CadiKing Posted April 27, 2006 Report Share Posted April 27, 2006 Well I haven't got the Deville running on it's own yet, but it did run with some gas fed into it manully. I will attack that tonite with the new FPR. One thing I found is the water pump belt is about to go AGAIN due to oil from the front cam, which drives the water pump. I had the water pump belt break about 5,k miles ago, yet could not find the cause. Now I see the new belt is deteriorating, as it is wet with oil. How big of a job is it to replace the seal on the end of the cam. Has anyone done it? Is it part of the cover gasket, or is it seperate? What parts do I need to buy? Thanks in advance.. jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhall Posted April 27, 2006 Report Share Posted April 27, 2006 Jim, Use a power steering pulley remover / installer from your local auto parts store to remove the cam pulley. Should be about $25. Much cheaper than the J-38825 tool and you don't have to buy the separate installer tool. There are three small bolts that hold the seal retainer at the end of the valve cover. If this is the location of the leak, remove the retainer and replace the seal. If the camshaft seal is not leaking, check the valve cover bolts to make sure they are tight (10Nm or 89 lb in). If they are tight and there is indication of a valve cover gasket leak, remove the valve cover and replace the gasket. The spark plug hole gaskets can be reused if they are not damaged. Keep us posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CadiKing Posted April 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2006 Jim, Use a power steering pulley remover / installer from your local auto parts store to remove the cam pulley. Should be about $25. Much cheaper than the J-38825 tool and you don't have to buy the separate installer tool. There are three small bolts that hold the seal retainer at the end of the valve cover. If this is the location of the leak, remove the retainer and replace the seal. If the camshaft seal is not leaking, check the valve cover bolts to make sure they are tight (10Nm or 89 lb in). If they are tight and there is indication of a valve cover gasket leak, remove the valve cover and replace the gasket. The spark plug hole gaskets can be reused if they are not damaged. Keep us posted. JHall, Thanks for the insight. I didn't know there was a special seal there, but it makes sense... I will buy the seal and do the fix, along with a new water pump and belt for good measure... thanks again, I'll let you know... jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CadiKing Posted May 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 Jim, Use a power steering pulley remover / installer from your local auto parts store to remove the cam pulley. Should be about $25. Much cheaper than the J-38825 tool and you don't have to buy the separate installer tool. There are three small bolts that hold the seal retainer at the end of the valve cover. If this is the location of the leak, remove the retainer and replace the seal. If the camshaft seal is not leaking, check the valve cover bolts to make sure they are tight (10Nm or 89 lb in). If they are tight and there is indication of a valve cover gasket leak, remove the valve cover and replace the gasket. The spark plug hole gaskets can be reused if they are not damaged. Keep us posted. Thanks JHall, Well I have now determined the two easiest jobs on a '97 Deville are FPR and cam seal... The seal was $14 from GM. Bill at Autozone knew exactly what I was expaining about the shape of the pulley and provided a $50 rental tool which worked perfectly to remove and reassemble. Good news, easy job! Bad news, car still not running... lol The leak was apparently caused by a piece of the original belt wrapped around the cam shaft, causing it to wick... IfI had known, I could have dug out the strip of belt, and possibly sealed the lead as the seal looked fine when I replaced it... thanks for the heads up and help, jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhall Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 Jim, No problem. I figured that completed engine tear-down would come in handy for someone one day..... You did the right thing by replacing the seal. The piece of belt likely wore down the seal lip and it would have leaked at some point in the near future. I gave some though on your engine fuel issue. Did you mention that you checked the fuel filter located under the car? I don't recall seeing this in the thread. If it's plugged it will cause the same symptoms you are mentioning. I had a Chevy 1500 van do this and it turned out to be a bad fuel filter. Keep us posted! Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CadiKing Posted May 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 Jim, No problem. I figured that completed engine tear-down would come in handy for someone one day..... You did the right thing by replacing the seal. The piece of belt likely wore down the seal lip and it would have leaked at some point in the near future. I gave some though on your engine fuel issue. Did you mention that you checked the fuel filter located under the car? I don't recall seeing this in the thread. If it's plugged it will cause the same symptoms you are mentioning. I had a Chevy 1500 van do this and it turned out to be a bad fuel filter. Keep us posted! Jeff Jeff, I was told the filter is not the problem because it would have occurred over time... I will try to replace the filter tonight. I ordered a new pump from Bransington in Fla for $267 + $31 two day shipping. I have someone set up to do the work... I'll let you know how it turns out... thanks for the heads up again, jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CadiKing Posted May 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 Jim, No problem. I figured that completed engine tear-down would come in handy for someone one day..... You did the right thing by replacing the seal. The piece of belt likely wore down the seal lip and it would have leaked at some point in the near future. I gave some though on your engine fuel issue. Did you mention that you checked the fuel filter located under the car? I don't recall seeing this in the thread. If it's plugged it will cause the same symptoms you are mentioning. I had a Chevy 1500 van do this and it turned out to be a bad fuel filter. Keep us posted! Jeff Jeff, I tried to remove the fuel filter, but the line is rusted and could not get it to loosen. I sprayed penetrant on it and will try again tonight. The car is scheduled to be towed to the shop Wednesday.. thanks, jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhall Posted May 2, 2006 Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 Jim, This is the filter located under the driver side near front / rear door around the door post. It uses the "push in" connectors that are released in the same manner as the fuel line connections on the fuel rail. Yeah, the problem on my van happened over time. It would miss and hesitate when I stepped on the gas just like a bad plug, MAF or injector problem. It got to where it would not accelerate beyond 55 mph and the miss-fire / spitting was obvious. Anyway, I thought it might be a good idea to have a look at this before they replace the fuel pump. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CadiKing Posted May 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 Jim, This is the filter located under the driver side near front / rear door around the door post. It uses the "push in" connectors that are released in the same manner as the fuel line connections on the fuel rail. Yeah, the problem on my van happened over time. It would miss and hesitate when I stepped on the gas just like a bad plug, MAF or injector problem. It got to where it would not accelerate beyond 55 mph and the miss-fire / spitting was obvious. Anyway, I thought it might be a good idea to have a look at this before they replace the fuel pump. Good luck Jeff, Yes, that is the filter I was talking about. It has a plastic connector towards the tank, but it has a flair nut connection towards the engine. It has tags on it designating it as a fuel line, and looks too new to be original. The nut is rusted to the fuel line. I could not get the nut to spin, it wanted to rotate the fuel line. The rust is right at the connection, which has a bend 1/2" from the filter. I wonder if the fuel line has been replaced and when it was bent near the filter, it disturbed the coating on the fuel line, causing it to rust. The only rust is right there at the filter. Do I need a tool to remove the clip side? I will try again tonight to replace the filter. I didn't force it last night because I was trying to avoid more problems. Thanks for the heads up on the filter, Jeff. jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CadiKing Posted May 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2006 Jim, This is the filter located under the driver side near front / rear door around the door post. It uses the "push in" connectors that are released in the same manner as the fuel line connections on the fuel rail. Yeah, the problem on my van happened over time. It would miss and hesitate when I stepped on the gas just like a bad plug, MAF or injector problem. It got to where it would not accelerate beyond 55 mph and the miss-fire / spitting was obvious. Anyway, I thought it might be a good idea to have a look at this before they replace the fuel pump. Good luck Jeff, Yes, that is the filter I was talking about. It has a plastic connector towards the tank, but it has a flair nut connection towards the engine. It has tags on it designating it as a fuel line, and looks too new to be original. The nut is rusted to the fuel line. I could not get the nut to spin, it wanted to rotate the fuel line. The rust is right at the connection, which has a bend 1/2" from the filter. I wonder if the fuel line has been replaced and when it was bent near the filter, it disturbed the coating on the fuel line, causing it to rust. The only rust is right there at the filter. Do I need a tool to remove the clip side? I will try again tonight to replace the filter. I didn't force it last night because I was trying to avoid more problems. Thanks for the heads up on the filter, Jeff. jim Jeff, Well I did replace the fuel filter last night. First I removed the old filter and turned on the key. Gas was pumped out, but it surely wasn't trying to put out 50 lbs of pressure! I had 10 lbs when it was all back together. Thanks for your help, should be towed out today... jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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