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my daughter took her 94 lebaron for an oil change they told her that she needed an engine flush for 14.99 more any comments jiffy lube

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The only think that should be flushed is a toilet. Drain and refill...with coolant and distilled water mixed at 50/50

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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No, no, no. Send her to her room!

:lol::lol::lol:

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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Ditto with the engine flush. Just change the oil

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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My son has a 94 Honda w/144,000 on it and a lifter started to click. We tried the Gunk engine flush to clean the oil passages & no luck.

After switching to synthetic oil the lifter click is gone.

For what its worth.....

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Todays oils are so much better than they were 20-30 years ago. They just don't sludge up like they used to. That is just a money maker for Jiffy Lube. Lets face it, will oil change intervals extending and consumers wiseing up to that, Jiffy Lube needs to suppliment their income. They saw a young female and figured it was easy pick'in. Credit her with asking you first and after you let here out of her room, make her read this thread.

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I approve of the Gunk motor wash on the shelf at your local Walmart Store ! I have used it about every 2-3 oil changes in my car along with Moblie 1 Synthic oil ! When my car went out to the Cadillac dealership to have the head gaskets replaced along with 14 other seals.

The insides of the value covers was so clean you could used the valve cover to hold your salad or any other type of food. It was clean and I was very impressed as well as proud of myself.

Michael Southward

Bloomington,Indiana

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Unfortunately, it sounds like your gaskets paid the price for having the internal metal kept clean. I trust the oil to keep the internals clean, & I wouldn't want any solvents squishing around in there reacting to the gaskets in some sort of way I don't understand & unknown to the manufacturers of both the original gaskets & the overall engine. just my $.02. Again, it reminds me of adding fuel injector cleaner into the tank - washing the varnish off my fuel pump motor windings :(

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Unfortunately, it sounds like your gaskets paid the price for having the internal metal kept clean. I trust the oil to keep the internals clean, & I wouldn't want any solvents squishing around in there reacting to the gaskets in some sort of way I don't understand & unknown to the manufacturers of both the original gaskets & the overall engine. just my $.02. Again, it reminds me of adding fuel injector cleaner into the tank - washing the varnish off my fuel pump motor windings :(

I'm with you!

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Unfortunately, it sounds like your gaskets paid the price for having the internal metal kept clean. I trust the oil to keep the internals clean, & I wouldn't want any solvents squishing around in there reacting to the gaskets in some sort of way I don't understand & unknown to the manufacturers of both the original gaskets & the overall engine. just my $.02. Again, it reminds me of adding fuel injector cleaner into the tank - washing the varnish off my fuel pump motor windings :(

I sure dont understand how a engine flush and synthetic oil leades to head gasket failure.

Please enlighten me.

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I was not referring to the head gasket failure. As we all know neglected antifreeze in a NS is a typical cause for that. I am referring to all the other oil gaskets etc. that can be affected by these cleaning solvents. In most cases there is very little pressure, and a leak can occur - especially on an older engine. fortunately I have seen read that some of these leaks can actually be corrected from the outside. The weakest point in an engine is the gaskets, and not the metal componants. I was just saying I wouldn't want to add something that will clean the metal at the expense of the gaskets.

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Very little pressure on what ? The last time I check the Northstar engine was of higher compression than what we might find within a standard engine. mines 10.3.1 and after 2000 was 10.1.1 I believe. Thats not really low. My Roadmaster had the LT1 in it with 10.5.1. These motors were bult to take abuse

I really never had an issues with the other gaskets but while it was all apart my thought was may as well do it. And years ago before my timee was even thought of they were using Kerosene to do this. I know how others feel about standard grade oil however why is it no longer recommended in the new Cadillacs ? HMM I have driven this car all over the country with very little problems.

Also Gm has a different thought on cleaning this issue. Ehh to me its all the same thing

Cadillac service bulletin 01-06-01-011 deals with oil burning on 1996-'99 Northstar V8s. The cure, says Cadillac, is to do a ring cleaning procedure (seems those long oil change intervals weren't such a good idea after all). Cadillac recommends using GM cleaning kit (P/N 12378545) and Kent-Moore J-45076 induction/evacuation tool to do the job. The cleaner is added into the cylinders through the spark plug holes and allowed to soak the rings for two hours. The cleaner and dissolved crud is then vacuumed out of the cylinders through the spark plug holes, followed by an oil change. Cleaning the throttle body and EGR valve is also recommended.

