franey Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 If your not bothered with the ABS, issue regarding wheither it is working or not , I found out years ago that if you remove the bulb behind the ABS , it works miracles for the light not coming on again. Just a thought from the old school. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msb113 Posted July 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 If your not bothered with the ABS, issue regarding wheither it is working or not , I found out years ago that if you remove the bulb behind the ABS , it works miracles for the light not coming on again. Just a thought from the old school. Thank you for that... Did that the same day I pulled the ground on the modulator... Kinda dark now in the car... lol Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msb113 Posted July 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 Okay now I am confused... after pulling the ground of the little black box attached to the ABS modulator I thought I had disabled the ABS brakes. Have driven the car numerous times and the ABS light came on right away and all was fine, so I removed the bulb. Today the ABS brakes kicked in as perscribed in my very first post about low speed and the pedal vibration and ABS noise, so I throw the bulb back in and what do you know the light is not on and my little problem is back... how is that possible? I am about to do struts on the front and the rear shocks and I think after I do that It is time to pull the fuse for the ABS/CCR. I just dont get how they kicked in when the ground is not connected? Confused, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 Okay now I am confused... after pulling the ground of the little black box attached to the ABS modulator I thought I had disabled the ABS brakes. Have driven the car numerous times and the ABS light came on right away and all was fine, so I removed the bulb. Today the ABS brakes kicked in as perscribed in my very first post about low speed and the pedal vibration and ABS noise, so I throw the bulb back in and what do you know the light is not on and my little problem is back... how is that possible? I am about to do struts on the front and the rear shocks and I think after I do that It is time to pull the fuse for the ABS/CCR. I just dont get how they kicked in when the ground is not connected? Confused, Mark Probably the block is grounded via connector as well. There is a simple ABS diafnostics outlined in FSM (the light blinks indicating a code if one is stored). do you want to run it? If so I can post it here. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msb113 Posted July 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 Okay now I am confused... after pulling the ground of the little black box attached to the ABS modulator I thought I had disabled the ABS brakes. Have driven the car numerous times and the ABS light came on right away and all was fine, so I removed the bulb. Today the ABS brakes kicked in as perscribed in my very first post about low speed and the pedal vibration and ABS noise, so I throw the bulb back in and what do you know the light is not on and my little problem is back... how is that possible? I am about to do struts on the front and the rear shocks and I think after I do that It is time to pull the fuse for the ABS/CCR. I just dont get how they kicked in when the ground is not connected? Confused, Mark Probably the block is grounded via connector as well. There is a simple ABS diafnostics outlined in FSM (the light blinks indicating a code if one is stored). do you want to run it? If so I can post it here. That would be greatt And if that does not get me anywhere In this little adventure the next thing is the fuse pull Thanks again for all your patience and my ignorance, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 1. Ignition OFF 2. Find ALDL connector by the hood release thingy. 3. Jumper upper row sixth pin with lower row second pin (use a paper clip). 4. Turn ignition ON (engine OFF) count blinks of the ABS light. All codes are two digit (if there are stored ones). - -- - -- - -- is 12 code (means nothing, just a sample code) -- ---- -- ---- -- ---- is 24 code etc. When done remove jumper. You will see as soon you try. Post here the results please. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msb113 Posted July 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 1. Ignition OFF 2. Find ALDL connector by the hood release thingy. 3. Jumper upper row sixth pin with lower row second pin (use a paper clip). 4. Turn ignition ON (engine OFF) count blinks of the ABS light. All codes are two digit (if there are stored ones). - -- - -- - -- is 12 code (means nothing, just a sample code) -- ---- -- ---- -- ---- is 24 code etc. When done remove jumper. You will see as soon you try. Post here the results please. Thank you... I have a few questions before proceeding with this... which i will most likely try tomorrow as I have family in for holiday today. Pin count from left to right? Do I do this with the ground to the modulator off or on? Thanks again... I wish my wife was this patient... lol Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 1. Ignition OFF 2. Find ALDL connector by the hood release thingy. 3. Jumper upper row sixth pin with lower row second pin (use a paper clip). 4. Turn ignition ON (engine OFF) count blinks of the ABS light. All codes are two digit (if there are stored ones). - -- - -- - -- is 12 code (means nothing, just a sample code) -- ---- -- ---- -- ---- is 24 code etc. When done remove jumper. You will see as soon you try. Post here the results please. Thank you... I have a few questions before proceeding with this... which i will most likely try tomorrow as I have family in for holiday today. Pin count from left to right? Do I do this with the ground to the modulator off or on? Thanks again... I wish my wife was this patient... lol Mark Yes, the count is from left to right. The ALDL connector is gray and has a cover. It is close to parking brake pedal and hood release handle. Put the ground back. Besides, find and reconnect the EBCM (electronic brake control module) 35 pin connector. It is in the trunk under the carpet trim on the left (driver ) side. Looks lik ewe both have some poor electrical connection. Check (reconnect) speed sensor connectors on front wheels. The rear ones are integrated with hub bearing assembly. EDIT: BTW, you have way too many BCM codes... It is a sure indication of a bad BCM (body control module) connection or BCM moving to south... You might want to reconnect the BCM, which is under the glove box next to ECM (engine control module). Happy holidays! The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msb113 Posted July 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 1. Ignition OFF 2. Find ALDL connector by the hood release thingy. 