phillydude Posted June 28, 2004 Report Share Posted June 28, 2004 My sister-in-law gave me one of those "thump-in-the-trunk" speaker box set-ups for Father's Day last weekend, but before I just start "experimenting" with stuff, I figured it would be smarter to ask some questions. Here's all I know about what I have: it's a speaker cabinet with 2 10" woofers, 2 3.5" midranges, and 2 3" tweeters. There are the basic left and right speaker wire connectors on the back, and the packaging simply states "Max 600 Watts." I also have an extra set of the stock Bose rear speakers with the amps attached, which I was hoping I could use for parts, thinking the amps might be useful? Could it be as simple as splicing the wiring harnesses from the extra set of Bose rear speakers into the harnesses feeding the rear speakers that are already in the car, and then clipping the leads that connect the extra amps to the extra speakers (discarding the speakers) and wiring to the new speaker box off the extra amps? Of if not, what's my best bet for hooking this thing up without investing a lot of money... if it's a complete hassle, I'll just wait and upgrade the whole system at some point in the future. Feel free to PM me if you need more info. Thanks in advance... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfoo Posted June 28, 2004 Report Share Posted June 28, 2004 You could do it just like you said, but it probably won't sound as good.. Speakers will work in just about any configuration but you won't get the correct power or sound unless it's 'calibrated'.. What i mean is, if the resistance(ohms) on the amp doesn't match the speakers, or if you hook up multiple speakers on the wire which changes the resistance. It could do something like overheat the amp. or just sound like crap, or blow out a speaker if the amp is powerful. All you really have to do is check the rating on the amps against the rating on your speaker box. Also if the speaker box is the ONLY thing hooked up to the amp's l/r channels then you really don't have much to worry about. I don't think the OEM amp will drive those speakers very well which may 'sound like crap' but won't hurt anything. I would try taking the leads directly off the rear speakers left and right and hooking them right into the left and right of the speaker box just to see how it sounds. Since it's in the trunk you really have no need for the midranges and tweeters so you could probably open the box and disco those. Doesn't your car have a sub in the back? you could probaly disconnect the sub leads (i don't know if it's a dual coil or not) and hook them to the box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caddydaddy46 Posted June 28, 2004 Report Share Posted June 28, 2004 Don't do a band aid job on the system. You will not be happy with the results. I don't know if you have an after market head unit or not but I highly recommend that you buy a separate amp to power the box. This amp's power should be taken directly from the battery. As for as the signal source is concerned if you have an after market head unit run an RCA jack from the pre-out jacks on the head unit to the amp. I don't know what connections are available for the factory unit or if you can tap into anything in the trunk. I believe some amps allow you to use the speaker leads as a signal source, I've never did it that way. Bigfoo is right, you will not need mids and highs with the box in the trunk. There is no quick way just the right way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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