Bronson Posted June 10, 2004 Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 I have 97 Deville with Broken motor mounts, how difficult is it to replace them myself. It looks as if the two top mounts I could do myself, is it just a matter of replacing them one at a time. If I unbolt one side will the engine stay put so I can bolt the new mount in? I had all three mounts replaced on the STS at the dealership, was over $800.00, service contract paid for that but don't have same contract for Deville. I was hoping that if I could replace the top two myself all I would need then would be to have the third done, maybe I could save some bucks that way. Now I take it easy on the WOT Starts. Thanks for your time in responding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBuckley Posted June 10, 2004 Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 Are you talking about the dogbones on the top of the engine? If so, then those are very easy to replace, I have not seen one of those break, I have seen the rubber busings wear out though. I have a Seville and not a Deville, so I may be off as to what mounts you are concerned with. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronson Posted June 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 "dogbones" Yes. Can I replace just the bushings? Will I be able to just unbolt and replace as long as I do them one at a time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBuckley Posted June 10, 2004 Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 Sure you can as long as the car is at rest and there is no undue stress or torque on the engine you can unbolt them and take them off, I take mine off all the time when I work on my car to get extra room. Here is an reply from the old searchable archive... I would replace the dogbones myself, I think trying to find the correct bushing and then pressing it in would be a pill. Here is the reply from the archives...the answer from bill is really our NS guru Guru. I think the OEM service parts are new dogbones with the new mounts in them. You might be able to find some aftermarket bushings that could be used to replace just the bushings but given the trouble trying to press the bushings in correctly I would just get the new dogbone assemblies. I would agree with your idea that the dogbone itself probably will only break or crack if the rubber bushing is gone and the link is impacting against the stop directly. The links are probably perfectly OK otherwise. bill ***---REPLIED TO MESSAGE BELOW---*** For the upper engine mounts: Do we have to go and get the dog a whole new bone or why can't we just replace the rubber bushing in the ends? (If so, anyone know where to get the rubber bushings?) I'm not sure but is it because they are pressure fitted into place or these supports themselves might have developed a fracture as a result of the rubber no longer there to absorb the vibration or lift as someone mentioned in an earlier post about breakage. Hope this helps, John John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronson Posted June 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 Thanks a bunch! I thought so but wanted to run it buy you guys as well. Can anyone explain about the third motor mount? Is it located at the bottom of the engine? How difficult is it to replace or do you sugest that I have it done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBuckley Posted June 10, 2004 Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 I am not sure about those mounts, But unless you have engine movement when you powerbrake it, I don't know if I would change. Open the hood and gently power brake the engine against the torque converter in DRIVE and REVERSE. Watch the engine move around under load and pay particular attention to the "dog bone" mounts from the radiator support to the top of the engine. When you do the power braking do it in drive, let off the throttle to idle, shift into reverse and power brake in reverse, return to idle and power brake in drive agian. By loading the mounts one way and then the other you can uncover any mount problems. Visually examine the lower mounts while a helper crowds the throttle. You are looking for separation of the mount - either at the bond to the steel or the rubber itself. John John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronson Posted June 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2004 Well, I' ve change both mounts now and it seems to have solved the thump when you first start accelerating. Picked up the parts on the way home from work for under $50.00. Sure beats the Dealership and all the hassles. Thank You! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CadiKing Posted June 11, 2004 Report Share Posted June 11, 2004 Well, I' ve change both mounts now ... Bronson, What two mounts did you end up changing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronson Posted June 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2004 The two "dogbones" located on top, right up front, left and right side. The bushings in both that were closest to the engine were gone. When I unbolted them the rubber just crumbled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronson Posted June 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2004 When I purchased the two "dogbones" the sales person explained to me that the third was a solid mount and conected to the transmission. It this true? I plan on having it checked next time I have the oil changed to be sure that it's O.K. as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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