Julio Posted May 11, 2004 Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 I have the engine out of the car and the heads removed, I was chasing the threads with the head bolts. I noticed oil dripping from the block between the #3 and 5 cylinder. It appears at the bottom of the thread oil is leaking from the side of the block. Is the block ruined? Has anyone seen this before. It looks as though the crack was there for some time but no oil stains there from it leaking while it was running. I am really puzzled I thought that maybe I drove the bolt into the thread too far but then lining it up with the head it doesn't appear that way. Any feedback would help. Julio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julio Posted May 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 here's a pic of it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
growe3 Posted May 11, 2004 Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 It is difficult to really see what you mean, the picture is to close to visualize. Can you post another picture a little further away from the engine? -George Drive'em like you own 'em. - ....................04 DTS............................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julio Posted May 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 here's another one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
growe3 Posted May 11, 2004 Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 Now can you get a shot from 2 feet away? Drive'em like you own 'em. - ....................04 DTS............................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julio Posted May 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 I think this one will work it appears to only be where it is wet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted May 11, 2004 Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 Just a thought: http://newtechnologyproducts.net/?OVRAW=we...&OVMTC=standard Otherwise, I think JB Weld is supposed to be able to fix cracked blocks? MAC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
growe3 Posted May 11, 2004 Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 It is a little hard to tell , but it looks like a poor casting job. If it doesn't pose a structural problem the leak can likely be sealed with a number of patch materials. My favored cleaner is spray brake cleaner, because it leaves a very clean dry surface and penetrates fine cracks very well. You could then coat the area with JB Weld or a similar material that with stands high heat and is resistant to oil. As to whether it is a structural problem, I will defer to other experts to offer opinions. I believe that "Bbobinski" will have a much better feeling as to the cracks real hazards. Perhaps you can PM him this thread and see if he will respond. -George Drive'em like you own 'em. - ....................04 DTS............................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julio Posted May 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 Yeah, what a mess this has turned out to be I spent 3 years saving for this car and what a mistake absolutley the largest disappointment in my life. You would think with a name like cadillac all boasting about engineering they could of figured how to anchor a bolt into an engine block. This is like fundumental stuff like walking or breathing if you're in the business of making cars. So why should rings and bearings cost so much if the heads won't stay put? Well enough of that I feel much better now, I think structurally I will find out when I time sert the bolt hole. if the crack has intruded into the oil galley next to it I guess I'll be loosing oil. If JB Weld will keep the oil in it I'll try that. $65 for one lb of weling rods seems a bit high, if the machine shop that is doing the dipping and head check for me can weld aluminum hey why not. I have to stay under $500. Thanks for the advice. Julio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julio Posted May 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 Bob, Thanks for the advice oil got in the hole when I was cleaning out the cylinders its good to know I can get on with it. Do you know why rings and bearings are so much? What makes these diffeent from any other ring or bearing. I am going to try and reseal the 1/2 case. I have this white crystal like stuff inbetween the cylinders and block. I'ld really like to completely dismantle the whole thing and have the block tanked. I have rebuilt about 6 engines 3 BB 2 sb and one v6 all case iron chevy blocks. I only used the same pistons once and never used the same rings cam, rod or main main bearings. The one time I reused the same pistons I ended up with the rings in little pieces in the oil pan. I was getting water in 2, 4 and 6 cylinders. Oil was leaking the engine valley from the odd side of the block. The thing went into save mode 3 times on me. Do you think I should: A. Completely dismantle the entire engine dip the block and reuse all the same bearings rings oil pump and pistons B. reseal the 1/2 case and replace the rear seal only C. Just time sert the block clean the heads and engine deck and put it back together See the picture of the even side head Julio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julio Posted May 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2004 Well got the LLC off, it came apart nice and the bolts came out with out any of the block threads attached. It was leaking in about 3 spots and I could of left it alone but for the price of the seals its worth it. The mains in the LLC are good one looks like it got scratched a bit. Cleaning this thing up you said no scotch-bright. I planned to use parts cleaner on the parts like the oil pan, windage trey, oil pick up,ect is there any problem with using saftey clean. The other question is with the sealant. You say to use anearobic sealant. Where do you get that and is that a brand name? Well now that it's all apart next steps is to clean the lower case and get that back together as quick as possible. Hey man thanks for all the advice I'm sure I'll be needing more help as I make more progress. I am a little unsure how to put the timing chains back on the book expalination just isn't clicking with me. The book also gives torque spec for the main bearing 15lbs then 65 degrees. Is that all the tighter it needs to be? The main bolts didn't have any lock-tight on it should I use some when I reassemble if so what would be the best to use? Thanks again, Julio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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