Logan Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 You really need a OEM axle. A good used one is better then a 'rebuilt' one. Even the RockAuto ones are no good. I'll explain.... My original problem was a leaking boot. Ok, replace axle. The problem was, it would not come out of the trans. After several different attempts......axle was out.....no wonder it did not want to come out.... Smeared metal.....see pic. So....smeared....into the trans we go...the worn surface is not the case extension. But rather the internal differential.....great. Pic shows trans open to sun gear...diff out. Pic #3 shows used differential. This gets bolted to the sun gear. You can see the axle snub. The wear surface is on the inside of the diff assembly. You can also see the new case extension housing. Ok....here is where it get messy. During this repair. 2 different 'rebuilt' $50 axles where used. But both sucked. Both had soft rubber boots. One came with a torn boot simply from shipping. The one from RockAuto was even more interesting. First it is a rebuilt unit. ****CV axle rebuilding is a bit of art. Very select parts have to be used or the axle will be out of balance!!!**** In addition, the RockAuto shaft was not correct. It fit...but was a much heavier axle. So much so I weighed the RA one vs. the OEM one. The lone RA trans part alone weighed 8 lbs on the electronic scale. The OEM one would not even register on the scale. The OEM one is maybe 2 1/2 lbs. Note the axle sizes and shapes in pic #4. You will feel 8 lbs RA one. Note: This is only one lone part of the axle. Both rebuilt axles 'felt' out of balance. The ultimate fix was a good 32K OEM axle found on eBay for $40 shipped. The eBay one was a little rusty. But a quick wire brush job, very fast light coat of spray paint. Got OEM part, OEM balance, and OEM GM boots. All is well.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...IBSAA%3AUS%3A11 Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.logandieselusa.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 I recall this happening. Didnt you get a front end vibration from this? I didnt know you went through some much to fix this. Do you still have the link to this thread? Did you have to drop the carriage. WOW Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted July 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 Wow Logan, sorry to hear you had so much trouble. Thanks for sharing all that info. I looked on eBay and the best I could find mileage wise for a used axle was 60k miles: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Driver-Axle...1QQcmdZViewItem I'm wondering if going with a used axle will be a good idea considering the age of the axle/boot will be 12 years old. Seems like a lot of work to install those. I hear what you're saying about the reman ones. I wonder how they stay in business if they're so bad though? Maybe you got a lemon? Wouldn't the reman ones have been OEM originally, with possibly new joints and/or boots? I looked up the price for a nw OEM inner CV joint from partszoneonline (Caddy dealer) and it was $442 and the boot was $20, and a whole new axle was $520. Maybe I'll luck into finding a used OEM with lower miles. I did see a couple new OEM axles for around $50 on eBay, but not my year. The grease coming out of my torn boot looks light in color (creamy color) - looks like water has gotten in there, so I would question whether replacing the boot only would be a wise thing to do at this point. Hmmm.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 The root of my story was.....I recently tried 2 'rebuilt' axles. Both were junk. The solution for me was a good, low mileage axle. OEM balance and stiff GM boots. I think...as most rebuilders do.....if the car needs an axle...it also needs other things. Chances are the owner will be dumping the car soon anyway. Both 'rebuilt' axles had the soft junky rubber replacement boots. Here is a link about reman axles. Regrinding, oversize bearings etc. It is a art to get the axle perfect. Hmmm...I'll just find a good OEM one for me....thanks. http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvgrind.htm Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.logandieselusa.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 The root of my story was.....I recently tried 2 'rebuilt' axles. Both were junk. The solution for me was a good, low mileage axle. OEM balance and stiff GM boots. I think...as most rebuilders do.....if the car needs an axle...it also needs other things. Chances are the owner will be dumping the car soon anyway. Both 'rebuilt' axles had the soft junky rubber replacement boots. Here is a link about reman axles. Regrinding, oversize bearings etc. It is a art to get the axle perfect. Hmmm...I'll just find a good OEM one for me....thanks. http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvgrind.htm I agree...Soft, aftermarket boots = junk and you will be doing the job again far sooner than you planned. I went through four rebuilt axles on my old Park Avenue - all had soft boots that were torn within 15,000 miles... The statement in the link, "We need to develop our own aftermarket standards, not OEM standards", says it all... Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted July 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2006 Maybe I can find someone to replace my boot with an OEM boot, or luck into a good low miles used one. I found the AC Delco supply house here locally that supplies all the dealers here with their AC Delco parts, that has reman axles for $59. They stated all the Caddy/GM dealers here locally buy from them and they've had no problems with them at all. To believe them or not is the question? I believe they were reman by RAI or RIA, or something like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 22, 2006 Report Share Posted July 22, 2006 Maybe I can find someone to replace my boot with an OEM boot, or luck into a good low miles used one. I found the AC Delco supply house here locally that supplies all the dealers here with their AC Delco parts, that has reman axles for $59. They stated all the Caddy/GM dealers here locally buy from them and they've had no problems with them at all. To believe them or not is the question? I believe they were reman by RAI or RIA, or something like that. I would suggest replacing the boot now hearing what Logan said. If you do that, I would mark the relative location of ALL parts as I took it apart. You will need a couple of special tools I would imagine. Its messy but so what. You would need to clean out the inner joint and re-supply it with grease. Have you checked to see if you can buy an OEM boot? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted July 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2006 Maybe I can find someone to replace my boot with an OEM boot, or luck into a good low miles used one. I found the AC Delco supply house here locally that supplies all the dealers here with their AC Delco parts, that has reman axles for $59. They stated all the Caddy/GM dealers here locally buy from them and they've had no problems with them at all. To believe them or not is the question? I believe they were reman by RAI or RIA, or something like that. I would suggest replacing the boot now hearing what Logan said. If you do that, I would mark the relative location of ALL parts as I took it apart. You will need a couple of special tools I would imagine. Its messy but so what. You would need to clean out the inner joint and re-supply it with grease. Have you checked to see if you can buy an OEM boot? Yes, the OEM boots are $20. I don't have time now though, leaving for Florida in 13 hours. If I don't have any noise when I get back, then I may just replace the boot. If I have noise, then I'm not sure what I'm gonna do. The inside CV joint itself is very expensive ($442.00)! I started doing front brakes last night...rotors being turned (clean up cut) now. New slider pins and boots. I cleaned up the hub, inside/outside rotors and slider points with a wire brush on my drill. The insides of my wheels are still like new. Hoping to eliminate that shudder. 2 sliders were seized pretty good in the boots. Not sure why though as I replaced those boots last year and used silicone grease. I recall putting petroleum grease on there 1st though, before I realized that was the wrong grease and cleaned them off...maybe the petroleum messed them up that fast. I remember soaking them in dawn to get the petroleum grease off. So hopefully that was the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 22, 2006 Report Share Posted July 22, 2006 Hey Kim, have a safe and enjoyable trip. I saw all of the cooling system work you did.... good PM! Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted July 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2006 Yes, the OEM boots are $20. I don't have time now though, leaving for Florida in 13 hours. If I don't have any noise when I get back, then I may just replace the boot. If I have noise, then I'm not sure what I'm gonna do. The inside CV joint itself is very expensive ($442.00)! I started doing front brakes last night...rotors being turned (clean up cut) now. New slider pins and boots. I cleaned up the hub, inside/outside rotors and slider points with a wire brush on my drill. The insides of my wheels are still like new. Hoping to eliminate that shudder. 2 sliders were seized pretty good in the boots. Not sure why though as I replaced those boots last year and used silicone grease. I recall putting petroleum grease on there 1st though, before I realized that was the wrong grease and cleaned them off...maybe the petroleum messed them up that fast. I remember soaking them in dawn to get the petroleum grease off. So hopefully that was the problem. Hey Kim, have a safe and enjoyable trip. I saw all of the cooling system work you did.... good PM! Mike Thanks Mike! I have your number on my speed dial if I have any problems en route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 22, 2006 Report Share Posted July 22, 2006 Feel free to call, see your PM, I sent you my CELL number, Enjoy, Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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