Vince P Posted November 15, 2005 Report Share Posted November 15, 2005 1994 Seville-Northstar Need a little help/advice on replacing the Fuel Pressure Regulator This engine has the intake manifold cover as part of the manifold. The Fuel Pressure Regulator does not have a vacuum hose; it used the vacuum in the intake manifold to operate. I have removed the intake manifold cover. I can raise the right side of the fuel rail with the attached injectors. The left side (closest to the throttle body) does not come up. My understanding is that the “O rings on the bottom of the Fuel Pressure Regulator and the Fuel Inlet attachment to the fuel rail is holding it in. Can I just pry these points up? Is the wiring harness through the bottom of the manifold also attached with an “O ring”? How do I raise the wiring harness? My manual says to disconnect the wiring harness at the ISC bracket. Is this necessary? Everything is made out of plastic or nylon and I am really timid about forcing anything. I would appreciate any help guidance, or suggestion? Vince P P.S. I appreciate this website which guided me to the Fuel Pressure Regulator as the cause of my hard starting problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmpafford Posted November 15, 2005 Report Share Posted November 15, 2005 Does anyone know if his car is subject to the fuel rail recall? If so, the dealer will replace the FPR when they replace the fuel rail (at least they did with mine). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince P Posted November 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2005 My understanding is that, to date, there is no recall on the 1994s to replace the fuel rail. Vince Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted November 15, 2005 Report Share Posted November 15, 2005 The recall was only for '95-'97 models. There should be a metal clip that retains the FPR. Once that is removed, it will lift right out. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 16, 2005 Report Share Posted November 16, 2005 Be sure to bleed off any fuel pressure via the schreader valve before you pull the FPR or you may get a gasoline shower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted November 16, 2005 Report Share Posted November 16, 2005 There should be a metal clip that retains the FPR. Once that is removed, it will lift right out. This is how it is on the '95 models with the composite intake. Is not the FPR design a bit different (and in a different location) on the 93-94 cars with the old intake? Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted November 16, 2005 Report Share Posted November 16, 2005 If I remember right the ISC wiring harness needs to be unplugged to get the front half of the fuel rail out. If you can't get it out you still can get the FPR out if you are carefull. The FPR just snaps into the fuel rail and unplugs from the fuel line. The fuel rail has tabs to hold the FPR in and just pry off the fuel line. Be carefull using an aftermarket FPR. I got one from NAPA and it would not snap into the fuel rail, it looked the same but it was greater in diameter, I then got one from Advance and it did not last 6 months. Ended up putting back in the old one I had that was not bad from the start. If it is spewing gas from the vacuum side when you turn the key on (engine off) then it needs replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted November 17, 2005 Report Share Posted November 17, 2005 During the summer I replaced my FPR. If you buy a GM FPR, which you should, make sure the O-ring is fitted snug inside the FPR—not too tight. Also, the O-ring at the front of the rail is probably dry and may break, so I recommend that you have a replacement available. Don’t bother going to Cadillac because the basic O-ring kit costs about $60 and, if I remember correctly, about $150 for the complete kit for fuel rail to fuel injectors. I went to Ace Hardware and bought a #48 O-ring, which should work. I happened to MacGyver my rail with a grommet and O-ring around the grommet purchased from Home Depot. So far, so good. Make sure there are no leaks as it can take more than once to position the regulator and refit the rail correctly to make a positive seal. I believe the cover should be torque down by working from the center screws outward, alternating from left side to right side. Don’t over torque because you’ll strip the screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted November 19, 2005 Report Share Posted November 19, 2005 During the summer I replaced my FPR. If you buy a GM FPR, which you should, make sure the O-ring is fitted snug inside the FPR—not too tight. Also, the O-ring at the front of the rail is probably dry and may break, so I recommend that you have a replacement available. Don’t bother going to Cadillac because the basic O-ring kit costs about $60 and, if I remember correctly, about $150 for the complete kit for fuel rail to fuel injectors. I went to Ace Hardware and bought a #48 O-ring, which should work. I happened to MacGyver my rail with a grommet and O-ring around the grommet purchased from Home Depot. So far, so good. Make sure there are no leaks as it can take more than once to position the regulator and refit the rail correctly to make a positive seal. I believe the cover should be torque down by working from the center screws outward, alternating from left side to right side. Don’t over torque because you’ll strip the screws. Mac, I would change out that o-ring immediately with the GM oring. The o-rings sold in hardware stores are made of a material that is for exposure to water only - they are not meant for fuel or oil exposure. I inquired about that same brand of o-ring awhile back to see if it was suitable for use with refrigeration oil and refrigerant. It was not... Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted November 19, 2005 Report Share Posted November 19, 2005 Mac, I would change out that o-ring immediately with the GM oring. The o-rings sold in hardware stores are made of a material that is for exposure to water only - they are not meant for fuel or oil exposure. I inquired about that same brand of o-ring awhile back to see if it was suitable for use with refrigeration oil and refrigerant. It was not... KHE, Thanks for the info. At the moment I don’t have the Danco o-ring installed. I just bought it just in case the rigged-up grommet and o-ring that is currently installed fails. However, considering the possibility of failure, I’ll check around the Internet and buy the right o-ring. There are a number of sites that sell o-rings and I’m sure I can find the right one. MAC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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