90vtwin Posted September 24, 2006 Report Share Posted September 24, 2006 Hi, after replacing both of my front wheel hubs, I was not getting C1225 for some time, but now it is back and I saw "service stability system' message and also at one time both "traction control" and 'ABS' lights came on. (as far as other codes I have U1000, which is generic). When replacing left front hub, I connected the wheel hub speed sensor to the wire using a 'hack' because the hub's speedsensor plastic cover broke off while I was installing it. I think this is not a problem, because if it would be the code would have come back immediately instead it comes back rarely (once in a couple of days). I am still getting a low pitch grinding noise once in a while when just going up from 0mph (never at any other speed). It is if though transmission gears, not hooking up, although the car moves as expected (I think). I have the electronicly-adjustible suspention on my '99 concorse, so can it be that this noise is coming from there? I do not know if this grinding noise is related to C1225 though. the car drives fine overall. The front wheel brakes and disks get real hot (like up to 300 degrees) but may be it is more or less normal (pads and the disks are completely new too). Thanks in advance for any ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted September 24, 2006 Report Share Posted September 24, 2006 .... When replacing left front hub, I connected the wheel hub speed sensor to the wire using a 'hack' because the hub's speedsensor plastic cover broke off while I was installing it. I think this is not a problem, because if it would be the code would have come back immediately instead it comes back rarely (once in a couple of days).... I would run a continuity check on the hub coil. You should see something like 850 to 1,350 Ohms. Inspect the "hack" very carefully. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted September 24, 2006 Report Share Posted September 24, 2006 If the brakes are getting real hot check the slide pins. Maybe you have a dragger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90vtwin Posted September 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2006 If the brakes are getting real hot check the slide pins. Maybe you have a dragger. thanks, what should be 'normal' temperature range for 'normal' driving on this car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted September 24, 2006 Report Share Posted September 24, 2006 If the brakes are getting real hot check the slide pins. Maybe you have a dragger. thanks, what should be 'normal' temperature range for 'normal' driving on this car? Hmm, not sure. I can check them tonight when I get home from work and post it then (about midnight). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted September 25, 2006 Report Share Posted September 25, 2006 OK, I just got home and checked the tempuratures as soon as I got in the garage before they had a chance to cool. The front rotors where around 125 deg. and the rears where around 150. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90vtwin Posted September 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2006 OK, I just got home and checked the tempuratures as soon as I got in the garage before they had a chance to cool. The front rotors where around 125 deg. and the rears where around 150. thank you, so I definetely have a problem with the brakes overheating... it is happening on both sides though, left and right (they are just a couple of degrees appart). And rear's are cooler and if I remember about the same temp as yours. so again, both things are bad (I just replaced both front wheel hubs, both brake rotors, both front brake pads.. so now the caliper hardware looks to be an issue) unlikely though that's causing my C1225... but I am ready to just keep driving it for now... if it turns out that my axels are bad, or brake calipers or tranny... then I guess I just got unlucky with the car.... so will see what happens... Thank you again for the follow up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted September 25, 2006 Report Share Posted September 25, 2006 Check the slide pins. That is the most likely culprit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90vtwin Posted September 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2006 What about the grinding noise, is this a result of Tranction Control engaging or, possibly, the cause, or completely independent? (I measured again the temp: both fronts are about 200 degrees, and both rears at 125) The Concours gets 27 mpg at 65 mph on highway, and and about 20.7 mpg when getting off the highway and driving about 10miles in the city traffic. So it appears at least that the brakes are not rubbing off any power/performance The C1225 is always together with the U1000 code, battery voltage is 11.8 (when the engine is off). No other codes. thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick7997 Posted October 1, 2006 Report Share Posted October 1, 2006 My traction control does make a little noise when it engages... not sure I'd call it a "grinding" noise, but it's a noise.... I would definitely take a good hard look at those slider pins in the calipers, and Ranger suggests... and make sure the correct silicone grease is being used... Also, 11.8 volts with the car shut off is too low.... you may want to have your battery tested, or just get a new battery..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted October 1, 2006 Report Share Posted October 1, 2006 If it was my car, I would treat the brake noise [and possible(?) temperature issue] and the C1225 as seperate items. Regarding the C1225: Have you done the Ohmeter test I suggested earlier? Have you triple checked the connector where the hub wires attach to the chassis cable? Can you measure the output voltage at the hub side of the connector (you should see approximately 100 mV when spinning the wheel by hand)? It is possible you have a defective hub right out of the box. Your 11.8 Volt battery reading is not an issue. I would expect Traction Control and ABS to be disabled by the C1225. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90vtwin Posted October 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2006 Hi, thank you for the followups I did not do the ohmeter tests yet and did not measure the output. I have tripple checked the connection. Actually when I first put it all together, I immediately received an error code suggesting that the sensor is disconnected, so I lifted the car back up and connect it with that hack (that's how I knew it was bad). Since then I did not receive the code for several days, then again I received it (in the history), and then cleared it, again it was OK for several days and then received it again. It appears that I receive it after I get that noise and ABS light on... however this I am not 100% sure about, as I did not stop and checked the codes after I received the ABS lights and the traction message. What leads me to think that this is not the hub is the fact that I was getting the same code before I replaced the hub. I have been reading the service manual and there may be other bearings in the axel or the stuff that axel connects to (I do not know what it is called) .. but I do not know if I can check or replace those myself (the Serv manual talks about the noises diagnostics but those are fall into 2 categories: either when making turns or constant -- mine is neither, as it is not constant, only from the start, and it is not when making turns it is when just going from 0 in a straight line). I have reported before that I have a pulsating feeling in my steering when slightly turning left-right-left-right when at about 30-40 mph, but I think that feeling is from the tires/balance... so I have stopped worrying about that for now. ------- I actually ordered the replacement pins, just in case but did not replace them when working on the hubs... Both wheels show the same temperature so if the pins are bad it is on both... -------- Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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