MAC Posted November 22, 2005 Report Share Posted November 22, 2005 Today my tensioner pulley failed. I knew there was a problem when I detected its noisy bearing with my mechanics stethoscope. This past weekend I planned to repack the bearing but unfortunately I was too lazy and decided to wait—bad decision. On my way to work I punched it while merging and next thing I see is “BATTERY NO CHARGE.” Well, I figure the PepBoys alternator gave out for the fourth time but then noticed no power steering. I though, wait a minute, I don’t remember a bad alternator effecting power steering. Then I thought—come to think of it I don’t hear the pulley any more. I realized the pulley must have failed and the belt either broke or fell off. I was able to drive about 100 yards to a business complex near work. A co-worker picked me up and was nice enough to bring me to a local auto parts dealer where I purchased a Goodyear pulley for $16.45, plus tax (total $17.44). I would have purchased one from Cadillac but was told it's not sold separately and the pulley and tensioner together costs about $98, plus tax. The Goodyear pulley installed easily and luckily the belt was fine and I drove away. Not too bad, just a little grease on the work cloths. Just a word of advice: Find out where the squeaks and squeals are coming from and make the necessary repairs as soon as possible. If you don't, you may find yourself stranded. I was lucky because I was close to work and a co-worker helped me out. BTW, the pulley melted around the bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted November 22, 2005 Report Share Posted November 22, 2005 Your old bearing was a sealed bearing wasn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 22, 2005 Report Share Posted November 22, 2005 In some cases you can pry the "seal" out and repack the bearing. I have done that on several different applications. On others, I have drilled out the rivets R &R'ed the bearing and put it back together with screws and nuts vs rivets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted November 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2005 If the seal is carefully removed it can be repacked with grease. Not too long ago I did repack it. It looks like the grease leaked out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 22, 2005 Report Share Posted November 22, 2005 Mac, I have my old tensioner, if you need it you are welcome to it, Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted November 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2005 BodybyFisher, I appreciate the offer. At this point I think it should be OK. Thank you. My tensioner is still in reasonably good shape. I should point out that I carefully removed the tensioner realizing that it's possible to strip the threads if the process is rushed. I backed the bolt out slightly then turn the ratchet clockwise a bit, repeated the process until the bolt came loose where it was moving nice and smoothly. Prior to reassembling, I used a bit of anti-seize lubricant on the pulley screw and tensioner bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted November 22, 2005 Report Share Posted November 22, 2005 In some cases you can pry the "seal" out and repack the bearing. I have done that on several different applications. On others, I have drilled out the rivets R &R'ed the bearing and put it back together with screws and nuts vs rivets. Wow, I didn't know that could be done. I always thought sealed meant just that...sealed. I learn something here everyday. Most bearings are so cheap though, but I imagine if you're in a pinch, then... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 22, 2005 Report Share Posted November 22, 2005 Well, one time I think I did it on a Blazer. They did not sell the pulley only. I had to buy the entire tensioner assembly. As well as I can recall it was about $60 and that was from Napa not the dealer. I used the above method and replaced the bearing for $8. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 22, 2005 Report Share Posted November 22, 2005 In some cases you can pry the "seal" out and repack the bearing. I have done that on several different applications. On others, I have drilled out the rivets R &R'ed the bearing and put it back together with screws and nuts vs rivets. Wow, I didn't know that could be done. I always thought sealed meant just that...sealed. I learn something here everyday. Most bearings are so cheap though, but I imagine if you're in a pinch, then... I used to feel the same way. However the guru recommended doing that on many occasions so I don't feel as apprehensive about the idea as I used to. The only problem I have with it, is... I don't think the covers come off easily, but knowing the guru, I am sure he had a fool proof method method to R&R the cover.. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted November 22, 2005 Report Share Posted November 22, 2005 In some cases you can pry the "seal" out and repack the bearing. I have done that on several different applications. On others, I have drilled out the rivets R &R'ed the bearing and put it back together with screws and nuts vs rivets. Wow, I didn't know that could be done. I always thought sealed meant just that...sealed. I learn something here everyday. Most bearings are so cheap though, but I imagine if you're in a pinch, then... I used to feel the same way. However the guru recommended doing that on many occasions so I don't feel as apprehensive about the idea as I used to. The only problem I have with it, is... I don't think the covers come off easily, but knowing the guru, I am sure he had a fool proof method method to R&R the cover.. So when bearings become worn with play in them, does grease typically help that? Noisy I can see, but play as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 22, 2005 Report Share Posted November 22, 2005 Thats true. Now that we are talking about it, on my tensioner, idler wheel and WP tensioner, the common thing that noticed was a tiny bit of play, bearly visible, but you could feel it. They had a little metal to metal feeling to them, if you get my drift, like maybe they were dry inside. The had an audible roll to them. The new wheels had no play and you could kind of feel the grease drag. I will say this, none of the components I mentioned were at the end of their service life. I think they could be re-greased and still be servicible. I still kept them on the shelf and if anyone here is in need I will offer them or if I buy a NS in the future I will use them, if I need to. But, my engine was JUST a touch quieter with the new wheels, just a touch. Driving at highway speeds there is no engine noise where before it didn't whine but it gave off something audible. It was probably a radiated hum due to the metal on metal transmission of sound. I figured that they had 65,000 miles on them and I was focused on quieting my engine after my AC hub seized up. I hope to buy an STS some day after re-greasing them they could be serviceable. I have noticed tiny lines of grease at times streaming across the bearing covers, thrown outward from centrifical force. Its possible that grease may leak out ever so slowly. Its possible that the guru knew this and if he felt a dry bearing like mine, he would immediately have known that it needed to be re-packed. Thats my theory. As a matter of fact, I just found this link (note that its related to bikes but the concept is the same). http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-64917 Check out this statement: Astra If they just feel rough and there is no play, you can service them. Just pull out the bearings and, using a needle or a scalpel blade, pickout the black rubberised cover. Now you can just blast out the old grease and repack them. The rubberised cover should just slot back in. If there is any play side-to-side, like cro-mo said, just ditch 'em And this Bearings with plastic seals can be refurbished if not spalled or rusted. The plastic shield is easily popped out and back in. Bearings with metal shields are not as approachable and the shield for all practical purposes is not removable or if removed not replaceable. These bearings are standard sizes and inexpensive to replace. Steve Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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