Devin O'Conor Posted June 5, 2006 Report Share Posted June 5, 2006 I know this has been discussed before but I need some diagnosis tips. I was out of town a few weeks ago...about 900 miles from home. The SLS sat for a couple of days. When I started it, it made a scraping metal sound. Like others, I thought it was the power steering pump. It made the drive home with no problems. I did some reading in the archives and found that others who had similar problems ultimatly found problems with the compressor. Well, mine only makes the noise on cold startup. When the compressor engages, it gets a bit quiter but does not go away. After ideling a while or even a short drive, the noise is totally gone. I bought a shorter belt to bypass the compressor to see if the noise would be gone but the engine is hot and the noise will not start up either way. Anyone have any idea if this sounds for sure like symptoms of a compressor problem? Any help is appreciated. Thanks. K.O.T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted June 5, 2006 Report Share Posted June 5, 2006 Could that "scraping" noise actually be something closer to a "rattle?" A catalytic converter on the way out will do that. Most suggest hitting the cat with a rubber mallet and listening for that noise. Just a thought. Regards, Warren There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devin O'Conor Posted June 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 Could that "scraping" noise actually be something closer to a "rattle?" A catalytic converter on the way out will do that. Most suggest hitting the cat with a rubber mallet and listening for that noise. Just a thought. Regards, Warren Thanks for your reply Warren but, no. I know how that sounds also. I have had that before. This is definatly coming from under the hood. I have installed the shorter belt but can't tell if the noise is gone until the engine is totally cold. I must say, I hope the noise is still there with the compressor bypassed but I bet it will be gone. I can't live without air conditioning. 85° vent air when driving does not feel good! K.O.T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted June 6, 2006 Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 I must say, I hope the noise is still there with the compressor bypassed but I bet it will be gone. I can't live without air conditioning. 85° vent air when driving does not feel good! Be careful what you wish for. It might be something worse! I have a somewhat (?) similar problem: an intermittent "squeal" at 1750rpm. After some time we've pretty much nailed it down to the A/C clutch. It will be changed shortly. Unlike your problem, however, it is speed rather than temperature dependent. I can live without A/C, but no A/C is an embarassment when a guest is in the car. In your case, only time will tell. Let us know what you find. Regards, Warren There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 6, 2006 Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 If the noise is gone with the compressor by-passed it sounds like your clutch might be slipping. You might get away with a new AC clutch assembly and not a new compressor. Its not a bad job to do yourself, but it might be hard to find someone that will do just the clutch assembly. Do a search under epricedright, he pulled his compressor hub bearing and clutch apart and you might get some tips from him If as King3244 noted your hub assembly is not wobbly, you might get away with adjusting the air gap on your clutch also. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king3244 Posted June 6, 2006 Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 with your belt off the compressor reach in there and see if there is any play in the clutch pulley.....engine off of course. Mine was quite obviously worn when I did that and I just had the clutch replaced and not the compressor on a 94 STS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devin O'Conor Posted June 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 with your belt off the compressor reach in there and see if there is any play in the clutch pulley.....engine off of course. Mine was quite obviously worn when I did that and I just had the clutch replaced and not the compressor on a 94 STS Okay. I went out and the pulley seems to spin freely but does sound like a light bearing noise. Is this normal? The pulley does not seem to wobble side to side. What exactly do you mean by play? I can also spin the clutch by hand. Is this normal? If the noise is gone with the compressor by-passed it sounds like your clutch might be slipping. You might get away with a new AC clutch assembly and not a new compressor. Its not a bad job to do yourself, but it might be hard to find someone that will do just the clutch assembly. Do a search under epricedright, he pulled his compressor hub bearing and clutch apart and you might get some tips from him If as King3244 noted your hub assembly is not wobbly, you might get away with adjusting the air gap on your clutch also. The compressor seems fine. When the noise isn't present, it sounds good and smooth and the A/C is good and cold. How would I adjust the air gap? K.O.T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 6, 2006 Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 I will let Kevin describe the air gap, I am not 100% sure if you can adjust the air gap on an old clutch, but I will leave that to him. It sounds like your hub isn't in bad shape if you are not getting any movement or play in your pulley hub bearing. Mine had a lot of play in it. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devin O'Conor Posted June 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 I will let Kevin describe the air gap, I am not 100% sure if you can adjust the air gap on an old clutch, but I will leave that to him. It sounds like your hub isn't in bad shape if you are not getting any movement or play in your pulley hub bearing. Mine had a lot of play in it. I'm wondering if maybe the bearings have lost their lubrication and just haven't let go yet. I'm sure they heat up. So, I will just leave the shorter belt on for now and fix it when I can afford it. I looked at GMPartsdirect.com and the new Pulley w/ Bearing is $100.92. I might as well put a new clutch on while I'm at it. That is $38.71. I can't live without air conditioning so the car will be parked until I can get it fixed. K.O.T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 6, 2006 Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 I would just replace the bearing in the pulley and be done with it. The bearing can most likely be purchased from a bearing supply house for about $10. You will need to press it out of the old pulley, press in the new bearing, and stake the bearing in place but it is not difficult. You can also do this work without losing the refrigerant charge. I would not replace the clutch - as long as the compressor engages/disengages, it is fine. You will need to set the clutch air gap - regardless of the route you choose though. The spec. is in the shop manual - the gap is inspected with feeler gages and adjusted using the removal and/or installation tool. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devin O'Conor Posted June 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 I would just replace the bearing in the pulley and be done with it. The bearing can most likely be purchased from a bearing supply house for about $10. You will need to press it out of the old pulley, press in the new bearing, and stake the bearing in place but it is not difficult. You can also do this work without losing the refrigerant charge. I would not replace the clutch - as long as the compressor engages/disengages, it is fine. You will need to set the clutch air gap - regardless of the route you choose though. The spec. is in the shop manual - the gap is inspected with feeler gages and adjusted using the removal and/or installation tool. Okay. I have gotten some tools to remove the clutch and pulley. The tool I got to remove the clutch plate is the wrong size. I'll have to try again on that. One question though. There is no nut in the middle of the clutch plate. There is something resembling a washer only. Is this some sort of strange nut that needs removed first or is there no nut and I just need the right tool to pull the clutch plate right off? K.O.T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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