Caddy Problem with starting Pls Help

[SmileyDawg]

Hey How are you all? As you can read from my topic headline I having problems with my 03 cts I will copy and paste everything I wrote from a next cadddy forum because it is quite alot but it will explain everything thats happening but they wasnt able to help me so I am praying to God someone is experience enough here to be able to help me an thanks in advance.

I was getting these codes when the problem occurred

P0341 Camshaft position sensor performance

U1300 Class 2 data link shorted

B1327 Vehicle system voltage below 9.0 volts (but also tried to jump but still didnt start)

B1004 Keep alive memory (KAM)

B2882 tilt posistion sensor low (probabaly because I had car in the air installing crankshaft)

B2556 : Interior Lamp Rheostat Circuit Range

P0161 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2

P0056 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2

B2470 Daytime Running Lamps Fault

Ok I finish replacing the crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, o2 sensor, oil pressure switch sensor, and I am still getting problems starting. When I try to start it would jus crank for a long time an I kept tryin for like 20 mins an it finally start to turn over but it would jus turn right back off after about 2 mins, also I was hearing a knocking sound or cylinder misfire but the engine shakes but it turns right back off like after 2 seconds when it actually do start. I dont know if the oil pump went bad or if the lines are clogged or the screen but it sounds like oil isnt gettin to the engine an i change the oil pressure switch so i am confused. But now I am getting these codes:

B1327 Low voltage

P0341 Camshaft Position sensor (replaced I think its because all those cranking times)

P1629 - Theft Deterrent System - Cranking Signal (First time i saw this one)

Originally Posted by ewill3rd

As far as the OP goes, is this an '03?

Was it running when you took it apart to reseal the valve covers?

If so you may have damaged some wiring or something while it was apart.

Did you do any other work like change the oil?

The oil pressure sensor and O2 sensors have nothing to do with whether or not the car starts.

If it was a theft deterrent problem the car would not crank.

I have seen wires get damaged by the left valve cover, if you didn't move the wires out of the way you might have smashed them possibly causing the cam sensor codes (although I am a little fuzzy on that engine since I don't work on it a whole lot).

It sounds as if the engine has possibly jumped time. If that is the case stop cranking it.

The easiest way to check is to do a compression test or remove the timing cover to verify proper engine timing.

The 3.2 is an interference engine and will bend the valves if you crank it and the timing is not set properly.

Well I will explain what happen again, the tensioner pulley did siezed an caused the belt to pop. But I was soon home (about like a quarter mile) so I finish drive until I made it home an cut off the car. I replace the pulley an belt an the car started up and everything. So that night when I started the car to go to the shop I heard a light tapping noise ( tap tap tap something like that) at the bottom of the engine closer to the oil pan. I let it fun awhile but nothing change so I attempt to drive it to a shop around the corner. After driving for a few mins when I accelerate the noise went faster an then I started to lose power an the car was accelerating slow. So I pulled on the side an turn the engine off, I wanted to try make it back home so I turned the engine back on an turned around an started driving towards home an then I heard like a whirling noise and the car jus shut off by it self. An I couldnt get it started from then and when I do get it start it had a knocking sound (like oil wasnt getting to it fast enough) and then the engine would automatically turn back off 2 seconds after it would start (dont know if thats the knock sensor or watever). Then the next morning when I look at my engine I notice the wire from the oil pressure switch was cut an hanging so I dont know if that caused it. An when I check the codes I had camshaft position sensor code, oxygen sensor, thermostat code. An I always had a small leak from the valve covers an yes oil was in the car at the time all of this happen. So i change valve cover seals, camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, oxygen sensor, oil pressure switch, oil filter an oil. To see if it would make a difference but no it still sounds like oil isnt making it to the top of the engine fast enough. So I was wondering if the strainer could be blocked or maybe a hose, or the oil pump went bad an do the oil pump on the cts go bad on the regular. Would I have to lift the engine to get the oil pan off. So if anyone has any ideas it would be greatly appreciated, an thanks in advance.

P.S. An no it wasnt starting before I changed the valve cover seals so that didnt cause the problem.

I changed the oil after the problem started and the mechanic what I had checking it yesterday said it is just rolling over an attempted to start but it isnt starting, and that I would have to carry it to a next mechanic becuase he doesnt know to much about these engines. An I already changed the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor my self, unless they arent working. Unless when the v belt pop it disconnected or tear another wire of sensor some where, is there anymore anywhere around there or something could have shorted out because its amazing all this happen at that sametime an no oil light or anything. Would the car start even if doesnt have oil pressure? An i thought the oil pressure switch would send a signal to cut off fuel if pressure isnt high enough so that could be why, but u stated that wouldnt be a problem. Or could my car be in limp mode an need to reset? All the systems same close to oil tho so I dont know if the oil pump could of gave way, because at the time i lose power an heard a whirling noise then engine cut off, when tryin to start it would roll over an attempt to start an if it start it would have a knock like oil hasnt reach the top of the engine yet an it would automatically turn back off in 2 seconds ( dont kno if that could be from the knock sensor) an now I change the oil an oil filter it is rolling over an attempting to start but it isnt, I would have to keep gasing it up or keep my foot on gas an keep rolling it over to get it started an when it does it shuts back down. An the engine shouldnt be siezed because it is rolling over and I kno it isnt the head. Oh yea an before all this happen I heard a slight tapping noise at the bottom of the engine dont know if that was the oil pump. So if any one have an of these issues or is experince in these please help because I really dont want to have to get a new engine, an the cadillac dealer over hear says they wont be able to jus look at it for 3 months because of renovations, an it would be sad to pay them hundreds of dollars just to look at the car an dont kno what is the problem because I am still paying the bank for this car. But thanks in advance and I still praying to God that I could get this fix.

I hope this is enough information for you. Thanks in advance if you can help.

[SmileyDawg]

Ok these are some videos i recorded to make it easier an I will try do a better one so youll can understand better if I can get the car started

[Napoleonesco]

Wow, Thats alot that ccould be wrong

[SmileyDawg]

well thanks for the reply.

[sphynx1969]

You said you lost engine power last time you drove your car. I think you have the same problem i had. The loss of power on my car was caused by an offset camshaft gear causing a loss of compression to the engine. You can try to save your engine but if you say tou ear a TAC TAC TAC .... sound, that would suggest that the valves are hitting the pistons and that the engine is desynchronized and badly damaged. Do you remember the outside temperature the day your engine broke? I ask you cause my engine broke when there was a sudden drop in outside temperature. And i think i know what the problem is cause i talked about it with a master mechanic at my job. I live in Canada and here in March, you can have 15 degrees celcius one day and it can drop to -10 degrees the day after. That is what killed my enging cause the timing belt tensioner is ajusted with an excentric nut that i think is probably made of an aluminum alloy. When heated and frozen, aluminum expands and contracts more than other metal alloys so the nut expands in its hole when heated by engine heat and it enlarges the hole with time. When it contracts back under cold temperature it becomes loose in its hole after a few years. Then the timing belt gets loose and the engine gets desynchronized and lost. To see if my engine was desynchronized, i rented the tool kit used to replace the timing belt; removed the plastic cover on the front of the engine and installed the tool kit on the camshaft gears to see if they were correctly alligned. I noticed that camshaft number 1 was offset by one notch and the crankshaft was offset too. That meant the engine was lost and i had to replace it.