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Okay i finally pulled out my codes

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P052/P109 PCM - keep Memory Alive Reset

Battery was likely disconnected - not a problem.

P071 - MAP Sensor Fault Intermittant

Probably not a problem unless it resets after clearing the codes.

P094 - Transaxle Shift 'A' Solenoid Problem

Check your fluid after a through warm up. Add if necessary, do not over fill.

If problem persists after the codes are cleared this could be a problem that needs attention.

P137 - Loss of ABS/TCS Data

Invalid data received by PCM for 5 seconds.

I would check for loose or damaged wire in the ABS area.

Maybe someone else has a better idea on what to look for here.

S026 - Right Rear Damper Solenoid Short to Ground or Open

Look for damaged wires or connection pulled apart. Open connection and clean throughly,dry and reconnect.

S036 - ELC Compressor short to Ground or Open

See not above, these connections are in the same location, damaged wires?

No ACP - Means no errors

No SIR - Means no errors

No TCS Data - see rematrks on P137

If its History, don't worry.

Clear all codes.

Exit the diagnostic mode by pressing Auto.

Try the above suggestions to fix problems.

Drive around and see which codes may reappear.


Drive'em like you own 'em. - ....................04 DTS............................


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You didn't mention that your car would not go into overdrive, you just asked what the codes you retrieved meant.

As far as the P094 code, it sounds like your transmission is obviously having a problem. It may be that you need to replace your solenoid and/or its mounting bracket.

Try searching for "solenoid repairs" or similar, it has been discussed before.


Drive'em like you own 'em. - ....................04 DTS............................


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Your "current" I032 means loss of ABS/TCS data.

According to my manual it means one of three things.

1.) open in ckt 800 between EBTCM and DERM and a second open between RSS module and EBTCM

2.) open or short in EBTCM power or ground circuits.

3.) a faulty EBTCM


EBTCM - Electronic Brake & Traction Control Module

DERM - SIR controller

RSS - Road Suspension System

SIR - Supplemental Inflatable Restraint

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Also your P094 probably resets itself when you shut the car off therefore it would not be current unless you check the codes after it defaults to 2nd gear without shutting the car off. I know mine did. You most definatly have a solenoid problem.

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The code you should be conserned with is P094 :( The other codes should reset when you do a reset or disco the battery to reset the codes. Try that next.....clear all codes and check again after you have shift problem ;)


94 Seville STS

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Like Paul T. said , if your PO 94 code clears after you turn off the engine and then reappears after you restart the car and drive it then you have a solenoid problem.

You can tell if the code clears by one of two ways, 1st when you drive the car this code the PO94 will turn the check engine light on, it will happen when you are driving it and the ecm commands a shift into 4th or overdrive, now when you turn the car off it will clear this code from current to history and turn the check engine light off. So when you restart the car the check engine light will be off untill you drive it again.

2nd way drive car till chech engine light comes on, pull over check codes for current PO 94, shut car off and restart, check codes again PO 94 should be history not current.

Here are a listing of some of the post onn instructions from the old archive on how to replace the solenoids, remember to replace both of them, if you do not have a manual I can email some of the info if you need it, mine is 94 STS, oh where you see the post for use of a tie wrap to replace shim stock which is used to slide the 1st/ rev band over, you can do this without this you just have to make sure you have that band moved over before you reinstall the valve body, it is a medium difficulty job, the hardest part is your mind set, if you are cool working on cars then you can do this job, if not search around for a MOM & POP/ Local trans shop that is familar with the 4t80e and get them to replace the solenoids.


Okay, before you drop the valve body, you must disconnect the solenoid harnesses and there is a

steel rod that actuates a valve spool that must be disconnected. It has a spring steel retainer

clip that must be lifted and slid back for the rod to be disconnect. BE CAREFUL, spool can slide

out, you do NOT want to damage this piece.

I would set the main valve body on a tabletop with cardboard (it will continue to drain fluid),

and slowly seperate them, so you can see where the check balls reside. Seven of the eight are

obvious as you can see their "seat" on the spacer plate. One does not have a seat but close

inspection of the valve body inner casting will reveal a "hemispherical" envelope the check ball

resides in.

Your shift kit should also include a retainer for "capturing" the plastic filter next to the

shift solenoids (the back 1/4" square tab, pull it out and replace). The retainer is picked up by

one of the valve body screws, its obvious, but did not come from the factory on my "93 STS.

If you spacer plate is not damaged, good for you, but I would not re-assemble if any of the

plastic coating is missing, its not worth the effort.

And finally, properly torque everything back together, SNUG IT FIRST, then torque.