Michael -

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Some of us "might" want to understand how you are connecting head gasket rupture to combustion chamber carbon to drain-down (zero pressure) oil seepage to compression ratios.

Sounds like comparing apples to oranges to grapes to me. Help us (me) understand the point you are getting at.

PS. Read the Owner's Manual for your '98 model; Starburst symbol (dino) 10W-30 oil is recommended.

PSS. In fairness, my '98 vintage engine uses / loses one quart per 1,000 miles. I don't care about that.

PSSS. My '98 has been around the block a few times and has somehow survived to 145,000 + miles without the 01-06-01-011 procedure.

PSSSS. The Owner's Manual for my '04 engine calls for Starburst symbol (dino) 5W-30 oil.

PSSSSS. Why am I doing this?

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Cadillac service bulletin 01-06-01-011 deals with oil burning on 1996-'99 Northstar V8s. The cure, says Cadillac, is to do a ring cleaning procedure (seems those long oil change intervals weren't such a good idea after all).

Michael -

Longer oil change intervals have nothing to do with oil consumption or sticking rings. Sticking rings has to do with carbon build up at the compression ring and if memory serves me correctly, that is inpart because of it high placement on the piston. The rest has to do with lack of occassional WOT.

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Deleted, sort of.

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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Mike I don't know where to start with your post but you really need to keep an open mind about this stuff. Please do me a favor if you don't understand something or don't believe something, post it up for discussion or research it. You THROW out a statement like this like it is GOSPEL "seems those long oil change intervals weren't such a good idea after all" and your statement has NOTHING to do with the SYMPTOM that is discussed (rings caked or congested with carbon). I was going to ignore your post, but I care about the this board and don't want improper information disseminated.

winterset is not talking about head gaskets he is talking about oil gaskets like the case half, pan etc where there is NO pressure, he is not talking about the head gaskets and the pressure caused by the compression ratio.

Mike if I didn't know you were 24, I wouldn't be so easy on you. But do me a big favor, observe, learn, read, ask questions BEFORE making loaded statements that are way off base. TRY NOT to listen to what you are told by TRADITIONAL/TYPICAL OLD TIMER MECHANICS, things have changed and changed in a big way. I use to have my *smurf* handed to me on a REGULAR basis by the guru when I bought my NS after my 4.9 and also with my 4.9 because things were so different. I was a FIRST CLASS mechanic at Sun Shipbuilding and Drydock and built the Howard Hughes Glomar Explorer (the ship from the movie The Abyss and the ship the picked up the sunken Soviet sub), built cranes, frame bending machines, plasma cutters, pumps and I was a mechanic in a Cadillac dealer and I was HUMBLED when I came here! In addition, I have personally rebuilt two Cadillac 429's, a Chevy 327, 2 TurboHydramatic 350s, a TH425, tons of AFB's, Quadrajets, and tons of head gasket, timing chains not to mention general maintenance. And I got my BUTT handed to me with the changes that have taken place, it was necessary to relearn everything. Not to mention that my Dad was a B17 mechanic and a Baldwin Locomotive mechanic who taught me everything. I remember at 6 years old standing on a milk carton looking at a 49 Mercury! I was packing wheel bearings and rebuilding generators on the living room floor at 6 years old. :lol:

I have been on this board and the prior boards 7 years and I still am schooled here. The best thing to do is to NOT make definitive statements until you understand what you are saying. And to ESPECIALLY NOT spit or throw MUD at things like the OLM, DEXCOOL etc until you know the ENTIRE scoop... If I were you I would interact WITHOUT making controversial statements until you have been around the block about 10 times. You will notice that I don't jump into posts that I DO NOT have strong experience in and I leave it to members who have direct experience. Look at KHE Kevin's Northstar Timesert job and you will see that I have NOT posted much, WHY? because I have NEVER timeserted a NS. But did you notice that members who HAVE timeserted an engine have been in that thread interacting with KHE? Ask questions, listen and learn... that is what I do... AND I still do that with 5,628 posts as SCOTTY and 1,185 posts as BBF... total 6,813 posts

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I guess you didnt see what my orignal post was and then what was said!

I do know I have alot to learn! I have only had five Cadillacs. And really the same could be said for running oil longer and it does break down as using a motor wash !

