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Valve Cover Gasket Leak Ruining Belt!


CadiKing

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Well I haven't got the Deville running on it's own yet, but it

did run with some gas fed into it manully. I will attack that

tonite with the new FPR.

One thing I found is the water pump belt is about to go AGAIN

due to oil from the front cam, which drives the water pump.

I had the water pump belt break about 5,k miles ago, yet

could not find the cause. Now I see the new belt is deteriorating,

as it is wet with oil.

How big of a job is it to replace the seal on the end of the cam.

Has anyone done it?

Is it part of the cover gasket, or is it seperate?

What parts do I need to buy?

Thanks in advance..

jim

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Jim,

Use a power steering pulley remover / installer from your local auto parts store to remove the cam pulley. Should be about $25. Much cheaper than the J-38825 tool and you don't have to buy the separate installer tool.

There are three small bolts that hold the seal retainer at the end of the valve cover. If this is the location of the leak, remove the retainer and replace the seal.

If the camshaft seal is not leaking, check the valve cover bolts to make sure they are tight (10Nm or 89 lb in). If they are tight and there is indication of a valve cover gasket leak, remove the valve cover and replace the gasket. The spark plug hole gaskets can be reused if they are not damaged.

Keep us posted.

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Jim,

Use a power steering pulley remover / installer from your local auto parts store to remove the cam pulley. Should be about $25. Much cheaper than the J-38825 tool and you don't have to buy the separate installer tool.

There are three small bolts that hold the seal retainer at the end of the valve cover. If this is the location of the leak, remove the retainer and replace the seal.

If the camshaft seal is not leaking, check the valve cover bolts to make sure they are tight (10Nm or 89 lb in). If they are tight and there is indication of a valve cover gasket leak, remove the valve cover and replace the gasket. The spark plug hole gaskets can be reused if they are not damaged.

Keep us posted.

JHall,

Thanks for the insight. I didn't know there was a special seal there, but it makes sense...

I will buy the seal and do the fix, along with a new water pump and belt for good measure...

thanks again,

I'll let you know...

jim

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Jim,

Use a power steering pulley remover / installer from your local auto parts store to remove the cam pulley. Should be about $25. Much cheaper than the J-38825 tool and you don't have to buy the separate installer tool.

There are three small bolts that hold the seal retainer at the end of the valve cover. If this is the location of the leak, remove the retainer and replace the seal.

If the camshaft seal is not leaking, check the valve cover bolts to make sure they are tight (10Nm or 89 lb in). If they are tight and there is indication of a valve cover gasket leak, remove the valve cover and replace the gasket. The spark plug hole gaskets can be reused if they are not damaged.

Keep us posted.

Thanks JHall,

Well I have now determined the two easiest jobs on a '97 Deville are FPR and cam seal...

The seal was $14 from GM. Bill at Autozone knew exactly what I was expaining about

the shape of the pulley and provided a $50 rental tool which worked perfectly to remove

and reassemble. Good news, easy job! Bad news, car still not running... lol

The leak was apparently caused by a piece of the original belt wrapped around the

cam shaft, causing it to wick...

IfI had known, I could have dug out the strip of belt, and possibly sealed the lead as

the seal looked fine when I replaced it...

thanks for the heads up and help,

jim

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Jim,

No problem. I figured that completed engine tear-down would come in handy for someone one day.....

You did the right thing by replacing the seal. The piece of belt likely wore down the seal lip and it would have leaked at some point in the near future.

I gave some though on your engine fuel issue. Did you mention that you checked the fuel filter located under the car? I don't recall seeing this in the thread. If it's plugged it will cause the same symptoms you are mentioning. I had a Chevy 1500 van do this and it turned out to be a bad fuel filter.

Keep us posted!

Jeff

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Jim,

No problem. I figured that completed engine tear-down would come in handy for someone one day.....

You did the right thing by replacing the seal. The piece of belt likely wore down the seal lip and it would have leaked at some point in the near future.

I gave some though on your engine fuel issue. Did you mention that you checked the fuel filter located under the car? I don't recall seeing this in the thread. If it's plugged it will cause the same symptoms you are mentioning. I had a Chevy 1500 van do this and it turned out to be a bad fuel filter.

