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Eldo ride-O


Julio

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Out my Garage

Finished serting, have to put them dang locator pins in. paid 6 bucs ea.

It took me 12 hours over 4 days had 4 left today. Brake cleaner works well.

Tip from time serting.

Use wd-40 on the drill bit, it hjas to be a 1/2 in. chuck.

10 mm was used to drive the tap and insert.

I had 1 rub the bushing on the way out. Threads was wasted when serting clean threads first prior to selecting the the first drilling position. Because it is important to determine pattern for maxiumn good threads. Had to dance the fixture around realizing that torquing the retaining bolts may be a 1 or two shot success.

So it was fun, man this thing is gonna run if it runs like it did when it was a dexcoolholic then tires will bawld....

Julio

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No but a strategy is in process.

I plan to drive dry wall screws into a piec of wood cut the tops off then cover it with vaccuum hose. I will make two of them and place those anchors so valve will not touch when setting the cams.

I am starting with the even side. I did not rebuild the oil pump and placed it today.

I will assmeble the gear dry. I will install the tensioners dry and cocked.

With the head on the fab stand and the gears installed I will set the cams with a carpenters 90. and use wire tie to maintain the setting.

Place the gasket set the head and tighten to 20 lbs.

Retreive chain from slick 50 bath and drop over gears.

Install stationary guide from bath

take up slack from stationary side over top then release pin on tensioner.

but first I got to put those pins in do you wackem with a hammer?

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Thanks Guru I'll see what I can do to adjust the strat:

All parts are clean and dry, before I crank I hope you advise me to put something on the cam and timing gears.

Thanks for the order advice, I still think the even side has enough room for the chain to fall over the gears but I'll plop the gear and chains on at once, dry, setting the cams as you suggest, This is an interference engine and don't want to bend a valve shaft.

I have all the other covered. I don't want to take chances on relying on the cam lobes not flopping so installing the gears first and wire tying them seemed to be the saftest way.

Thanks

Julio

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How about this

Loop the chain over the gears and torque the gears. Then drop the chain in and set the heads.

If I torque the gear with the chain on it might flip I have no help to hold the cam.

Julio

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OK I'll torque the sprockets on after the heads are tight thanks man, aint read all of it but I'm convinced. Thanks.

Thank seemed very unusual to me for thank many turns to line up the crank and idler gear. I have a rear seal to press in so locking the crank is also an issue not yet completely contemplated. I got wood and c-clamps now shouldn't be a prob!

Hey BB thanks for the help.

Julio

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thanks Guru, yo're absolutly right on this assembly it's funny cause I took this apart.

You have to torque the heads before you put the chains on and it seems you have to install the chain guides before the gear and chain. Those small bolts in the front of the head are not accessible with the chain guides on either.

Many thanks I'm starting the torqueing process. I have a document that was posted that was supposed to be a revised torque procedure to what was in helms.

Do you know of that or just use the process in the book?

Julio

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