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Aftermarket Radio for Non Bose System

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If you are or plan to hook up an aftermarket radio and plan on retaining your features and a healthy data link "Don't use GMOS-6" This device is only for models that has a bose system per the manufacturer of this item. However, The OS2-GM32 will connect at the radio harness in your dash that was originally connected to the factory radio. Installation instructions can be found on the PAC website under the "technical docs" tab:


Also, if you click the "Description and Features" tab you will see al ist of the features of the module, which includes maintaining a "healthy" status on the data bus to avoid issues you have seen with the other module. $165.00 without steering wheel control.

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry if posted in the wrong topic area

After reading several post concerning aftermarket radio installation, I decided to follow the directions of another post I found on the net that really made since. I pulled my aftermarket radio and clip the 2 purple wires controlling the (Data Bus). I went to a local music store and purchased data wire "50 ft" and found that each wire inside of the purchased wire contained the 6 strings needed for each data line and a perfect match. (Think it was a 22 gauge), The roll actually had 2 lines and a ground which I discarded to only leave the 2 data lines in 1 single rolled. I visited a local salvage yard and purchased 2 connections that connect to the radio, both connections were different. (2 devilles from different years). I ran 2 lines that was direct from each data (purple) and sliced into the ground and orange wires and ran them to the trunk, where I placed the factory radio. The slot on the right hand side inside of the trunk with the black guard was a perfect fit. Cutting a box to fit the adapter from the bottom of the grey mesh I connected the wires to the connector from the salvage yard that matched my connector for my factory unit. The connector and the black guard held my factory radio in place perfect. When I turned my unit on, the unit in the trunk came on simultaneously and "WOW", my JVC sounded excellent with the right sounds coming from each speaker but I had to turn the center speaker back not to over power the others. I placed a piece of folded paper (THICK) behind the radio to keep it from cutting off by hitting the small over hang from the side trunk material. I also cut a box out of the black holder that was actually hold the factory radio in place so it could breath.

Each time the car starts both radios turn on letting the system blend together as a unit with the correct time. I previously posted that I upgraded all of my speakers, minus the center speaker and the sound is simply amazing. My only problem is I didn't bypass that factory amp behind the rear seat. Sometimes, I can hear it cutting on and off but my volume self adjust, so I'm cool with that until I get bored!

I've only had one problem a few moths ago, for some reason the factory unit in the trunk didn't turn on when I started the car and all kinds of faults (low battery, air bag, SES, theft and no dash indicators. I opened the trunk and the radio was off. I must have hit it while putting bags in the trunk, which gave me the idea of the thick paper behind the radio, and maybe removing the on/off knob completely only leaving the stud.

I hope this post can help someone having the same problems and or concerns...

BTY, I still have steering wheel controls from my purchased adapters.

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  • 3 months later...

Update.....How wonderful the SOUND!!!

My head unit that I placed in the trunk wasn't stable or secure which turned my unit off in the trunk when I hit a bump of any size which resulted in crazy codes... I cut a piece of the grey cushing off over top the knob and removed the knob to prevent any future problems. "Fixed" The only speaker I didn't replace was the center front 3 1/2 speaker, so I cut the wires going to that speaker which in fact was off setting my sound quality. My wire for the front center speaker was under the rear seat on the passenger side (Lt blue & yellow) I think. The quality of sound is crisp, powerful and very clear with much improvement from the standard OEM equipment.

To recap, I replaced all the door speakers, Side tweeters, removed the 10" sub and replaced it with my sub along with an amp for the sub only. My head unit has enough power to run the doors and tweeters with great power and clarity to peek performance. No codes and chimes retained.

Hope this can help someone looking to upgrade outside of the norm. Thank you winterset for the data line connection problem..

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  • 5 weeks later...


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