Keep us posted!

Jeff

Jeff,

I was told the filter is not the problem because it would have occurred over time...

I will try to replace the filter tonight. I ordered a new pump from Bransington in Fla for

$267 + $31 two day shipping.

I have someone set up to do the work...

I'll let you know how it turns out...

thanks for the heads up again,

jim

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Jim,

No problem. I figured that completed engine tear-down would come in handy for someone one day.....

You did the right thing by replacing the seal. The piece of belt likely wore down the seal lip and it would have leaked at some point in the near future.

I gave some though on your engine fuel issue. Did you mention that you checked the fuel filter located under the car? I don't recall seeing this in the thread. If it's plugged it will cause the same symptoms you are mentioning. I had a Chevy 1500 van do this and it turned out to be a bad fuel filter.

Keep us posted!

Jeff

Jeff,

I tried to remove the fuel filter, but the line is rusted and could not get it to loosen.

I sprayed penetrant on it and will try again tonight.

The car is scheduled to be towed to the shop Wednesday..

thanks,

jim

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Jim,

This is the filter located under the driver side near front / rear door around the door post. It uses the "push in" connectors that are released in the same manner as the fuel line connections on the fuel rail.

Yeah, the problem on my van happened over time. It would miss and hesitate when I stepped on the gas just like a bad plug, MAF or injector problem. It got to where it would not accelerate beyond 55 mph and the miss-fire / spitting was obvious.

Anyway, I thought it might be a good idea to have a look at this before they replace the fuel pump.

Good luck :)

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Jim,

This is the filter located under the driver side near front / rear door around the door post. It uses the "push in" connectors that are released in the same manner as the fuel line connections on the fuel rail.

Yeah, the problem on my van happened over time. It would miss and hesitate when I stepped on the gas just like a bad plug, MAF or injector problem. It got to where it would not accelerate beyond 55 mph and the miss-fire / spitting was obvious.

Anyway, I thought it might be a good idea to have a look at this before they replace the fuel pump.

Good luck :)

Jeff,

Yes, that is the filter I was talking about. It has a plastic connector towards the tank,

but it has a flair nut connection towards the engine. It has tags on it designating

it as a fuel line, and looks too new to be original. The nut is rusted to the fuel line.

I could not get the nut to spin, it wanted to rotate the fuel line. The rust is right

at the connection, which has a bend 1/2" from the filter. I wonder if the fuel line has

been replaced and when it was bent near the filter, it disturbed the coating on the

fuel line, causing it to rust. The only rust is right there at the filter.

Do I need a tool to remove the clip side?

I will try again tonight to replace the filter. I didn't force it last night because I was

trying to avoid more problems.

Thanks for the heads up on the filter, Jeff.

jim

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Jim,

This is the filter located under the driver side near front / rear door around the door post. It uses the "push in" connectors that are released in the same manner as the fuel line connections on the fuel rail.

Yeah, the problem on my van happened over time. It would miss and hesitate when I stepped on the gas just like a bad plug, MAF or injector problem. It got to where it would not accelerate beyond 55 mph and the miss-fire / spitting was obvious.

Anyway, I thought it might be a good idea to have a look at this before they replace the fuel pump.

Good luck :)

Jeff,

Yes, that is the filter I was talking about. It has a plastic connector towards the tank,

but it has a flair nut connection towards the engine. It has tags on it designating

it as a fuel line, and looks too new to be original. The nut is rusted to the fuel line.

I could not get the nut to spin, it wanted to rotate the fuel line. The rust is right

at the connection, which has a bend 1/2" from the filter. I wonder if the fuel line has

been replaced and when it was bent near the filter, it disturbed the coating on the

fuel line, causing it to rust. The only rust is right there at the filter.

Do I need a tool to remove the clip side?

I will try again tonight to replace the filter. I didn't force it last night because I was

trying to avoid more problems.

Thanks for the heads up on the filter, Jeff.

jim

Jeff,

Well I did replace the fuel filter last night.

First I removed the old filter and turned on the

key. Gas was pumped out, but it surely wasn't

trying to put out 50 lbs of pressure!

I had 10 lbs when it was all back together.

Thanks for your help, should be towed out today...

jim

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