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I'm going to change out my A/C comp.


98deville

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What all do I need? Do I just by the comp. or comp. and the clutch? and what type of oil and how much to put in the new one. I was also thinking of just buying the comp. from an auto recycle center..I found a comp. there for 185. with a 2yr warranty I think.

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If you're going to swap out the compressor, make sure to get the compressor and clutch. The correct oil for your car is PAG-150 (high viscosity) which is available at most parts stores. You need to drain the oil out of the old compressor once it is removed and measure the quantity. If less than 1oz. is removed, add 2ozs. to the suction port of the new compressor while turning the clutch by hand. If more than 1oz. was drained from the old compressor, add the same amount of new oil back into the new compressor.

I would not install a junkyard compressor... they may have a warranty but, it only will cover the compressor and not the installation labor, refrigerant, and any damage the junkyard compressor might do to the system.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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The clutch is part of a new compressor, you dont need to buy it separately.

You need one of the AC Delco Compressors either reman or new. Get a quote from www.gmotors.com, they will give you a quote with the part numbers, that will help you make sure you are getting the right compressor.

I have purchased a lot of parts from gmotors by the way they are good also

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

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remanufactured... The Rockauto link you posted listed one for about $270

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I did mine last year. If your compressor threw any debris and the orifice tube was clogged, you will need to flush the entire system. Either way I would flush it to get the old oil out of the system. I have a flush gun that I could lend you if you want. Do you have a compressor?

If you had debris you will need to replace the condenser as they are impossible to flush. Replace all your o-rings. GO to this site acsource.com they sell an entire kit of o-rings for your model. I would replace all o-rings. Get some nylog also for the o-rings

I would ask KHE about the REMAN vs. NEW. I think an AC DELCO REMAN is OK but only because its AC DELCO. I am sure KHE will stop into this post, he is out AC expert and I am sure he will have some suggestions and advice for you.

Here is my thread complete with photos from when I did my system, on page 2 is a picture of my orifice tube (that is what I mean by clogged with debris). I used the name Scotty back then. I hope this thread is helpful, KHE helped me through the process. Mike

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I'm not sure if it has any debris. My a/c one day just stopped blowing cold.. I had it looked at awile back for leaks, no leaks or anything it was just a weak comp. they said. I had someone else see it today and said the same. That the comp. isn't fuctioning. The clutch is kicking in but no comp. I think the low side reading was at 40 and the high didnt move up none..he said it should've been around 250psi for the high...I don't think there's any debris...I also just had it vacumed out for no cost.

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I'm not sure if it has any debris. My a/c one day just stopped blowing cold.. I had it looked at awile back for leaks, no leaks or anything it was just a weak comp. they said. I had someone else see it today and said the same. That the comp. isn't fuctioning. The clutch is kicking in but no comp. I think the low side reading was at 40 and the high didnt move up none..he said it should've been around 250psi for the high...I don't think there's any debris...I also just had it vacumed out for no cost.

When you say vacuumed I assume you mean evacuated and then recharged? They evacuate the system for about 30 to 45 minutes with a vacuum pump. This is not the same as flushing the system. You need to pull the orifice tube and have a look to determine if there is debris. Did they look at the orifice tube?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Sounds like the reed valves in the compressor bought the farm... pull the orifice tube and inspect it for metal shavings/debris. If there is any debris, you'll need to flush the system and add 8 ozs. of oil balanced between the accumulator and compressor.

If there is not any debris in the orifice tube, just replace the compressor and add the oil based on my previous post. A remanufactured AC Delco compressor is probably OK but that is the ONLY remanufactured compressor I'd use...Stay away from the "Four Siezens" brand of reman. compressors - they're JUNK.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Yea thats what I meant they evacuated the system...Then he said to put a new comp. with a new orfice tube, dryer and o-rings, then to oil all the o-rings and all the thread fittings plus the dryer and then put some in the comp. then he said to make sure I blow the a/c lines with an air comp. to get out all the dye I had in there .

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Leave the dye in there as long as it was the proper amount for the system. You won't be able to remove much with the compressed air and you run the risk of removing more oil from the system. If you replace the accumulator, with the old one on the bench, drill a hole in the bottom of the old accumulator and then drain the oil. Add 1 ounce more oil than what was drained to the new accumulator. The accumulator should be fine to reuse unless the system was open for days. If you did not have any debris in the orifice tube, the existing accumulator should be OK but many times, the compressor warranty will not be valid unless the accumulator has been replaced.

Use PAG-150 refriferant oil for the R-134a system but use 500 or 525 viscosity mineral oil to lube the o-rings as I stated in my earlier posts.

After all the work is complete, you will need to have the system vacuumed down to remove all traces of air and moisture in the system and charged with 2.0 lbs. of R-134a.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Yes - you will also need to flush the lines and the evaporator with an appropriate solvent. Be sure to install the orifice tube with the long end pointed toward the condenser (away from the evaporator) if you don't, you will ruin the sensor.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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The metal shavings are now in the condenser. It will be near impossible to flush the condenser. If you don't replace it those shavings will 1) back up into the compressor and 2) clog the new orifice tube.

I purchased all my parts from GM. Kevin will speak to aftermarket parts. As we know the compressor should be AC Delco.

You need to detach each line and flush it individually. Flush the evaporator separately. Use a flush gun and compressor. I found flushing to be the hardest part especially flushing the evaporator.

This is the flush gun:

http://www.acsource.com/index.asp?PageActi...PROD&ProdID=345

Here is the flush (one quart is not enough, buy 2)

http://www.acsource.com/index.asp?PageActi...ROD&ProdID=1256

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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How much metal shavings were in the o-tube? Can you post a picture?

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Looks like you caught it in time. The amount of junk in the screen was similar to JasonA's when he had a shop repair his system - I think the shop flushed the system but did not replace the condenser. If you go that route, you'll need to disconnect the lines at the condenser to keep the flush solvent out of the condenser.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Looks like you caught it in time. The amount of junk in the screen was similar to JasonA's when he had a shop repair his system - I think the shop flushed the system but did not replace the condenser. If you go that route, you'll need to disconnect the lines at the condenser to keep the flush solvent out of the condenser.

Thats good to hear! So disconnect the lines at the condenser and flush out all the lines, I dont need to flush out the condenser? What about the evaporator? and do the other parts matter if they're AC Delco or not, like the accumulator?

So i'll be buying a new

a/c delco compressor , orfice tube and accumulator and all the o-rings...this sound right...

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Disconnect the lines - at the evaporator and the condenser and flush each line. You will also need to flush the evaporator. Don't flush the condenser - it is a parallel flow type and you will not be able to get all the flush solvent out of it. That's why when the system is really contaminated, it is recommended to replace the condenser.

You will be fine with the Delco compressor and aftermarket components for the remaining components. Replace all the o-rings and lube them appropriately per my earlier posts.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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