KrisR Posted November 15, 2005 Report Share Posted November 15, 2005 So, now that the weather is cooling off in my area, my HVAC took a bit of a vacation it seems.... It just doesn't want to put out any heat. Ironically enough, when it was 60 degrees outside, it would spew hot air out of the vents when I wanted it to. Today's high was 38 degrees, and nothing but cold air came out of the heating system. Actually lukewarm air came out of the passenger side, but cold came out of the driver's side. It seems like it has something to do with how the HVAC gets its interior temp reading. A couple days ago, it would put out heat, but only when I had the temp set at or above 85 degrees. The passenger side was more like 80 degrees and it would put out heat. So there seems to be something wrong with a temp sensor somewhere, as its different from driver to passanger side. Just in case, I checked the coolant level and it was right up to the top. Also, and this may or may not be related, but when I accelerate from a slow speed or a stop, I can hear kind of a sloshing/gurgling sound from inside/under the dash somewhere. Not sure what this is or how to fix it. To add insult to injury, the heated seat on the driver's side doesn't work....all the other ones to. The switch seems to operate, as the light comes on when I hit the switch, but no heat. Bad element/wiring? Does anybody have any ideas or suggestions? Thanks, Kris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 16, 2005 Report Share Posted November 16, 2005 The seat heat sounds just like my passenger side. It is still under warranty and was diagnosed as an element. Waiting for parts now. Your heat issue sounds like you have air in the system, which would lead me to believe that the purge line is pluged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrisR Posted November 16, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2005 Thanks for the reply. Where is the purge line? How do I get rid of the air? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 16, 2005 Report Share Posted November 16, 2005 The purge line is the 3/8" line that runs from the water pump to the surge tank. With the engine idleing (cold, so as not to burn yourself) pull the line off of the surge tank. There should be a coolant flow. Maybe not steady at idle but there should definately be coolant gurgling out. If not, remove the line and clear it as well as the "hollow bolt" that it connects to on the other end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrisR Posted November 16, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2005 Thanks Larry! I will check it out tomorrow.....too tired/lazy right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrisR Posted November 16, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2005 Pardon my ignorance, but is the 'surge tank' the same as (or looks like) the coolant overflow? Is the line you are referring to the one on the right side (passenger side) of the coolant overflow? If so, I pulled it off of the tank and there was no coolant flow. I will now need to pull it off completely and clean it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrisR Posted November 16, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2005 Update #2: I also pulled the line off near the water pump while it was running, and nothing came out. A little coolant trickled out of the line going to the surge tank, but nothing came out of the water pump side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted November 16, 2005 Report Share Posted November 16, 2005 Update #2: I also pulled the line off near the water pump while it was running, and nothing came out. A little coolant trickled out of the line going to the surge tank, but nothing came out of the water pump side. That is the coolant hose that connects to a hollow bolt, correct? And that hollow bolt also attaches the engine lift bracket to the engine, correct? If yes, remove that hollow bolt and clean out the obstruction. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrisR Posted November 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2005 Thanks Jim, I did that, and the heat worked fine for about 10 minutes, then it turned to cool air coming out of the vents again. The hollow bolt was almost completely clogged, by the way. What would be the next step in this process? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted November 17, 2005 Report Share Posted November 17, 2005 Have you checked for trouble codes (DTCs)? Always usefull information, as there are many actuators under there and they will set codes. From time to time, my cabin temperature gets "confused". What I do is; engine running and at operating temperature, A/C off, select driver temp. selector and passenger temp. selector both to 60 degrees. After a minute or so at 60, select both sides to 90 degrees. This will exercise all the actuators and possibly eliminate a (temporarily) sticky air control valve. Now that your purge line is operating properly, your cooling system will get rid of the air during normal driving and your (cold) coolant level might drop just a little. Plus, the gurgling noise should be gone. