epricedright Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 My left side boot is slinging grease. I also heard a clicking noise the other day with the wheel cocked. I found at rockauto a Cardone Select for $53 and a Reman A1 Cardone CV Half Shaft Assembly for $50. Is Cardone a good brand? What's the difference between the 2 above besides one being rebuilt? They're both supposedly the CV Half Shaft Assembly. I checked out my FSM, and it didn't look too bad, but I was looking at some previous posts and ppl described it as being a royal PITA. How hard is it to replace the half shaft? Looks like I need to: 1. Install a seal protector (J 34754) on outer joint. 2. Remove the hub nut 3. Remove ball joint cotter pin and nut and loosen joint using (J 29330) 4. Drive axle axle from hub using (J 28733) and move strut forward and knuckle rearward. 5. Drive axle from transaxle with a prybar. Is that all there is to it? Are any of those steps harder than they appear? Do I really need all those specialty tools? How long can I drive this with the grease coming out and clicking you think? Is this something that should be addressed asap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 Replacing an axle is not hard. The only critical thing is to make sure you dont over extend the inner joint on the new axle. If you have not driven long with the the leaking boot, you might get away with just cleaning the joint, packing it with grease and replacing the boot. The longer you drive the less likely it will be that you can keep the axle as it will run dry and dirt and grit will enter the boot. Part of the reason you are hearing clicking is due to the breached boot and lack of grease. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 Replacing the boot is actually more difficult than replacing the shaft as the axle still has to come out, only now you have to disassemble the joint. I used to have a mechanic (a good one) for a neighbor, and he once helped me (actually I helped him) replace one. Never again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 Agreed... its a messy job also.. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted June 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 Replacing the boot is actually more difficult than replacing the shaft as the axle still has to come out, only now you have to disassemble the joint. I used to have a mechanic (a good one) for a neighbor, and he once helped me (actually I helped him) replace one. Never again. So replacing the axle is not that bad of a job, but replacing the boot is? Ranger, would you attempt replacing the axle if yours went out, or would you send it off? Am I better off paying somebody to replace the axle? Bottom line is I don't mind doing the job myself, as long as it's not a PITA. And any clue what the difference is in the above 2 half shafts? Agreed... its a messy job also.. Mike, replacing the axle is not messy is it? And will I need those tools mentioned above? I could see (J 28733) coming in handy, but do I need (J 29330) & (J 34754)? I'm hoping I can rent those if I need them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 The factory boots are a molded thermoplastic type but many aftermarket axle half shafts have very soft boots that do not seem to last very long. That has been my xpierence on my old Park Avenue. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 Epriced, replacing the boot is messy, as you need to clean out the old grease and replace the grease and the boot. I would not do that if i were you, ranger brings up a good point, a rebuilt axle is so cheap its not worth just replacing the boot with the extra work involved. Plus you will need a special tool to crimp the boot clamp. Forget about all of the special tools the manual refers to. Let the lower control arm hang, put a screwdriver in the rotor vent as a stop, remove the axle bolt, break the lower ball joint, tap on the axle with a brass rod in the center dimple to break the spline loose from the hub bearing, lift the strut assembly and basically the axle is out, once you detach it from the transaxle. Its simple, just make sure that you don't overextend the new axle (inner tri-pod joint). Its not a hard job, getting the axle in and out of the hub bearing can be a biach, if you have a helper to hold up the strut assembly that would be a big help... Mike replacing the axle as an assembly is not messy.. You will need a new cotter pin for the ball joint when you reassemble it Breaking the ball joint without damaging the grease seal can be tricky, there is a ball joint breaker that I have used that helps No alignment will be necessary Lube the shaft that goes into the transaxle with white grease or tranny fluid, so you don't damage the seal. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted June 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 Thanks Mike! I think I will spring for that ball joint breaker tool...no exper. w/ ball joints. I will need to get a brass rod (punch?) as well. Do you know what size socket I need for the axle nut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 So replacing the axle is not that bad of a job, but replacing the boot is? Ranger, would you attempt replacing the axle if yours went out, or would you send it off? Am I better off paying somebody to replace the axle? Bottom line is I don't mind doing the job myself, as long as it's not a PITA. It has been a very long time since I have done that job, but I think I would probably attemp it myself. I have forgotten most of what I learned about that repair except that we stripped everything right back to the trans. Caliper, rotor, knuckle, everything. If I where to do it again, I'd surely have a FSM by my side. As BBF said, the boot part is extremely messy. Grease up to your elbows, literally. Plus as mentioned the tools and know how to seperate the joint and crimp the boot band. I never would have attempted it without my neighbor, and like I said, I'll never do a CV joint again. Sorry, I don't recall the hub nut size. Somewhere around 34 mm I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 The hub nut size on my 94 Eldorado is 33mm. I also bought a 34mm socket but it was slightly too big. The 33mm fit nice and snug with no movement. The 34mm had some play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 epriced, if you want I can send you my ball (joint) breaker, let me know, Mike Either that or use a fork, and replace the grease seals on the ball joints, Energy Suspension sells them, see this link http://www.energysuspension.com/ Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted June 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 Thanks Ranger, Mac, and Mike! I think I may have a breaker if this is what I need: http://www.shop.com/op/~Wilmar_Ball_Joint_...r-prod-17006864 I always thought it was a tuning fork. The drawing of the breaker in the FSM looks much different though. Do I break the ball joint away from the knuckle? Of course, I don't have a 33mm socket. What size/type of brass rod/punch do I need to get? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 I have the sockets. Any kind of rod will do that has about a 3/8 inch point on it. yes the ball joint, must be broken out of the knuckle, in the old days this was really easy, because there was spring pressure, you loosened the nut, banged on the knuckle at the stud, and POP, it broke loose from spring pressure. The FORK, i have never been a fan of, it f's up the seals... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted June 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2006 Mike, thanks for the offer of the tool rental. I may take you up on that if you don't mind. I'll let you know when I order the half shaft. I need to order a few other parts as well...both door locks on driver side are now not working. I need to take the panels off and see what's up. Thank again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 17, 2006 Report Share Posted June 17, 2006 Let me know when you want me to ship or I can ship now. I have the 33 and 34mm socket and ball joint breaker. Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted June 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2006 Thanks Mike! Could I also borrow your Clutch installer/remover tool again? Devin O'conor wants my clutch pulley and plate and I will need to take those off my old one when I replace my compressor. Hoping to do that job around the middle of July. So I may just do both jobs at the same time, but will most likely do the half shaft sooner. I will let you know when I'm ready. Thanks again Mike! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 17, 2006 Report Share Posted June 17, 2006 Sure, let me know Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted June 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2006 Sure, let me know Thanks Mike! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted July 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 I confirmed today my boot does have a slit in it. I was hoping that maybe it was oil I was seeing that I spilled while doing my last oil filter change. Well, it was up on a lift today and sure enough, there's a slit in my inner boot, driver side. The mechanic said he wouldn't worry about it though for my upcoming trip to Florida. He said I was lucky it was the inner boot, as it only has limited up/down movement, whereas the outer boot/joint has both up/down and fore/aft movement. The slit is at the small end of the boot and he said luckily the bulk of the grease is at the large end. It's not making any noise, and he said it will get really noisy before it becomes a problem. Do you guys agree and think it will be ok and make it to Fl and back? They want $149 for a reman half shaft and $88 labor - total $238. I found a half shaft at rockauto for $50 Is it worth paying an extra $188 and have them do it you think - given the work involved? They also give a 6 month warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northstar Posted July 19, 2006 Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 Dont forget about a Speedy Boot as an option. It is a replacement boot that is split so you can wrap it around the joint then you glue it or screw it together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted July 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 Dont forget about a Speedy Boot as an option. It is a replacement boot that is split so you can wrap it around the joint then you glue it or screw it together. Hmmm...I didn't know there was such a thing. Funny you mention that as today I jokingly asked them if they had any liquid rubber. The boot seems nice and plyable, but has the one small slit at a crease on the far small end. Have you used one of those speedy boots before? I just looked at them and you need to cut off the old one. If it doesn't work, I may be in worse shape, especially out of town, on the road...sounds risky! If it leaks, it may sling more grease than the old one. I'd maybe try it if I weren't going out of town. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted July 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 The slit is in the inner boot (the boot/joint closest to the tranny). The slit is at the smaller end (furthest from the tranny) in that boot. Which direction would the centrifugal force throw the grease to? I would think the grease would gravitate towards the small end....furthest away from the tranny, but maybe it would just sling outwards and not right or left? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 I would use an oem boot, those speedy boots are to save you the trouble of removing the axle. To tell you the truth, you can buy a rebuilt axle for about $100, that is what I would do. Depending upon how long the boot is ripped you will have water, dirt and grit in the joint that will accelerate the wearing of the tri-pot joint, its probably worn now more than it was when the boot was good. As soon as the boot rips, the grease is thrown out at high speed due to spinning forces. You won't find much grease in there that is doing any good anyway. Its going to be hard for you to know how long that slit is there. If you want to try to replace the boot, I would not take it on this long trip/vacation without fixing it and making sure that its got proper grease. If you are going to replace the axle, drive it like you dont care and just replace it when you come back... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted July 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 I would use an oem boot, those speedy boots are to save you the trouble of removing the axle. To tell you the truth, you can buy a rebuilt axle for about $100, that is what I would do. Depending upon how long the boot is ripped you will have water, dirt and grit in the joint that will accelerate the wearing of the tri-pot joint, its probably worn now more than it was when the boot was good. As soon as the boot rips, the grease is thrown out at high speed due to spinning forces. You won't find much grease in there that is doing any good anyway. Its going to be hard for you to know how long that slit is there. If you want to try to replace the boot, I would not take it on this long trip/vacation without fixing it and making sure that its got proper grease. If you are going to replace the axle, drive it like you dont care and just replace it when you come back... I'm definately not replacing just the boot. Especially after reading what a nightmare messy job it is. I plan to replace the whole half shaft when I get back, and keep my fingers crossed till then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 I'm definately not replacing just the boot. Especially after reading what a nightmare messy job it is. I plan to replace the whole half shaft when I get back, and keep my fingers crossed till then. You will be fine Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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