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I guess you didnt see what my orignal post was and then what was said!

I do know I have alot to learn! I have only had five Cadillacs. And really the same could be said for running oil longer and it does break down as using a motor wash !

Mike, simply having the Cadillacs is not the answer. It simply takes time. My parents and I have owned a 53, 59, 62, 64, 65, 66, 68, 74, 91 and 96 Caddy's, but the 91 and 96 are very different than the others. As far as oil, Mike oil is way better than it was years old. There is lot of information on this and other boards about how good the oil is today compared to years ago. The engines are better also, fuel injection is more efficient, there is no CHOKE and less fuel gets into the oil. The emissions systems work better and the engines run hotter and evaporate moisture and impurities out of the oil. Oil coolers are used. So not only is oil better the engines have improved. Years ago it was prudent to change your oil every 3000 miles. Here is the oil change recommendations for a 1973 Monte Carlo direct from the manual:

Use of only SE engine oil

Change oil every 4 months or 6,000 miles. If more than 6,000 miles are driven in a 4-month period, change oil each 6,000 miles.

Change oil each 2 months or 3,000 miles which ever occurs first, under the following conditions:

driving in dusty conditions

trailer pulling extensive idling

Short trip operation at freezing temperatures or enging not thoroughly warmed up

Replace oil filter every other oil change

Do you really think that you can take all of that into consideration and change the oil at the right time? The OLM takes many items into consideration like outside temp, trip duration, oil temp, average speed, etc and it makes an accurate determination as to when the oil needs to be changed much better than a human being could. Simply changing the oil at 3000 miles is wasteful both monitarily and oil wise. In 1973 they were getting up to 6000 miles between oil changes and only changing the filter at every other oil change..

Have you read up on the Oil Life Monitor and what do you think of it?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I guess you didnt see what my orignal post was and then what was said!

I do know I have alot to learn! I have only had five Cadillacs. And really the same could be said for running oil longer and it does break down as using a motor wash !

Mike, simply having the Cadillacs is not the answer. It simply takes time. My parents and I have owned a 53, 59, 62, 64, 65, 66, 68, 74, 91 and 96 Caddy's, but the 91 and 96 are very different than the others. As far as oil, Mike oil is way better than it was years old. There is lot of information on this and other boards about how good the oil is today compared to years ago. The engines are better also, fuel injection is more efficient, there is no CHOKE and less fuel gets into the oil. The emissions systems work better and the engines run hotter and evaporate moisture and impurities out of the oil. Oil coolers are used. So not only is oil better the engines have improved. Years ago it was prudent to change your oil every 3000 miles. Here is the oil change recommendations for a 1973 Monte Carlo direct from the manual:

Use of only SE engine oil

Change oil every 4 months or 6,000 miles. If more than 6,000 miles are driven in a 4-month period, change oil each 6,000 miles.

Change oil each 2 months or 3,000 miles which ever occurs first, under the following conditions:

driving in dusty conditions

trailer pulling extensive idling

Short trip operation at freezing temperatures or enging not thoroughly warmed up

Replace oil filter every other oil change

Do you really think that you can take all of that into consideration and change the oil at the right time? The OLM takes many items into consideration like outside temp, trip duration, oil temp, average speed, etc and it makes an accurate determination as to when the oil needs to be changed much better than a human being could. Simply changing the oil at 3000 miles is wasteful both monitarily and oil wise. In 1973 they were getting up to 6000 miles between oil changes and only changing the filter at every other oil change..

Have you read up on the Oil Life Monitor and what do you think of it?

Yes , I have and Im not impressed with it either.

oh and that mine also has a Transmission life one and it doesnt work. When asking the dealer they told me that they have never gotten an answer from Gm why that was. But my oil life never really seems to run that close. its there though

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OK

What do you know about the oil life monitor, what have you read and what is it that you don't like about it?

How do you know the Tranmission Oil Monitor does not work? I called mine up the other day with Autotap and it was at 92%. I am sure that GM can call yours up also. Is this the same dealer that neglected to time-sert your engine?

Tell us more Mike in order to have an opinion you have to have reasons, please explain your reasoning in detail. We have answers waiting in the wings for you. So go ahead explain yourself in more detail, simply saying you are not that impressed is not sufficient... You have the floor.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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