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P 0410 Secondary Air pump replacement


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Alright, I was getting a P0410 code...

Someobody thought they fixed it, and then the car sounded like a shop vac when you started it...

And then the shop vac noise stopped, and the code came back.

So, I guess I need an air pump....

Before I start, this car is a 2001 Eldorado. These pictures might or might not reflect your exact car.

Here we go.

First, jack up the car.
Then, remove the driver's side front wheel.
Then, remove the plastic guards inside the wheel well...

The part you're looking for is drivers side front, forward of the wheel well, tucked in next to where the lower front bumper area comes back towards the tire...

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC02253.jpg

There it is.

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A closer look.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC02255.jpg[/IMG]

This is the new part. See that thing on top, the little wing, with the bolt hole?? That's gonna be a pain. More on that later.

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That white thing is the air intake to the pump. We are looking at the bottom of the pump now, looking straight up.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC02257.jpg[/IMG]

These two bolts here bolt into the side of the housing for the air pump.

Now, pry off the while plastic intake. I broke some of the black plastic tabs, but the pump is going in the garbage, so no great loss there. Mine had a rubber hose on the intake, that ran up and behind the front headlight, and had a mesh "end" on it... I'm not sure if that's the newer water resistant deal or not. Whatever.

Once that's off, remove the two bolts in the picture. Or, you could remove those last. Not sure which would be easier.

Anyway, the next step is the bolt on the top. This is gonna be a problem.

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This is the bottom of the bolt you're trying to get. It's in a real tight spot.

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This is the top. Very very tight spot in there. Wrench barely reaches, and it's hard to move the wrench. The engineers who designed this stuff really should be in witness protection, for their own safety...

Sigh. Anyway, this will take patience to get off, but I eventually got it.

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The pump is unbolted. I thought I'd never see that....

Remove the power plug there, and the air line. Pump will now be free.

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This is a view of the spot where that bolt was. Real hard to see, but with everything out of the way, maybe you get the idea. You'll be working almost totally blind back there, so if you can picture in your mind what we're trying to do here, that may help some.

Put the air hose and the power plug onto the new pump.

Get it into place, and START the two bolts from underneath, that were accessible. Don't tighten them, just get them like halfway, to hold the unit roughly in place.

Then, you'll have to attach that bolt at the top.

I had a helluva time starting that. My hand is too big to get back there. I ended up using pliers and fingertips and patience. If you had an assistant with a smaller hand, that might help.

Anyway, once it's started, you can use the wrench again, and a ton of patience, to tighten that bolt. The wrench will barely move, so you need roughly 1 million small moves, like 3 clicks of a Gearwrench at a time. Take a break if you have to. It's a miserable long process.

Eventually, it will be tight.

Then go below, and tighten those two side bolts.

Your white air intake cover plate will snap onto the bottom, with a lot of pressure. I'm guessing you don't want that falling off or coming loose, so make sure it's on, and it's good.

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Oh my, the new pump is in. Just like we knew what we were doing!!! Heh heh!!

Next, clear the PCM codes. My air pump didn't want to start until I cleared the codes. Lot's of people have posted how to pull codes & clear codes from the dash, so we'll assume you know how to do that.

Once I cleared the codes, it started and ran fine with no "check engine" or MIL lap lit.

Success!!!

I was half expecting my relay to be blown, but it wasn't.

Yours might be though.

Driver's side of the engine bay, right on top of the shock tower almost, there is a little fuse panel. If you remove that whole big piece of plastic, however, you will expose a much more extensive fuse block. Like this:

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The relay for this is marked "Air" I believe. It's the grey rectangle to the right of the blue rectangle.

To check if the relay is any good:

Remove that from it's little mount (slide it down deeper into the car. Mine was really tight), and unplug it.

When you look in the end, you'll see 4 metal tabs.

One is labeled "30". Connect a voltmeter to the "30" and the one opposite that one (like 6 and 12 O'Clock, opposite). Set your voltmeter to resistance, Ohms.

It should, at this moment, be reading infinite ohms, like an open switch, or an open circuit.

Take two leads from your battery (or any 12 volt source, really) and touch those to the 2 remaining pins. Like at 3 and 6 O'Clock.

When they touch, the relay SHOULD click, and you should see the resistance on your Ohm meter drop to zero, or close to it. The click is the switch closing, and with the switch closed, you should HAVE continuity through those 2 pins. Thus, zero resistance. Or, to picture it another way, The relay flips the switch, which turns on the blower motor you just installed.

If this is unclear, google "how to test a relay automotive", and several decent youtube clips will come up.

My relay was good. It just wouldn't run that motor until I cleared codes. Which, I'm not gonna lie, did cause a few moments of panic. Maybe it'd be a good idea to plug 12 volts into your new motor first, and make sure it runs & works...

Now, with a new motor in there, the shop vac sound is gone. Actually, it runs so quiet, I had to put my hand on it to be sure it was running at all.

I got the motor on Amazon for around $120. They list it as a "fuel pump", but the part number matches the air pump. Within a few bucks of the Rock Auto price, except it's waaay easier to order from Amazon.

There you go. Now you can bask in the smugness of having done it yourself and saved a ton of money. Good Luck!

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