98deville Posted June 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2006 So do not do anything with the condenser? No need to flush it or replace it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 23, 2006 Report Share Posted June 23, 2006 Parallel flow condensers can't be flushed as you'll never be able to remove all the flushing agent. Given the small amount of shavings you found on the o-tube, you are probably OK with just flushing the lines (individually) and evaporator. Do not flush through the accumulator. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted June 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2006 Alright thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted June 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2006 Got my parts in today from RockAuto... On the accumulator (Four Seasons) it has 3 valves on it and the original one on my cadillac I only see two. What's that third one for? Is it to put in the oil? and how many o-rings will I need ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 24, 2006 Report Share Posted June 24, 2006 Not sure what you mean by valves, mine has none, it has an inlet and and outlet... no valves that I can recall.. It also has a low pressure tap on it Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 24, 2006 Report Share Posted June 24, 2006 Can you post a picture? The accumulator should just have an inlet and an outlet. It is possible they shipped the wrong one. You will need four o-rings as the connections are dual o-ring types. The dealer has them... they are $2.00 each. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted June 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2006 Here's the part I ordered http://www.rockauto.com/ref/SPI/FourSeason...asons/33156.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 24, 2006 Report Share Posted June 24, 2006 That's appears to be the right one, those are inlet, outlet and low pressure tap, those are not valves... Mike You can order a COMPLETE set of o-rings from www.acsource.com see this: SKU: Seals/ Gaskets/ Orings for 1998 Cadillac Deville (4.6 V8 Gas FI) Rapid Seal Kit All Seals For AC SKU: 11877-P/N: MT2543 http://www.acsource.net/xcart/home.php Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted June 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2006 So it's the right one..Is that low pressure tap to check the presssure with the gauges? Does it have to be covered when I put it on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 24, 2006 Report Share Posted June 24, 2006 There is a low pressure and high pressure tap, this is the low pressure tap where refrigerant is put in. There is a black cap that goes on that tap, but it will not leak if that black cap is off, if that is what you mean. There is a valve in there that is sort of like the one on an air compressor to attach hoses and tools. The cover is more or less to keep dirt out. The accumulator should have come with two black caps on the inlet and outlet, keep them on until you install it, air will ruin the desiccant. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted June 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2006 There is a low pressure and high pressure tap, this is the low pressure tap where refrigerant is put in. There is a black cap that goes on that tap, but it will not leak if that black cap is off, if that is what you mean. There is a valve in there that is sort of like the one on an air compressor to attach hoses and tools. The cover is more or less to keep dirt out. The accumulator should have come with two black caps on the inlet and outlet, keep them on until you install it, air will ruin the desiccant. Ok thanks.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 25, 2006 Report Share Posted June 25, 2006 You must install the cover on the port - the black plastic cap as it is the seal. The schrader valve in the port is the first seal but the o-ring in the cap is what seals it - without it, it will leak slowly. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 25, 2006 Report Share Posted June 25, 2006 I stand corrected... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted June 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2006 Can I buy a cap for it at O'Reillys, cuase it came without a cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 25, 2006 Report Share Posted June 25, 2006 Does the old one fit? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted June 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2006 the one on the old accumulator? The original accumulator doesn't have that low pressure tap on it just has the in and out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 You have the wrong accumulator - you need to get the correct one for your car. The low pressue port on your car is probably on the hose that is between the accumulator and the evaporator - that's why the original accumulator has only an inlet and an outlet. The pre-97s had the port on the accumulator. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted June 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 I'll have to go buy another accumulator...About flushing the system, I spoke with a mechanic he told me that it all has to be flushed out even the condenser, that it wouldnt make sense just to do the lines and evaporator. That he can flush out the condenser without taking it out...He told me he can do it for 75 - 80$ that it takes an 1hr to 1hr and a half...Should I just let him flush the system or I really really don't need to flush the condenser? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 I'll have to go buy another accumulator...About flushing the system, I spoke with a mechanic he told me that it all has to be flushed out even the condenser, that it wouldnt make sense just to do the lines and evaporator. That he can flush out the condenser without taking it out...He told me he can do it for 75 - 80$ that it takes an 1hr to 1hr and a half...Should I just let him flush the system or I really really don't need to flush the condenser? How is the shop going to flush the condenser in the car? If he is using R-134a and a recovery machine, it could be done. They inject R-134a into one end of the condenser and recover it from the other port. If he's using a flush solvent, it will settle to the bottom of the condenser and the air will take the path of least resistance (upper tubes) and the flush solvent will remain at the bottom of the condenser. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted June 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 Yea he was going to use a flush solvent...So just leave the condenser alone? Just priced an ac delco accumulator for 65$ at a local store, sound good? And am I better off just buying the flush gun and doing the lines myself? Can the flush gun be used over and over? or just once.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 If you want be totally safe, replace the condenser. You cannot flush a parallel flow condenser with a liquid solvent for the reasons I stated in my earlier post. It would be interesting to hear how the mechanic is going to get all the flush solvent out of the condenser. If there were just a few shavings in the orifice tube, you can probably get away without messing with the condenser. Flush guns can be used over and over - you just need to get new solvent. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted June 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 alright thanks agian.. I'll go ahead and leave the condensor alone. How do I take out the evaporator? Do all the lines have to come out in order to flush or just disconnected? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted June 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 Im stuck on how to disconnect the lines at the compressor and condenser? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 Just disconnect the lines - you won't need to remove the evaporator. Loosen the fitings and the lines pull apart. The lines on the compressor are attached with one bolt between the two lines. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted June 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 I got them off... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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