are on a delay; just a hesitation maybe before they go up or down; but at least they do work right now!!! My "other car" 1968 Pontiac GTO, 400, 4 speed, 366 h.p., matching numbers car *Get well soon, John Force!!!* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stsjoe Posted October 4, 2007 Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 Mic, just remove the 3 nuts holding the motor/regulator and it comes right out. I didn't understand why they say to watch the coil spring, I did mine and didn't touch the coil, no need. I think your manual will have a blurb about installing the new motor with the window 1/2 up or all the way down, can't remember Easy job Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleishman Posted October 4, 2007 Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 What he said ^ Before you buy a new motor, swap the wires around on the connector and make sure that the motor is really broken. If it goes up but not down, or vise versa, then you may have a fault in your switch. What happened to my drivers side door window: It would go down but not up, slamming the door worked for a while but finally I had to really fix it. After finding out that the motor would push the window back up if I switched the wires, I decided to take apart my switch. There are three layers of snapped together pieces that finally lead you to the circuitry. Each switch has a spring loaded plastic fulcrum that rocks back and forth when you push up or down, the end of the plastic snaps a copper connection directing current through to the motor. The drivers side window spring loaded plastic piece had worn out to the point where it didn't push the copper connections together anymore for the up direction. After some filing, stretching of springs, and cleaning of connections, I reassembled and everything has worked great since. I hope this helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrez00 Posted October 4, 2007 Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 Well, again, sometimes plain old logic is the best fix. We have been having a nightmare with our windows since last Saturday. We first thought it was a loose or broken wire to the driver window; then decided maybe it was the main switch; still not sure. Today at lunch, I tried your theory; guess what???? The darn thing worked It still seems like the windows are on delay. Before, they were "instant down" as soon as you pushed any button; now it is like they are on a delay; just a hesitation maybe before they go up or down; but at least they do work right now!!! Always good to read i managed to help someone! But as you already mentioned, the delay could mean this fix will eventually not work anymore. but for the mean time......... Marc. If you are in complete control..... you are not going fast enough.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcobz28 Posted October 4, 2007 Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 I bet you the motor is getting power, it's just going dead and doesn't have enough torque to move the window. I just finished fixing 2 of my windows that were doing this. (1 doing that, 1 totally dead). They would move an inch or two, and then just crap out. And it would take a good hour before I could get them to move another inch or 2. You don't need any special tool or touch that coil spring. It's just three 10mm bolts holding the regulator on. It's SOOO simple to change out. Go get a new motor, pop it on, and I bet you the window will work. If you take off your old motor, but keep it plugged into the harness, don't be fooled if you see that it still spins just fine. It had no load on it. Make it work against the weight of the window, and it will crap out. I think you need a new motor. I got mine from a bone yard for $15 with a 30 day guarantee. They are like $80 new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
micahdaniel Posted October 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2007 Just want to be sure, please refresh this page and look closely at my picture at top. I'm removing the red circled bolts, not the green circled nuts, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
micahdaniel Posted October 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 It was the green circled nuts. It was extremely easy. I did it with the window up. A local junkyard was going to charge me $50 -- what a racket! I got a new lifetime warranty replacement for $55.99 at Autozone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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