Suitable Sealant

[Number97]

How are the SIR messages blocking the coolant temp? Hit reset/information and see if the SIR message goes away.

I tried pressing reset information and it did not clear the SIR message. I am considering that there may be an electrical problem. I want to disable the system message completely, (at least temporarily). Pulling the fuse doesn't clear it either.

The side tanks can leak under pressure you dont see the coolant leak it comes out under pressure and immediately vaporizes, you will see white deposits on the side tanks.

I removed the radiator this weekend and had it serviced. There were no deposits around the seams of the plastic tanks.

The radiator will be COOL if you have AIR in your system and the water pump is cavitating also because you are not circulating coolant

I can understand that; I filled the system before starting and warming the engine; I'm sure there was sufficient coolant.

TED is correct that if you have new coolant a combustion gas test may not be accurate at this point, let it overheat and then test it.

I prefer not to continue to let it overheat if I can help it; clearing that message so I can tell if sensors and relays are working properly would really help me to tell what's going on.

IF you have an active leak from the crossover seals because you damaged them doing the water pump and the system is not holding pressure you need to fix the seals. Get a cooling system pressure gage and test to see if the system will hold 16 PSI, and let it leak down and see what it holds or doesnt hold

This is really the wierd part; the system has been pressure tested and tested okay at 25 psi, but it was tested while the engine was warm. The problem occurs as the engine cools. I guess the parts contract and it leaks, but not a lot, just a small puddle about the size of the bottom of a soda can, then it stops

Also check the cap, made sure it holds the rated pressure and that it is the correct one.

Cap is new, rated at 16 psi.

Also are the cooling fans working. Start with the purge line, remove the bolt with a hole in it and inspect it for a clog

I answered each of the suggestions you gave in the above block, as for the fans: The fans come on when I turn on the A/C, but without a temperature gauge, I can't tell if they are coming on at the right time while the A/C is off, but they do come on. SIR message is still making me blind. The purge line is still something I am not sure of; I will check in to that. Thanks for all the great input, it is appreciated!

[Number97]

I merged your overheating threads together, keep related threads together so we can see ALL history.

As far as your attitude with 14 posts LOSE it. You came here for help, we did not go to you. WE including RANGER have been doing this a LONG LONG time, we DO NOT automatically assume that head gaskets are the problem. Quite the contrary we eliminate all issues before going there.

You have not checked for a purge line issue yet. Its possible your system has air in it that is causing your water pump to cavitate causing overheating. Especially since the overheating occurred after you changed the stat, and the refilling of the cooling system. However it is also possible that SUPERHEATED gases and boiling ruined the stat!!

It is possible that your radiator is clogged given the age of your car but I doubt it, apparently this started AFTER you replaced the thermostat? Checking the coolant for by products is a quick and easy way to eliminate the head gaskets, then you can focus on other issues. The 93 through 99 NSs DO have problems with head gaskets if the coolant is NOT maintained propertly. Make sure the coolant concentration is 50/50 and that the system holds pressure. You already said your system leaks coolant, has that been fixed or is it still leaking coolant? You were looking to seal it which was the title of this thread, didnt you narrow it down to the crossover seals? As you know a system that does not hold pressure will boil at a lower temp. Fix all the problems first, check the purge line, check the coolant concentrations and pressure test the system then do the NAPA combustion gas test. But pulling the radiator is unnecessary before you check to see if you have air in the system and that its purging.

Also make sure the water pump belt is not slipping and the water pump tensioner is not binding and that it is putting adequate pressure on the belt and its not slipping. I assume that its good as you just changed the water pump. What caused the problems with the water pump?, I know that some have problems getting theirs out, mine fall right out with a breaker bar I have never understood the difficulty.

You are looking for evidence of head gaskets at the exhaust and on the plugs WRONG! Compression is 120 PSI!, what is the cooling system pressure 15 PSI? What do you think will breach first? Exhaust gases are forced into the cooling system superheating the coolant causing spontaneous boiling.

I will be the first to admit that your overheating problem is unusual, to overheat at IDLE. CHECK THE PURGE LINE FIRST.

Please LOSE the attitude and criticism of our members, they have LOTS of experience with this. TAKE ALL ADVICE and DO ALL DIAGNOSTICS without being argumentative or move on.

It might be best to summarize exactly what you have done at this point and what problems you currently have (leaking, overheating etc)

My sense of humor seems to have escaped you; sorry about that, I'll shoot straight. I understand that these cars sometimes have head gasket problems, but it seems like every other post about an overheating problem points the finger at the head gaskets. It just seems funny to me, so I answered humorously; I didn't realize you were so sensative around here. I appreciate all the input and I have gotten some very good information and that includes the information I've gotten from Ranger. Whoever he/she is, the replies to my posts are appreciated and I consider all possibilities, but in my case, the head gasket theory doesn't seem very likely. By the way: Do you really think it is impossible for coolant to be drawn into the cylinders on the INTAKE stroke and thereby leave deposits on the plugs and an odor in the exhaust?