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 17, 2005 Report Share Posted November 17, 2005 Take it for a drive or run it at 3k for a bit. Now that the purge line is cleared it will purge any air from the system which may not have been accomplished just idling (if that is what you did). Once all air is purged you should have normal heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrisR Posted November 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2005 Take it for a drive or run it at 3k for a bit. Now that the purge line is cleared it will purge any air from the system which may not have been accomplished just idling (if that is what you did). Once all air is purged you should have normal heat. Yeah, actually I did drive it around for a bit...that's when the heat quit again. Hopefully it will just take some time to purge all the air out. Thanks again for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 17, 2005 Report Share Posted November 17, 2005 WOW, that is strange. I would expect it to purge almost immediately. Try pulling the purge line one more time to be sure it did not get plugged again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximln Posted November 17, 2005 Report Share Posted November 17, 2005 My car has been making a strange gurgling noise as well. It seems when I first turn it on and accelerate, I hear the gurgling noise and it's been driving me crazy. I've never heard that before. While the heat in my car works fine, on occasion, the coolant temperature will go past the half way mark, probably between half way and the red zone, and stay there for a short time and then immediately correct itself. Usually by the time I check it, the temperature is back to normal. I did notice coolant seeping from around the surge tank cap so I did change the cap and everything seemed to be fine but then it started to do it again. It only does it maybe once a month. Does the gurgling mean that I have air in the system as well? How does it get in there? I replaced the thermostat about a year and half ago but I was thinking of replacing it again and having the coolant system flushed. Do you think that is necessary or do you think I just need to purge the system. Thanks, Max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted November 17, 2005 Report Share Posted November 17, 2005 Check the coolant concentration, anything more or less than 50/50 mix will cause problems like what you have. Also if the purge line clogged, the heater core could also be clogged. Find the heater core lines and see if coolant comes out the other line while flushing it with a water hose. Is the passenger front floor wet? The sloshing could be water trapped in the duct under the outside window vents. There is a drain plug down low about the middle of the firewall that will clog up. You can see it from under the car, but do not be under it when you stick something in it to clear it. You will get wet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximln Posted November 17, 2005 Report Share Posted November 17, 2005 There is nothing leaking on the floor and the heat works fine. It comes out really HOT! I just noticed the gurgling sound in the morning but never paid too much attention to it because nothing seemed to be wrong other than the coolant temperature occasionally going too high but then correcting itself right away. I never put the two together until I read these posts. I'm still thinking maybe a coolant flush would be a good idea. Thanks, Max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 17, 2005 Report Share Posted November 17, 2005 Max, Check the purge line as previously mentioned. You may have some air in the system that is not being purged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrisR Posted November 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2005 Update #3. Got a coolant flush yesterday. The heat now works moderately well (warm air coming out of the vents, not hot air) when engine RPM is above 2500 or so. If below 2500, air is lukewarm to cool coming out of the vents. The shop manager seemed to think that I need a pressure-flush of the heater core. Does this seem feasible? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted November 19, 2005 Report Share Posted November 19, 2005 Update #3. Got a coolant flush yesterday. The heat now works moderately well (warm air coming out of the vents, not hot air) when engine RPM is above 2500 or so. If below 2500, air is lukewarm to cool coming out of the vents. The shop manager seemed to think that I need a pressure-flush of the heater core. Does this seem feasible? Yes, probably flushing the heater core is necessary. It might be partially plugged. You can do it yourself by means of garden hose. Besides, make sure your airmix door opens completely. You can watch its operation if you remove the glove box and press Warmer and Cooler. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted November 19, 2005 Report Share Posted November 19, 2005 .... It seems like it has something to do with how the HVAC gets its interior temp reading. A couple days ago, it would put out heat, but only when I had the temp set at or above 85 degrees. The passenger side was more like 80 degrees and it would put out heat. So there seems to be something wrong with a temp sensor somewhere, as its different from driver to passanger side. .... I would want to know if any DTCs are set. Pull the codes and be alert to any "B" codes. There is a mind boggling number of motor driven valves controlling the air temperature and movement inside the car. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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