skyman Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 In order to install #1 service main bearing the plugs need to be taken out in order to rotate the crank. Question is if anyone knows, seeing that the plugs have never been changed since I've owned the car, and it had 79k miles when I bought (117k now)it they're probably in there pretty good. Is it better to pull them with the engine cold or warmed up? I've heard stories of ripping out some of the engine side threads when pulling the plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 I am not sure why the crank must be rotated, but if that is true, ok. You can probably rotate it easily with the flywheel when the pan is off, just a though. I had a 91 Seville and changed my plugs a few times and never gave it a thought. I don't think it matters if the engine is hot or cold. Don't over tighten them when you install them. Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caddynut Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 Pull the plugs with the engine cold. IF you warm the engine, you risk of cracking the head when you put pressure on the plug since it has aluminum heads. Take your time with increasing pressure on your turning the old plug a little at a time. USE ANTI-SEAZE LUBRICANT on your new plugs when you put them back in so that they don't get stuck when you pull them next time. Makes a world of difference 2008 BMW 328xi 2007 Chrysler Aspen 2001 Cadillac Seville STS 2000 Ford Ranger XLT1998 Mitsubishi Spyder Convertible 1996 Saturn SC-11991 Ford F-1501979 Chevrolet Caprice1968 Ford LTD1965 VW Beetle "Herbie The Love Bug Replica** 1961 VW Beetle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 This is from the guru: DON'T use anti-cease on your plugs it can foul your plugs and cause a misfire. The OEM plugs have nickel plated threads on the shell to minimize the chances of "galvanic corrosion" between the dissimilar metals causing a problem. Plugs rarely give a problem quite honestly. Most problems experienced in removing plugs occur due to overtorqueing the plugs at the last installation". This is another reason to use OEM plugs Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 I am not sure why the crank must be rotated, but if that is true, ok. You can probably rotate it easily with the flywheel when the pan is off, just a though. I had a 91 Seville and changed my plugs a few times and never gave it a thought. I don't think it matters if the engine is hot or cold. Don't over tighten them when you install them. Mike He has to rotate the crank to remove the oil pan. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhinchley Posted May 11, 2006 Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 I changed mine with 79,000 miles and had no problems. The car was warm when I removed them. They came right out and they looked to be the original Delco plugs. But like mentioned.......the threads usually are messed up when over tightening, not on taking out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.