3. Jumper upper row sixth pin with lower row second pin (use a paper clip). 4. Turn ignition ON (engine OFF) count blinks of the ABS light. All codes are two digit (if there are stored ones). - -- - -- - -- is 12 code (means nothing, just a sample code) -- ---- -- ---- -- ---- is 24 code etc. When done remove jumper. You will see as soon you try. Post here the results please. Thank you... I have a few questions before proceeding with this... which i will most likely try tomorrow as I have family in for holiday today. Pin count from left to right? Do I do this with the ground to the modulator off or on? Thanks again... I wish my wife was this patient... lol Mark Yes, the count is from left to right. The ALDL connector is gray and has a cover. It is close to parking brake pedal and hood release handle. Put the ground back. Besides, find and reconnect the EBCM (electronic brake control module) 35 pin connector. It is in the trunk under the carpet trim on the left (driver ) side. Looks lik ewe both have some poor electrical connection. Check (reconnect) speed sensor connectors on front wheels. The rear ones are integrated with hub bearing assembly. EDIT: BTW, you have way too many BCM codes... It is a sure indication of a bad BCM (body control module) connection or BCM moving to south... You might want to reconnect the BCM, which is under the glove box next to ECM (engine control module). Happy holidays! Hey Adallak, I have not had a chance to do all of that yet but I did do the diagnostic again and had no ECM, no BCM and no SIR codes is that good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted July 4, 2006 Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 1. Ignition OFF 2. Find ALDL connector by the hood release thingy. 3. Jumper upper row sixth pin with lower row second pin (use a paper clip). 4. Turn ignition ON (engine OFF) count blinks of the ABS light. All codes are two digit (if there are stored ones). - -- - -- - -- is 12 code (means nothing, just a sample code) -- ---- -- ---- -- ---- is 24 code etc. When done remove jumper. You will see as soon you try. Post here the results please. Thank you... I have a few questions before proceeding with this... which i will most likely try tomorrow as I have family in for holiday today. Pin count from left to right? Do I do this with the ground to the modulator off or on? Thanks again... I wish my wife was this patient... lol Mark Yes, the count is from left to right. The ALDL connector is gray and has a cover. It is close to parking brake pedal and hood release handle. Put the ground back. Besides, find and reconnect the EBCM (electronic brake control module) 35 pin connector. It is in the trunk under the carpet trim on the left (driver ) side. Looks lik ewe both have some poor electrical connection. Check (reconnect) speed sensor connectors on front wheels. The rear ones are integrated with hub bearing assembly. EDIT: BTW, you have way too many BCM codes... It is a sure indication of a bad BCM (body control module) connection or BCM moving to south... You might want to reconnect the BCM, which is under the glove box next to ECM (engine control module). Happy holidays! Hey Adallak, I have not had a chance to do all of that yet but I did do the diagnostic again and had no ECM, no BCM and no SIR codes is that good? That is sure good. ABS codes are not supposed to be shown on the DIC (driver info center). The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msb113 Posted August 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2006 Just an Update on the ABS... Finally found the fault... Right wheel bearing... TaDa Changed it out and all is good... well, my hands may never be clean again but worth it Thanks for all the Help Guys Will be posting a new thread right after this post...lol Thanks again, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted August 13, 2006 Report Share Posted August 13, 2006 Just an Update on the ABS... Finally found the fault... Right wheel bearing... TaDa Changed it out and all is good... well, my hands may never be clean again but worth it Thanks for all the Help Guys Will be posting a new thread right after this post...lol Thanks again, Mark Good job. Was it a front wheel? The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msb113 Posted August 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2006 Just an Update on the ABS... Finally found the fault... Right wheel bearing... TaDa Changed it out and all is good... well, my hands may never be clean again but worth it Thanks for all the Help Guys Will be posting a new thread right after this post...lol Thanks again, Mark Good job. Was it a front wheel? Yes... Now how did you know that... Can you guess what color my hands are? lol Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted August 13, 2006 Report Share Posted August 13, 2006 Just an Update on the ABS... Finally found the fault... Right wheel bearing... TaDa Changed it out and all is good... well, my hands may never be clean again but worth it Thanks for all the Help Guys Will be posting a new thread right after this post...lol Thanks again, Mark Good job. Was it a front wheel? Yes... Now how did you know that... Can you guess what color my hands are? lol Mark LOL I guess the hub bearing was so bad that the tooth wheel made contact with the magnetis speed sensor. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msb113 Posted August 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2006 Just an Update on the ABS... Finally found the fault... Right wheel bearing... TaDa Changed it out and all is good... well, my hands may never be clean again but worth it Thanks for all the Help Guys Will be posting a new thread right after this post...lol Thanks again, Mark Good job. Was it a front wheel? Yes... Now how did you know that... Can you guess what color my hands are? lol Mark LOL I guess the hub bearing was so bad that the tooth wheel made contact with the magnetis speed sensor. I most likely would not have found the issue if I did not do the struts... Sometimes you have to fix something else to really find out how good of shape your other equipment down the line is, And let me tell ya... you can't do an allignment when one wheel points forward and the other points right...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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