One final thought, if you do lose a solenoid spring, the early nineties OLDS Aurora has the same

basic shift solenoid, hence they might also stock the solenoid retainer springs.

One more thought, when you deterime you need to split the valve body on the 4T80-E, there about

six different lengths of screws, I discovered this after the fact, and has to reconstruct where

they came from (not hard, but burnt some time).

Marking them may help...


Shift Solenoid Update Kit....GM Part # 24211355

Got mine from gmpartsdirect.com for 47.00 dollars including shipping. Paid 45.00 dollars for pan

gasket at dealer. Get 8 quarts of tranny fluid and a 10 lb bag of speedy dry. 4 to 5 hours on the

ground if you have not done it before. Get a manual. The procedure calls for shim stock to hold a

lever up on reassembly. I used a foot long tie wrap. Pretty straight forward but messy.

Jay Sullivan


The updated kit has A & B solenoids, a black plastic filter which resides next to them, a clamp

that "captures" the filter from backing out, and a screw that is slightly longer than the screw

you will replace in the valve body, when you add the clamp.



This is the post that answered the same questions for me. I bought the solenoids for $58 and 8qts

of tranny fluid. Did not replace anything else. It took a couple of hours to do and the local

shops were telling me $350-850 to do the job. That was after I had read here about how much work

was involved and ended up doing it myself.

Good luck

posted by.bk

Cadillac Year : 1993

Cadillac Model : STS

Message : Check out my response to Jan Olssen on 07/29/03. Not sure if your Aurora Tranny is a

4T80E, such as mine, but here are some tips:

a) the shift solenoid kit for the 4T80E tranny comes with a special bracket to hold the end of

the black plastic filter in, next to the shift solenoids, USE IT !!!, It should come with its own

bolt, which is slightly longer than the bolt you will be replacing.

B) do not LOSE the the solenoid clips, they might fly when you try to remove them

c) its a messy job, be prepared, fluid will continually leak from the valve body until you split

it, which you must do to replace the solenoids

d) When you split the valve body, the larger portion which the shift solenoids resides have 4

check balls, similar to 1/4" diameter ball bearings, don't lose them, they'll fly also if you are

not careful.

e) if you decide to replace the valve body spacer plate (recommended if high mileage), the second

split will also have to be performed, and it has 3 check balls

f) when you put the valve body back together it will be obvious where 6 of the 7 check balls go

to, there is a "seat" in the spacer plate they reside in. The last check ball resides in an

"as-cast" cavity near the shift solenoids, it will be obvious when you see it. Some people use

grease to retain the check balls, I didn't, I'm a "purist".

I bought the filter/gasket kit from a parts house, which came with a cork seal. The OEM pan seal

is a heavy duty plastic-coated steel and re-usable, so I pitched the cork filter.

Cost of job (bought parts from dealership):

1) shift solenoid kit, $ 65

2) valve body spacer plate, $ 35

3) tranny filter/gasket kit (3rd party), $ 18

4) recollect 12 quarts tranny fluid, $ 18

and about 4 to 4-1/2 of effort, however, I spent an hour looking for a solenoid clip....

I have two business associates who both have Auroras and they both spent about $ 350 a couple of

years ago, at a tranny shop, for the same job. It might cost you slightly more. I don't trust

others and nobody that gets paid working on cars is as meticulous as me, which is why I do my own

oil changes. In the end, I thought it was pretty easy, however, reading some posts, some people

have experienced problems, how well do you trust yourself ???

If you do it, pick a Saturday and take your time...


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what should i expect to pay for something like this??? went to the dealer and they quoted me $370 for everything...solenoids...trans fluid... labor...etc...does this sound like a good deal?? i will take it to the local trans shop to see if they can beat that price...

sorry guys...im not willing to get down under and risk breaking something else... :( ...if anyones from Southern California thats willing to come to my house to help me though, im willing to pay :D

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$370.00 is not a bad price from a dealer, you might get a slightly better price from a local tranny shop, you just need to check around.

Sorry I am in SC, so that is just a little to far to come.LOL

You can do this repair yourself, it is really not that bad, you just need basic knowledge and skills.



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Make sure the local Tranny shop is REPUTABLE and knows how to work on 4T80E trannys. Shop around because the hourly rate will determine the difference in price. You could save a little money by getting the parts yourself online.

I had mine done at a REPUTABLE mom & pop shop for $150 parts, labor, and fluid. I got an exceptionally good deal so do not expect to get a price that low. Shop around, who knows, and remember cheaper doesn't always mean better. Good Luck.

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